SteveL

I'm afraid this is a gearbox out situation - somethings broken or bent. Since you have another gb and clutch don't waste anymore time on the one in the car just change it over.

Can you get it out of 3rd with he engine off ?? If it's still stuck in gear with engine off it's most likely a gearbox problem.

Interesting....in that case I'd also recommend not using the RB30 pump. The bolt is there for a reason and leaving it out increases the risk of a leak.

No they're not - and I'm speaking from experience. For example R33 GTR pump does not fit R32 GTR without modification (more or less substantial depending on your welding/machine shop abilities). Also RB30E WP has less vanes on the impellor than RB26 type, which means it shifts less water per impellor revolution. I suspect the greater number of vanes on the RB26 WP is due to the increased demands of the water cooled turbos. That said, I suspect an RB30 pump would bolt straight to an RB25 and if people that have done it are reporting no problems then that's a good sign.

Yes they are.

Pm

That's for the turbo->manifold studs. The dump studs have a different PN (at least for R32 GTR's - see my post above). I'll see if I can extract one of the studs tomorrow to check the threads, plus I'll check FAST to see if R34 uses same PN's.

I just checked on the R34 GTR turbos I have - studs are standard M8x1.25 and about 40mm long.

Yes there is, try here: http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/vrne/vrnav....A256B5C00105922

FWIW the part numbers are: turbo->manifold studs: 14064-05U01 turbo->manifold nuts: 14432-0B700 Dump->turbo studs: 14414-17F00 Dump->turbo nuts: 14432-0B700 Note that the nuts used are the same in each case, so the thread will be the same also.

Come to think of it, I'm 99% sure that's not right....the dumps on RB20/25 are attached by M8 bolts/studs, I doubt that RB26 would be any different esp with, I would think, smaller dumps.

Well they could be M10, seems rather big to me. Someone with a GTR turbo lying around should measure it - I can check tonight.

The manifold to head studs are M10x1.25, but the turbo to manifold studs won't be that big (I'd be very surprised). More likely M8x1.25.

FAST doesn't list any such animal.

With the proviso that's it's better to have the VIN of your car (from the Nissan ID plate on the firewall), according to FAST the PN for the fuel filter on your car is: 16400-41B05 Suggests the filter is different to the R32 type.

We've used aluminium oxide and a buffing wheel to polish out minor scratches in glass. It's also what is sometimes used to 'repair' minor scratches in windscreens. It's a very slow process.

I just used the Ryco recommended filter - never had a problem with them in many, many years of use (variety of cars). The OEM R32 GTR fuel filter PN is: 16400-72L00 but this was superceded by PN: 16400-72L05 and that was further superceded by PN: 16400-53J10

According to FAST there is a part called 'STAB-GLASS' for 2 door cars. I assume this is something like 'stabilsor-glass'. Anyway the PN is: 80324-04U00 but that is superceded by: 80324-04U03, but this has s different decription: BRKT STOPER (Bracket Stopper). Can't say whether this is the right part. My GTR's drivers side glass also has scratches.

Sounds like it probably needs to be earthed. Simplest way to check it would be to rig up a power supply and appropriate earth system then dunk the sensor in a pot of boiling water.....if the gauge reads anything other than 100C (more or less), there's something wrong.

I've got S1 turbo with minimal shaft play....$400 and I'll throw in the outlet elbow (hard to find separately). From a car that had done around 60K kms. It's got an aluminium compressor wheel and ceramic turbine wheel (all stock R33 turbo's do.....) I've got a bunch of lines there, so can probably work something out. Please don't ask what's on the compressor....there's a lot of mis-information out there. Did you know turbo's for auto R33's have a different part number to manual cars ??. Anyway I'm in Melbourne.

3.45 is way too tall for an RB25DET......stock R33 GTSt's run a 4.1 diff I believe for manual cars. That is the reason your car is so sluggish. Get hold of a set of 4.1 gears from an R31 Pintara. VL's and locally built R31's use the same model Borg Warner diff.

Bearings are identical between the two, AFAIC, but R32 GTSt gearbox has double synchros on 2nd and 3rd gears - RB30E type uses single synchro on all gears. There are also some gear selector mechanism design differences.

Gearbox bearings for RB20DET/RB30E gearbox are available from CBC and will be in the region of $150, and most likely less (these gearboxes are virtually identical). Just ask them to look up R31 Skyline gearbox - they have catalogues that will list them. Last time I looked there was 3 countershaft and 3 mainshaft bearings. I can dig out the aftermarket PN's for R32/R33 GTR gearbox if there's any interest.

It's really a case of closely checking all the transfer passages, but particularly those where water/oil passages are close together (eg back of the block - the main oil drain).

It would be (very) unusual for corrosion in an L-series block to penetrate an oil passage. If corrosion is a problem, then damage to the head would occur well before it became a problem with the block. I notice they crack checked the head, but was the head checked for corrosion damage ?? A lot of info about the cause can also be gained by examining the head gasket from the original failure (probably not possible now). In particular, the transfer passages at the back of the head (cyl 6) can be problematic if coolant is neglected/not used. The thing to do is to inspect the head for corrosion damage to the transfer passages and carefully overlay the headgasket on the head to see if there are any 'problem areas' - use the block dowels to get the alignment right.