SteveL

That's apparently the case as of 1 June next year (or was it July ??) If it's your car, apparently not. If it's a hire car or company car, etc then the 'true' owner has the opportunity to seek some compensation. Details are somewhat sketchy.

No, only a police officer (and perhaps an officer of the EPA itself) can report a noisy vehicle. However there's nothing to stop Joe Public taking the number plate of a car and walking into a police station to make a complaint. The police can then investigate. See here: http://www.epa.vic.gov.au/epafaq.asp#s10

They have different PN's according to FAST. It would probably 'fit' the gearbox, but the shape/length is most likely different.

Not sure where the 18 seals number comes from, but on an R32 GTR there are 6 injector-to-fuel rail O-rings and 6 injector tip seals (Nissan calls these 'insulators'). All these are about $6 each from Nissan (trade - that price was valid a few months back when I did mine). The tip seals are also available at injector specialists and they will also have O-rings (of course), but I found that the aftermarket type wasn't 'quite' the right size and that might be why the OP is having trouble with the one's the mechanic supplied. In any event, do them all if anyone is going to the trouble of taking the rail out - a leak in that area is not something you want to live with.......

There's an accessories section under the general index menu. After you type in your VIN, click on the 6th button from left at the top, then select the accessories option at the bottom of the menu that appears. This will bring up all the accessories available for your vehicle (or what was available at the time, anyway). You can also see the entire range of accessories available for a model series by simply typing in the model series number (eg WGNC34) but without entering the serial number of a/the car, and then proceed as described previously. Full part numbers are also available in FAST.....I think I described how to get them in the FAST thread.

2K = 2 door coupe Others as suggested.

Gearbox behind RB30 (R31 Skyline/VL commode) uses the same seal, so yes Repco, etc should have it. A bearing specialist (eg CBC) should also have it and probably be cheaper.

Those small ones in the water passage just under the exhaust manifold are 22mm diameter, the rest are 30mm. Getting it out will be difficult with the manifold, etc in place. Pushing it in, rotating and levering out (as suggested) is the 'usual' way, but be careful as the passage behind is big enough for it to get 'lost'. An alternative is to drill a hole in the centre, screw in a reasonable size self-tapping screw and use that to lever on (but getting a drill in there is easier said than done) Use a (smaller) socket to put the new one in as suggested, but you'll find a surprising amount of force is required given its small size. I use a thin smear of silicone around the outer rim of the new plug to help a little, plus it gives an extra seal, particularly if the bore in the block has been scored removing the old plug (it happens). Of course, get brass replacements and its quite likely the rest if the plugs in the block will be corroded so consider replaceing as many as you can get to esp if you have to remove the manifold, etc.

If they removed the radiator and intercooler, they probably also took out the condensor (which is 'in between'....normally), which would require de-gassing the system. Another possibility is that the wiring hasn't been put back correctly, eg low/high pressure switch at receiver/dryer may not be connected.

Strengthwise, same as RB20DET. Same size, etc.

There's a square drive taper filler plug on the back face of the transfer case 'bulge'.

Anything that gets rid of SMS style short hand can only be a good thing.....

- Engine builder pulled it down. Not really independent, I'm afraid. There are specialists that do this sort of engine failure work, but getting it done is not cheap. I have helped people in the past but it's a bit of a minefield. -These pistons are barrel shaped not tapered. Mahle tech department (distributer) also agreed with the engine builder that clearences are OK, yet still blamed over boosting I'm sure that's the case, but an explanation needs to be found for how wear like that could occur - esp in only 2000k's or so. They DID agree that this was not the case. I'm hardly surprised.... The more we dig into this problem the more we find indicators of a manufacturing issue. Someone has to do the work to prove this for you to have a chance.

You really need to get this analysed by someone independent, preferably without stripping it further 'yourself'. I would make the following observations: - the wear shown in the picture extends ABOVE the max travel of the top ring in the bore (or that's the way it appears). That being the case, the piston/bore clearance measurement you give is meaningless since that was measured at the skirt (ie lower down the bore). To me it suggests abnormal loading of the piston. There also appears to be some evidence of poor/uneven ring seal. - hardness tests (of what ??) prove nothing in terms of detonation. - it would be rare indeed to find anything wrong with the piston material. You will need to show that the pistons were incorrectly/poorly manufactured (ie not 'fit' for purpose) or mis-described in some way by the manufacturer in effect misleading you/the engine builder in terms of your requirements. Good Luck.

17.6V is waaaay too high, assuming your meter is accurate. Anything in the region of 14 to 14.5V is normal. Most likely your regulator is stuffed, but best get things checked. Edit: make sure all your connections are correct.

This suggests somethings not wired up correctly. Check that everythings connected correctly particularly at the wiring near the oil pressure sender.

Actually would probably take me about an hour (less) with a sample of the 'dust' and the remains of the wheel - but note I'm not offering to do it, I really don't have the time, plus I'm a born sceptic

Have you got a picture of the cable ??. My GTR came with a Carozzeria (Pioneer??) head unit and a cable for some sort if bus system that wasn't connected to anything. If that's what you need you cane certainly have it (cheap )

Yes they are.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=44182&hl=FAST

Mine must have been unique then.

Greg you are correct in your description of the early NICS engines, but there was also a red-top ECCS version of the RB20DET which was used in HR31's from about mid 1987. The red ECCS uses a very similar manifold setup to the R32 silver type - in fact it looks largely identical, but there might be detail differences. The (rough) power output of the three types is: NICS - 140kW red ECCS - 150kW silver ECCS - 160kW Probably the main differences between the R32 ECCS and the R31 ECCS is that the R32 used a ball-bearing turbo (R31 used plain bearing) plus the R32 had a more refined engine management system. That said there are probably internal detail differences, but I haven't compared them. To complicate matters somewhat, the silver ECCS engine was also used in some late model Cefiro's, but for some reason the Cefiro version used a plain bearing turbo (like R31's) - well that's what I'm lead to believe, anyway.

4S = 4 door sedan

I use a Bosch LSM-11 sensor in conjunction with a Motec meter. The LSM-11 has been around awhile and is probably getting a bit old now in terms of the technology. Sensor itself was $500+ the last time I bought one, but that was quite awhile ago now. http://apps.bosch.com.au/motorsport/downlo...oxygenlsm11.pdf

I'll be selling my pod filters soon (Apexi Power Intake) and replacing them with an ARC air box. Just waiting on some new filters to turn up from japan. They come with AFM adapters so if your interested......