SteveL

I assume you mean DOTARS ?? - they accepted a photocopy the fax of my de-reg paper so you'll be fine.

Genuine Nissan standard R33 GTR water pumps are $120....trade (that price was obtained between Christmas and new year), so I find your figure for the R33 N1 pump a little hard to believe, but I will check with my supplier tomorrow. The price for the genuine R32 GTR N1 pump is indeed $320+, but that being the case ocean's price is not necessarily unreasonable given that: - it will bolt up to an R32 GTR engine without any (undetailed) mods; and, - it will suit someone that can't afford a new pump and doesn't have the ability to perform said mod(s).

bump RB25 one would also do the job.

Pictures not good quality, but everything looks OK. If it's a genuine belt it should be fine...if you like I can duck out and check the width of my belt as I've got the top cover off at the moment.

Per sub. Prefer Melbourne, but also look interstate if the price is right PM or e-mail [email protected]

Are you sure you haven't got the 'cover' (like a large thin washer ??) backwards ?? It will rub on the belt if it's not installed the right way round .....

Nothing was missing from my car.

Anything like that will help (my e-mail below). I've downloaded the manual for my HU from the Pioneer Japan website but it's all in Japanese of course , still there's enough pictures included for me to work out most things.

Well yes, but I don't actually have a stacker at the moment. I want to be sure it will work before I buy, thus the reason for the original q

Thanks guys....some of what your talking about is a bit like decyphering Japanese to me but can I assume that p-bus and ip-bus are similar interchangeable, etc ??

The L28E would have better low-down torque, so better off the line. I vaguely remember that there wasn't a great deal of difference in power output between the L28E and L20ET, in stock form. Of course the advantage of the turbo is that it is easily boosted..... The vast majority of L28E's were saw in Oz are pretty asthmatic, but there were a few 'higher spec' engines brought in by engine importers and mainly found their way into 240Z/260Z, plus some early Skylines, etc. Just keep the L28 and turbo it

Never worked on one, but I've been told they are set up 'hard' in stock form.

Based only on the number of plates, it sounds like it's been shimmed tight. In standard form there are a total of 6 plated either side of the spider carrier. But it's important to note that it's not just a question of the number of plates, but the thickness of some of the plates as well. It would have been better if you'd measured the break-away torque before disassembling the centre. In stock form Nissan factory mechanical LSD's have quite a low break-away torque (only around 30ftlb). Normally we add one plate which brings that up to at least 80ftlb. Measuring the break-away torque is relatively simple, but you need access to good torque wrench, plus some sort of adaptor to the stub axles. Probably best to get someone to do it if you don't have the experience.

There's no 'TT' or 'DE', it's just RB26 XXXXXXX The engine number is stamped on a pad just forward of the oil filter.

New ??, haven't looked lately but certainly $1K+ Secondhand - depends on condition, not to mention what buyers will pay . Someone was selling an R32 LSD diff (complete) here recently and wanted $500 - don't know whether it sold or not. Your diff seems to have 'problems' from what you've said (sorry, maybe I've read wrong), so that affects the price.

Pics worked fine for me, but they are certainly big Looks like a clutch centre LSD, but the pics of ends of the pinion carrier don't have the appearance of a Nissan centre (sorry, hard to explain) - possibly something from an aftermarket manufacturere (eg Kaaz or similar). Anyway, definately a clutch pack LSD.

A couple of possibilities: - broken or damaged 1st/2nd shift fork. If your lucky may just be a broken roll pin. - failed/damaged/collapsed countershaft bearing(s) First thing to do is to pull the gb oil drain plug and check the magnet. Lot's of steel bits/shavings suggests bearings or possibly a gear/selector ring. No or not many steel bits suggests selector fork (it's an aluminiumk alloy casting). Either way your looking a stripping the gb.

As long as you are keeping the same gearset (ie 'just' changing the centre) it is 'just' a matter of setting up the correct CWP running clearances and side bearing pre-loads - BUT unless you have the right equipment and experience this is something best left to the experts. That said, swapping a short nose R200 centre into a long nose R200 diff presents some extra 'special' problems related to design changes that Nissan made between the two types.

The gearbox input splines are the same, but I don't know whether it would work. Also you would need to be sure of the condition of the GTSt parts.

Yes it is, the clutch slave cylinder mounts in a different position. Also there's a different front cover used to accomodate the changed operating mechanism.

My R32 GTR came in from Japan fitted with a carozzeria MEH-P9000CD head unit which work fine (needs a band expander, of course). The japanese owner had taken out the CD stacker from under the passenger seat, but the wiring is still all there. I basically only listen to CD's, so I'm wondering whether I can just plug in a pioneer cd stacker - although if anyone has a suitable carozzeria unit lying around.... TIA

R33 GTSt uses push type clutch as standard, but R33 GTR is pull, I believe. I think there are kits you can buy that convert a push type to a pull type.

I indicated in another thread....it has been done, but unless you have access to accurate equipment and are a competant machinist (or know someone that is), plus have lot's of time and patience AND have experience at setting up diffs (or know someone that does), your better off not attempting this.

Note that the R32 RB26 ignitor is the same as the R32 RB20DET type (they have the same part number), so don't let them get away with charging you more just because it's for an RB26.

PM re: the clutch