SteveL

Pm

Customs would require some sort of proof of what you paid for the car, eg an invoice. But they have various methods of working out the value, see here: http://www.customs.gov.au/site/page.cfm?u=4371

CA 31 -022884 Model: RCA31GYEDM5 Prod M/Y: 9012 Colour: 732 (black) Sedan RB20D 2WD HICAS Nashi (??) AT.F5 (5 speed auto ??) CA 31 -754597 Model: RCA31GASJ6 Prod M/Y: 9004 Colour: KH2 Sedan RB20DT 2WD HICAS Nashi (??) FA (FWD auto ??) There's probably more but I'm still learning this software.

It's possible it could have been damaged or the pump failed and it was easier to remove rather than fix due to the expense involved. Of course there are all sorts of more sinister possibilites as well........ Getting a replacement in terms of OEM parts is likely to be v expensive, even if they are still available (I'd say unlikley). Considering the cooler was only offered on the 100 Oz spec GTR's I'd say the chances of finding one S/H are pretty small as well....perhaps try Gibson motorsport (I think they were the one's that built the original Grp A race cars ??). I suspect fittng an aftermarket unit would be a more viable option. I have a feeling I know who you bought the car from and if you want to confirm via PM I can make some 'discreet' enquiries through some contacts.

1987 HR31 GTS turbo coupe, ECCS RB20DET engine, 140,000kms, runs perfectly. Original black paint and perfect original interior. Currently an auto, but almost all needed parts supplied to convert to manual, inc R32 turbo 5-speed gearbox. Other features: - fitted with R32 roller bearing turbo - full 3" ex system from turbo back, inc 3" high-flow cat - Racing Hart rims - Boost Gauge - Electronic Boost controller - chipped ECU (unmodded spare ECU also provided) - projector headlights (standard headlights also included) - Auto Spoiler - New HD springs and shocks recently fitted - Front end completely re-built (new bushes and ball joints) - new Sony head unit - Alarm System RWC will be suppled with the car which requires a new set of tyres (included in sale price). Currently registered until Jan 05 and obviously a negotiation point. A number of spare parts are also included, a list of which will be provided to serious buyers (Note: spares will not be sold separately unless the buyer doesn't want them...unlikely). Including the manual conversion parts, I estimate the spares I'm including are worth about $2000. Asking $9500 for everything. I have some pictures which I can post to interested parties. Prefer contact via email: [email protected] or phone: (03) 9626 7525 (BH) (03) 9758 0593 (AH)

This is an old thread, but what the hell... From February 1993, according to the FAST software.

Yes, made by Nissan in the same factory in Japan. If you want one I've got one in Melbourne.

knock sensors

Got one...$80+ship

The white line says genuine belt to me as they have a few marks like that to help set cam timing. The aftermarket ones (Dayco, etc) generally don't. Given the k's and the 'unknowns' about the odo reading if it were my car I'd replace it just to be sure, plus I'd also replace the water pump.

Mines mounted vertically just behind the grill near the aircon receiver/dryer. But I've noticed that whoever installed it has pushed the power steering cooler tube forward slightly and a bracket has been rubbing on the back of one of the intercooler tubes and may have pierced it I/m going to have to pull the IC out to check out the damage.

Problems with 5th/reverse in the 'small' Nissan 5-speeds is usually a sign the main shaft nut has come loose - very common problem. Simple fix, but requires extension housing to be removed.

Again this says something is shorted in the starter or in the starter wiring. As well as the heavy cable from the battery to the starter, there should be a single small wire connected to the starter solenoid. That little wire provides power to activate the starter motor when you turn the key to 'start'. With the motor running, try pulling that small wire off the starter. If the noise goes away, the problem is with the wiring to the starter, but if it's still noisey with the wire disconnected the problem is with the starter motor itself. I'd guess your problem is with the wiring since you had a fire, perhaps somethings note re-wired correctly If the solenoid is jammed on for whatever reason, the starter pinion will remain 'permanently' engaged with the ring-gear teeth. The noise would be a bit like a loose gear in a gearbox, changing pitch with rpm. When you turn the starter on with the engine running, the starter solenoid trys to throw the starter pinion (or gear) into engagement with an already moving set of teeth on the ring gear. The chances of them engaging correctly are very small and more often than not you get that high pitched 'scream' as the gears clash - quite a different sound.

JustJap have new GTR and GTSt gearboxes list on their site for $3200.

This suggests to me that the starter pinion is still engaged with the ring-gear teeth. That would certainly make some unusual noises. Also could get quite hot as (of course) it's not meant to be like that, but could also explain the smell. Could be the starter solenoid is partly jammed on, or is shorted somehow. Usually when that happens, the +ve cable from the battery starts to get quite 'warm' after awhile as it is continually carrying current with the solenoid shorted. Anyway, I'd suggest disconnecting the battery and removing the starter motor to check it out - either by yourself or an auto elec.

