SteveL

As with L-series there are 2 main gallery oil plugs - one at the front of the block and one at the back. The attached photo shows the one at the front. The one at the rear is at a similar location (they blank the same drilling).

All the L-series performance builds I've done over the years have involved replacing the stock pressed plugs for threaded - can't see the point of not removing these and all other plugs before cleaning. I'd note that the same 'rules' applies to heads, AFAIC, but I've found that some RB heads are a bitch to work on on this regard due to the use of ball bearings for plugs.

The important thing to note here is 'race car'. The RB30 pump has less vanes in the same way as the N1 pump so would probably better (at least in that way) on a race car where sustained high rpm would be the norm as opposed to a road car. OTOH, the RB30 pump does not have the anti-cavitation plate which is there for a reason on the N1 pump. In the same way, the RB30 pump has less vanes than the stock RB26 pump and there's no doubt Nissan have done that for a reason - probably differing flow issues - and personally I'd rather stick to the correct type that being the case. That said, if people are not having problems with the RB30 pump that's good, and at the end of the day it's a personal choice.

How does a microscope sound ?? that's right, I've looked that closely....I could put them in our scanning microscope if you like, wouldn't make any difference. I have more experience at this than you can possibly imagine.

It seems that RB26 cam caps do not have markings for alignment - I recently did the valve shims on my GTR and found that was the case. I find this a bit strange as the the RB20/25 heads I've worked on certainly had markings as suggested. It might suggest alignment is unimportant for RB26 engines, but I consider that unlikely given that the cam journals are line bored. I would strongly suggest (very) carefully removing the cam again and closely checking the caps you haven't marked for any fine scratches that might be used to indicate their correct postion (eg compare the contact face of each of the caps with mating face on the head, or look for fine markings on the cam journals that might mate with similar marks on the bore of the cap). At the very least you should back-off the cam cap bolts to see if you can get the cam to move, BUT: - do not force the camshaft - if it doesn't move somethings wrong - do not rotate the camshaft once free (I think you know not to do this) - cam cap bolts MUST be undone and done up in a specific sequence, which is in the workshop manual - it is very easy to have the cam 'bind' at the thrust face - take it slowly and (again) use the cam cap sequence in the WS manual. Good Luck

Pm

There's a difference that makes them non-interchangeable. The GTR shifter has a larger shift bush at it's tip than the RB20 type....GTR shifter won't fit RB20 gearbox and the bushes aren't interchangeable. An exception is the R32 GTS4 gearbox, but that's because it's uses basically the same gearbox as the GTR.

Filters are also available through these guys: http://www.accessauto.com.au/

Thanks, enough there for me to work with. Cheers

Good info....but the images didn't work for me in that Word doc ??

If you mean the 'pipe' that appears to come from underneath the reservoir and loop back behind it, then that's the lead for the reservoir level sensor......mine has that.

Possibly in the glove box or mounted behind and to the side of the driver somehow. Since there's no rear seat there are a number of things that could be done given the extra space.

Mine has ABS.

Interesting....mines definately different - it's black with wires for the fluid level sensor (I thought they all had that.....every stock Jap spec one I've seen has).

Drift warrior or racer, but hopefully mods have been done properly. I'd say ABS, etc have been removed to reduce weight. Engine runs at least (it's running in the last 2 photos). Looks to have a radiator cap on the power steering reservior (???). No fan shroud, which from memory is an unroadworthy item in Vic (?? - well it used to be, but might have changed). No rear seat so you'll have to register it as a 2-seater if you want to keep the cage. Wonder what that box is in front of the battery.....oil coooler. Anyway, good luck with it, looks clean

blind_elk is correct....it is a thermal switch which activates the aircon fan for extra cooling in the event that coolant temp gets too high.

It might simply be that the system has not been bled properly and/or there are blockages in one of a miriad of pipes caused by corrosion. The bubbling suggests you have air pockets or hot spots in the system. I would suggest a complete drain and flush is required (inc removal of the block drain) followed by a careful refill and bleed.

R32 GTR AFM's have the same number as that.

If you have no luck I've got one from an RB25DE Stagea that might do the job. It's a little different to that design but has a similar resonator box. I'm in Melbourne (Ferntree Gully) so your welcome to try it if you like (don't think I'm going to get any other takers )

I'm about to replace the suspension in my R32 GTR with new equipment. Nothing wrong with the old stuff (Bilstein), but I have particular preferences . You can inspect for yourself as the car is on the hoist at the moment and I'm in melbourne. Not quite what your after in one way tho.....you can't have my strut tops as I need them for the new stuff.

Factory manuals wouldn't have it. Predator: I'd be surprised if R32 auto's didn't have some form of cooler.

It's cheaper to do it that way in mass production, plus it allows the tranny fluid to reach operating temp quicker which aids driveability. I've also read somewhere of one manufacturer (toyota from memory) claiming that it reduced emissions by optimising operating temps, etc. It is almost invariably better to disconnect the factory cooler and run a separate air/oil trans cooler. The factory type is small and you can usually fit a larger aftermarket type that gives better cooling all round and will extend trans life. For a standard car the factory cooler will do the job, but boosting engine power or continuous engine load (eg towing) makes fitting an aftermarket cooler mandatory AFAIC. Downsides - finding the space + the trans will take longer to reach operating temp esp in cold climates (eg winter in melbourne)

It's an oil cooler and generally all auto cars have one in the radiator. Yes you can run a separate trans oil cooler - it actually extends the life of the tranny esp if you plan on engine power boosts.

It is very easy to produce a bad result with a compression test not done quite right. Have a leak-down test done before getting too excited. This doesn't make sense. Burning oil = black oily plug. No biggy...gaskets relax with age...re-tighten screws R32GTR tailshaft does not have a centre universal joint....it has a CV joint and some movement is normal because it is rubber mounted. Almost certainly the shift lever boot has perished. Simple job to check and replace. Boot costs about $30. If you don't have any history on the car, timing belt should be one of the first things on the list....recommend doing the water pump at the same time as well as the idler/tensioner bearings. Again, unless you know the cars history, change all fluids (I would do them regardless) Any loose or suspect suspension parts should be repaired/retightened/replaced as required. Close inspection of brake condition is a also a must.

I sent an e-mail to your hotmail acct.....in your OP. Anyway, here 'tis: [email protected]