SteveL

My GTR came into Oz with a high idle and it took me quite awhile to find a crack in that little hose which was 'hidden' by one of its supports. A few dollars at Clark Rubber for some replacment hose and all fixed. Anyway, the hose connects to a fitting right at the backof the manifold close to the head - I think it's actually on the back of the last throttle body and the fitting points towards the firewall. It's quite hard to see, so use a torch and you might have to push some of the cables, etc in that area to one side to get access. Cheers

It's plastic and I believe the same material as the rest of the bar, but it has a different surface finish (rough/textured) compared with the main body.

Part Number is 08513-61697 if you want to try Nissan.

It's a travel limiter for the pedal. There's supposed to be a screw/bolt with a large head in that threaded hole. The idea is to limit unnecessary strain on the throttle system (cable, etc) once the throttles are wide open.

With 71C on the side it's definately not an RB25DET gearbox.....but it could be from an RB25DE, which is physically the same size as an RB20DET gearbox (and RB30E for that matter).

PM re: gear knob

You need to try an aftermarket auto rubber specialist like: http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/ They stock 'generic' rubber moldings sold by the meter and will almost certainly have something to match your old door seals. Scotts is in Vic, but I'd be surprised if there wasn't someone in NSW that does similar. Check the Yellow Pages.

Really need a chassis number to be sure because there are a few variations for R33 GTSt depending on year of manufacture. For cars built between 93 and 96 the 41120-30P25 is valid for the front cals, and 44120-43P26 is valid for the rears. So the ABS kits would be suitable. For R34 GTT the 41120-30P25 is valid for 98-99 cars, but the rear cals have a totally different seal kit PN: 44120-5L326. Again, it would be better to have a chassis number.

Yeh sorry, typo - should have been '33' not '30' Diagram shows one grease seal separate from the bearing. It's also the same deal with 2 different manufacturers and so 2 different PN's: 40232-33P00, NDK brand seal 40232-33P10, NOK brand seal Good Luck. PS - it's better to use the chassis number of the car when searching for PN's in FAST as it's more 'specific'.

According to FAST there are 2 PN's depending on the brand of bearing used by Nissan during manufacture of the car: 40210-30P02 for NSK bearing 40210-30P07 for NTN bearing The bearing's will be the same design in each case, so either should work if you talk to a Nissan parts dept. Also try ringing a local bearing supplier (eg CBC) as they have catalogues that might cross-reference the OEM PN with the bearing manufacturers PN.

No they're not the same. R33 turbo gearbox is physically/dimensionally much larger (and stronger) than the non-turbo version.

S14 caliper kit is 41120-30P26, which is slightly different from R32/Z32 number (26 instead of 25), but also seems to be progression in part numbers that suggests it might be a supercesion (ie seems to follow the normal Nissan pattern for superceded parts). Easiest way to find out would be to ring a Nissan parts department and ask if the -30P25 number supercedes to -30P26. Can't speak for S14, but Z32/R32 GTR rears are the same. Z32/R32 GTR fronts use the same pistons/seals/boots, but the caliper bodies are different - they have different mounting lugs due to the different disc diameters, plus there are detail differences on the outside surfaces (Z32 have ribs, R32 GTR are smooth) Coating would be largely cosmetic, but give some abrasion/corrosion protection. Can't really see it giving much performance benefit.