Car would be under warranty, so he should follow whatever NIssan recommends (which is presumably what the Nissan mechanics are doing). OTOH, changing the oil earlier should no affect warranty as long as Nissan oil specs are followed (I would also make sure they are happy with that tho, and have it all recorded in the log book). The 350Z was primarily designed for the USA market and long service intervals are mandated for cars sold in there (but it must be said that long intervals are also specified for recent model Commodes and Falcans). My wifes 1998 RAV4 has a 10,000km specification for oil changes, but I change it every 5000km.

In the last week or so I've stripped an R32 GTR gearbox for inspection of a 3/4 gear selection problem. I've worked on a lot of the 'smaller' design Nissan gearboxes (early Z's and Skylines, etc), but not an RB25DET type, although I have had one side-by-side with the GTR 'box and they are very similar. I'd say the internals are also very similar. Bearings for the shafts in a GTR box are about $250 from a bearing specialist....probably about double that from Nissan. I don't think the guy who wrote the above has actually seen the inside of one of these gb's - there is no bolt for the output shaft (main shaft ??). Parts are pressed together and controlled thickness snap or 'c' rings are used to set running clearances. Apart from needing to use a variaty of pullers and a shop press, I found the GTR gearbox to be one of the easiest to disassemble I've ever come across. Can't really comment on this one, I would need to see some examples of the damage. The description in that link is actually for an R32 GTSt gearbox which is an example of the 'smaller' design Nissan gearboxes I mentioned earlier, but it really has little relevance to the R33, etc design. The R32 gearbox does use nuts on the main and lay shafts, like all similar size Nissan 6-cyl gb's going right back to 240Z's. The mainshaft on these 'small' gearbox's are notorious for coming loose and causing 5th gear problems (usually jumping out of 5th gear is a sign of the problem). But as I said above the larger GTR style (and probably R33 GB) does not use any nuts or bolts on the main or layshafts. I can e-mail you a zipped copy of the R32 GTR WS manual, but it's 20+ MB so if your on dial-up it could be a problem.

These are good consistant numbers. I wouldn't get too concerned about the absolute values as most aftermarket compression gauges simply aren't well calibrated.

No, the one for the RB25 head/RB30 block should fit. It's listed somewhere in the conversion thread.

Sorry to ressurect this but it IS possible to get full part numbers using the FAST software. Once you know the part code (the first 5 digits of the full PN), it's reasonably simple, although I suspect there may be a little more to it than what I've found so far. If you don't know the part code, you need to navigate to the relevant parts illustration to find it - I'm not going into it here as others have decribed it earlier (and it's worth trying for yourself anyway to get familiar with the system). Anyway using the timing belt example (below), go to the initial FAST window and make sure the model series at least or VIN are entered. In this case use R32 or (as I did) your VIN. Now go to the 'Part Code....Qty....Part No' Line and click on 'New', then go to the 'Part No' field and enter the first 5 digits of the PN (ie 13028). The system should automatically enter a dash after the 8. Now click on 'New' again and a window should pop up with some info about the part (but not the PN....yet). Click once in the blank 'Ord.Qty' box to 'order' one belt (or click as many times as you want for the number of belts you need) - that number should appear in the box. Highlight and backspace to delete quantity. Either hit F5 or go to the 'Tool' menu and select 'P/No Search'.......voila, the PN appears along with a bunch of other stuff in the original 'FAST' window. There's also 2 new buttons in that info list - one gives basic model info, the other gives superceded parts info, if applicable. Well, it worked for me....

My GTR is with Gary at the moment being done. Quoted cost is $1070, but I'm going to ask for a discount as I ended up supplying my own cat as well as paying to have it fitted elsewhere. He must run the place under a couple of different business names, cos the sign at his factory actually has the business name 'Japtralia'. Phone # is 9837 5771.

Was the test done with the engine at operating temp, or cold. If it was done cold these results are pretty meaningless.

Yeh I forgot about the taxis I suspect the V8 guys just use something like 8 Motec lambda monitors built into a single box, multiplexed in some way. [Edit] before I get jumped on, Autronic probably do something similar.

None that I'm aware of, but maybe this is a trick question....... Motec M800 is arguably the most advanced aftermarket EMS on the market. It will do DFI on 6-cyl engine out of the box, but CDI is a separate box from Motec. M800 will do up to 8 injectors sequentially with full current control. One (expensive) way to do 12 would be to use two M800 EMS in parallel - this has actually been done to run a RR Merlin aircraft engine in the States. I don't know of any EMS on the market that does 6 lambda sensors using a single ECU, although I suspect F1 engine builders have highly specialised systems like that for development purposes as do possibly the major car manufacturers.

Your public profile notes you are a 'vehicle importer', so that probably puts some of these comments in context. At the end of the day the public (or the 'enthusiasts' for which you have such obvious disdain) should have a wide range of choices, but these alleged changes are clearly designed to limit supply and choice..... Anyway, enough of this, I got my car through a broker and am glad I did. It's unfortunate that others may not have the same opportunity. End (for me).