SteveL

GTR's have an oil/water oil cooler fitted standard.

Big ends, etc will probably be the same as other L6 engines - measurement with the crank out will tell the story. Most of the gaskets will also be the same. Head gasket won't be because of the bore size and pistons/rings won't be readily available, I would think. If you get stuck, give me your VIN number and I can identify the genuine PN's for the parts you need and then you can approach your Nissan dealer to get the parts from Japan (be sitting down tho when he tells you the price...)

KEY31GLATL2 02/88 Colour: 2F5 Interior: ?? (not given) VG20DET, GTSV, AT

KRCR32RGFSLMEC 12/89 Colour: TH1 Interior: G RB20DET, HI.2WD, GTST.M, MT.F5

It's missing D-jetronic..... But none of this is relevant.

You've edited your OP but still haven't made it clear what it is your talking about. Clearly not what I was trying to explain.

MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor. In simple terms it measures vaccuum or pressure (from the turbo) in the inlet manifold - it's a measure of engine load. From this the ECU works out how long to fire the injectors to give the correct air-fuel ratio (well along with some other stuff...eg engine temp). It means the injector are all fired together.

Do you mean Bosch D-Jetronic vs L-Jetronic injection systems ?? D-Jetronic uses a MAP sensor to detect engine load and injectors are batch fired once per engine cycle (ie once per 2 engine revs) to give the fuel required for the next combustion cycle. Flow rate of injectors are therefore quite large. This system is found mainly on European cars of the early 70's (eg Volvo, Mercedes). Probably the first mass produced EFI system....but all analogue. L-Jetronic uses an air flow metre (AFM), almost invariably the flap type. Injectors are batch fired twice per engine cycle (ie once per engine rev) each firing giving half the amount of fuel for the next combustion cycle. The L-Jet system is much more common than the D-Jet and pretty much the main stay of EFI systems up until the mid 80's or so when full digital systems started to take off (L-Jet is still analogue). Later versions used oxy sensors and had a form of error code read out. A bit of trivia - 'D' is the first letter of the German word for pressure, while 'L' is the first letter of the German word for air (I think). Hope that helps and was what you were after (there are other detail differences) - if not, sorry to waste your time

PM re GTR spoiler.

Yeh..means the car is 2 wheel drive (in this case rear wheel drive) and has HICAS.

KRCR32RGASLMAA 89/05 Colour: KG1 Interior: G RB20DET, HI.2WD, GTST, AT

They are all the same. I got them through a local bearing supplier for $100 the pair. There was a thread that had the bearing numbers so do a search, but failing that send me a PM as a reminder and I'll post them here.

If the spark plug has literally melted then you could have a serious problem...stating the obvious perhaps but it means it's getting too hot. This can be caused by a number of things - incorrect plug heat range, mixture too lean, pre-ignition - but you should pull the rest of the plugs and check their condition as well. I would recommend having a compression test done to check engine condition....the fact you now have a bad miss could suggest damaged valves (eg burnt due to lean mixture). If possible have a leak-down test done in preference to a compression test, but not all mechanics have the capability. Once you've established engine condition, you need to find out why this happened. If it's just wrong spark plugs then it's an easy fix, although could be something more serious (eg poor fuel delivery, major air leaks).....but it could also be simply that the car was over-boosted and the mixture leaned out. Personally I wouldn't drive the car until I knew what had caused this and had it fixed. Good Luck

As I said......

Sorry but that's just not right.....

The shafts have a groove machined near the inner end that clip locates in to hold the shafts in place. Here's a pic of stock 260Z diff stub axles (drive shafts if you like) and you can clearly see the circlip groove: http://www.ratdat.com/technical/R200_swap/...p/000_0015a.jpg

The clips are inside the diff, not on the shafts. Certainly that's the case with all the long nose R200's I've ever seen, and that's quite a few.

Sounds like chatter. There's an additive you can get that helps overcome this problem, but of course there's no guarantee. I know that Penrite make one: http://www.penrite.com.au/nextpage.php?nav...view.php&id=114 They also have a very helpful technical dept (...no I don't work for them )

Prod: 96/05 Colour: QM1 (White) Interior Colour: K Engine: RB25DET Drivetrain: HICAS 2WD Model: GTS25T/M (actually says 'GTS25TM1' if that's something different ?) Trans: AT F4

Prod: 89/10 Colour: 732 (black) Interior Colour: G Engine: RB20DET Drivetrain: HICAS 2WD Model: R32 GTSt typeM coupe Trans: 5-MT

As I read it just a once only and you have to present some sort of ID at the same time. Presumably they take some details (eg drivers licence number) to prevent using multiple hotmail accts Also the 'certificate' is only valid for a short period (I got mine just now and it expires 4/3). The discount only applies to their 'regular' prices, not on already discounted items on sale in a catalogue.

In general terms the newer the gearbox, the better condition it's likely to be in. The gears themselves are probably similar, strengthwise (size, etc), but Nissan makes 'running' production changes and there are likely to be a detail differences (synchros, etc)......certainly that's true of GTR gearboxes which, apart from the transfer case and shifter mechanism differences, are v similar in design to GTSt gearboxes.

VRS kit comes with all these.......in fact comes with (almost) everything from the head gasket up.

Can you give me any contact details ??...I have a NISMO G-Max twin plate that needs a couple of plates.

I have a genuine Nissan RB25DET VRS kit you can have for $250 (brand new). The only extra bits you get with the full gasket set are: - front crank seal (about $16 for genuine) - rear seal ($50) - oil pick-up o-ring (??) - oil pump gasket (??) [don't think I've missed anything ??] I don't believe you get any turbo gaskets with a 'full' set (except for the ex manifold gasket), and there is no sump gasket (just use 3-bond).