Hmmm, someones making a killing. Earlier I spoke with Paul at Ferntree Gully ABS where I got my kits and he gave me the following prices: SJ6070 - $53.45 SJ6024 - $77.80 So that's $131.25, which is almost exactly half what you were quoted. Only thing I didn't check was whether GST was included or not. He also confirmed that each kit does an axle set (ie 2 calipers). It is interesting that your prices are almost exactly double. I also had a look at the invoice for the kits I bought and I was charged a fraction over $100, so prices have gone up about 30% based on my original purchase in December 04. Still, $260 is way over the top and you might as well look at genuine kits for those $$. To answer your other points: 1. They don't list R32, but Z32 300ZX uses the same caliper kits and this is where the PN's come from (I have confirmed using FAST). 2. The kits I got are made in Japan (they had little instruction books inside in Japanese), but the boxes had 'Lucas/TRW' on the outside. 3. PBR is basically the brake division of Repco (Precision Brake something-or-other, I think). 4. The PN's I gave are still valid as far as ABS FTG are concerned, go figure. If you want to check out the price for genuine part repair kits, these are the PN's to quote your local Nissan dealer: front - 41120-30P25 rear - 44120-43P26 I think you need 2 of each (ie 1 kit does 1 caliper in this case). My brake master looks brand new and I think it was recently replaced so I didn't bother with it. I can check the PN for the o/haul kit in FAST if you want.

RB engines from the factory don't have a w/pump gasket (same goes for the sump, rear crank seal housing and some others depending on the motor). Sealant is used instead and I'd recommend 3-Bond which is the same spec as the factory sealant. Aftermarket w/pumps sometimes come with a gasket (RB30 types generally do, anyway), but genuine Nissan RB w/pumps don't (because the factory specs sealant instead).

ABS = Auto Brake Service, check Yellow Pages for a local franchise. PN's for the caliper kits are: Front - SJ6070 Rear - SJ6024 1 kit does an axle set = 2 calipers. I paid $100 total for both kits. These kits are to suit R32 GTR calipers which are the same as Z32 as well as R32 GTSt and R33, I believe (I can double check in FAST if needed). Oh and definately take care when using compressed air - only a low setting is needed.

I've just done all 4 calipers on my R32 GTR - new seals and boots. You can get the kits to do front and rear for around $100 through ABS. I posted the kit PN's in another thread sometime back, but will do so again here if needed. The important thing is to ensure the piston bores are clean and there's no corrosion on the pistons themselves. As someone else suggested use fine emery to clean up the outside of the piston (DON'T use emery on the piston bores). Above all make sure everything is absolutely clean. I use compressed air to get the pistons out.

RB26/25/20 all use the same cam belt. Each cam sprocket (gear) has a small impression or 'dot' adjacent to one tooth on the outer rim, plus the cam cover back plate (black pressed metal plate behind the cam gears) has 2 white marks (sort of) near the top bolts - there's one mark for the ex cam and one for the inlet. You may need to clean it to see them, they can be a bit faint. It's just a matter of lining the 'dot' on each of the in/ex cam sprockets with the adjacent white mark and the cams are in their correct position. #1 piston must be at TDC.

The R33 ones I had in my hand a few months ago looked identical to my R32 type. I didn't take any measurements, but were certainly the same material. Perhaps late production cars were similar to R34 (?? - shrug). Anyway the R34 dumps I have now are definately an improvement, no doubt about that.

R32 and R33 GTR's basically use the same cast iron dump pipe design and they are a bit restrictive. OTOH R34's use a thin-walled, welded stainless steel construction which have a larger bore and so flow better - definately an improvement, probably similar to some aftermarket designs.

I need to get a couple of replacement gaskets for the exhaust on my GTR. It's been fitted with a 90mm Kakimoto system from the cat back and uses a 'triangular' 3-bolt gasket at a couple of joints. I've been to a couple of exhaust places and got blank looks...the same with Burson's. Anyone have any suggestions in Melbourne (prefer Eastern Suburbs) ?? Alternatives are exhaust cement or hand cut gaskets (which I've done before, but it's a PITA). TIA

An early version of HICAS was also used on some R31 models.

According to FAST this ECU was fitted to RB20DET powered 4WD R32's (ie R32 GTS4) with auto transmission and HICAS manufactured between 8/89 and 8/91.

They look like R34 turbos (??) - you need to put a price.

R33 GTR N1 block PN is 11000-24U00

July 1991