SteveL

RB30ET gearbox (VL turbo) uses the same yoke as R33 GTSt. Don't know about the Terrano, but Navara with V6 (was there any other ??) should also work. Another option is Z32 300ZXTT yoke.

MAHL is the name of a manufacturer.

Bad news....original R32 GTR type 3rd gear is NLA from Nissan. Same goes for 4th gear. 'Updated' parts are available (same as late R33 GTR...approx mid-96 on from memory), but to fit to R32 GTR gearbox requires replacing a whole bunch of other parts. Bottom line is.....are you sitting down ??......$1900 (and that's trade !!!!). You could go secondhand.....$800-$1000+. Other option is a brand new R33 GTR gearbox from JustJap for $3200. Of course that will also use a pull type clutch.... Good Luck

I recently sent a part to a forum member in Scotland. Used AusPost/International AirMail and it wasn't cheap ($40) for only a relatively small part. Hate to think what coil-overs would cost, but you might want to ask about surface mail options. You could also get a quote from FedEx or DHL. You'll have to have the weight and package dimension details handy.

Not all steels are magnetic. It's possible they have been manufactured using austenitic stainless steel, which is non-magnetic. But it's also possible it's been manufactured using a nickel based super alloy (eg Nimonic)....such materials are common in high temp turbines and similar.

All R32 and R33 GTSt's are fitted with a plumb-back BOV from the factory.

Pods are not a roadworthy issue, so the RW guy wouldn't give them a second look. I spoke with a Vicroads engineer (NOT a desk drone) about pods and he said Vicroads arn't interested in them because "....they are not an engineering isue". However he went on to say that the EPA would definately be interested and to check with them. I have a stock BOV somewhere if you want to borrow it. If your piping is non-standard tho you might have trouble fitting it (it's a plumb-back type).

Try here: http://www.dotars.gov.au/transreg/str_sevs.htm Also do a search on these forums.

interested...check your PM

In Vic the rule is one intake mod only....POD or FMIC, but not both UNLESS the car came stock with an FMIC (eg GTR) in which case you can have a pod as well, but the FMIC must be stock standard. Enclosing the pod doesn't matter, the above still applies. Also there's no permit you can get that will change this. It seems that you can get a permit in other states.

Yes, I should have mentioned that DOTARS have indicated on their website that there's (in effect) a possibility that 1990 model cars may not be given import approval, so there's certainly a risk as you say

If they are here already they must have had import approval from DOTARS so there is no problem. Those that have already paid for 1990 model cars should also be OK.

I just spent an almost 2 hours in traffic on the Burwood Hwy - gave up and went home.

Hmmm.....sorry, but I'd be very concerned about that amount of packing on one strut on a largely road-going car. I've done some racecar and road car suspension 'tuning' (corner weighting, etc), but that amounted to 5mm at most. 25mm suggests something more serious.

You may be right, but I think you'll find that the current 15yo scheme is a set of regulations which probably only require ministerial approval to change. That is, the department draws up the 'new' regulations in accordance with the legislative framework (Motor Vehicle Act), but they only require the ministers signature on the doc, not full parliamentary approval.

**edit** scratch that, you've already said you had to adjust one of your new coil overs to compensate. The spacers look like they've been roughly cut from sheet and I can see longer mounting studs on the top of one of the struts.

Visual inspection isn't really good enough.....doesn't take much of a bend to cause poor seating. Valve head run-out should be checked, or at least the quality of the valve/valve seat seal should be checked using bearing blue (or similar).

Not good. Somethings bent, either chassis or suspension. One things certain - it didn't come from the Nissan factory like that..... I worked at a panel beaters many years ago and saw similar things done with radius rods to 'compensate' for front end damage. My brother's been a panel beater/mechanic for 30 years so I'll ask his opinion. First thing you need to do is put the car on a hoist and very closely inspect all the rear suspension parts and rear subframe mounts - as well as all the chassis joints and panels at the rear of the car - for signs of damage. Also take out all the boot trim, spare wheel, etc so that you can inspect the shock towers and all the internal panels. The only certain way to check the chassis is to use a chassis alignment jig, but that requires stripping a lot of the car, and would be a last resort.

The crucial word in the above is 'experience', but I'm not explaining all that again.... not at all

DOTARS don't seem to care much about mods on >15yo cars, but when it comes to compliancing and roadworthy it's a very different matter. I can't speak for other states, but in Vic a separate engineering inspection and report would be required for the non-standard engine. Edit: just realised...are you talking about a car you will have owned while OS for >12months ??. I still think DOTARS won't care as long as it's >15yo, but local rego authorities might still take an interest in the non-standard engine.engine.

I had a similar problem with the passenger door lock on my R32 GTR. The mechanism looked normal, but close inspection showed that it had 'split apart' a few mm near where the lock rods attached. This had allowed some of the internal mechanism to come adrift and of course it didn't work properly. New mechanisms are still available through Nissan, but have to be ordered from Japan (2 week wait) and are $200+. I ended up sourcing a good secondhand one from an SAU member.

From memory R32 is about 1500kg. R33 is a bit heavier, 1550kg or so.

Try a little comprehension, as well as practice at quoting.'nuff said BTW, it's 'SteveL'

Don't tell me....tell him, that's my point. Nowhere did I say you were lying, but what I am saying is that if you (and others) are going to continue to 'bag' brokers - who, in my view, provide a legitimate service - then you are going to have to provide viable alternative(s) AND considerable detail about those alternative(s). Yes you've provided some websites and that's a start, but now you need to explain the process as a whole in a substantial way. At the end of the day, you have the experience and the contacts, but many don't (as that link I posted clearly showed) - so you have to cater for the lowest common denominator.

OK ylwgtr2, DRIFTT, LegnumVR4, et al opportunity knocks: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=62838 That guy is talking about using a broker, so why don't you jump in and save him $1000?? Seeing as its all so easy, shouldn't take up much of your time. Better yet, why not make it an SAU donation exercise (ie instead of him paying $1K to the broker, he donates $100 to SAU after you guys help him get the car). Go for it......