SteveL

PM

Is that an R32 or R33 GTR half cut?? Edit: Sent you a PM.

Oil pressure in RB's is controlled by the by-pass spring (and plunger) in the oil pump. It's possible the plunger is sticking, but to check requires removing the sump, but would be unusual. You say it was cold....but was the engine cold ??, and what grade oil are you using ??

It's normal...with the engine idling turning the steering wheel causes increased pressure in th PS fluid system and puts load on the pump. That load is transferred to the engine, which causes the idle to drop. R32's have an extra pressure sensor in the front PS lines that tells the ECU to bump up idles in situations like this (a bit like the air conditioner fast idle switch). R33's might be different, however.

Don't rely on the factory gauge for absolute values, it is only a guide. Your varying readings could be due to electronic 'glitches' (eg corroded/poor/loose electrical connections ) or a fault in the gauge or sender. Best thing to do if your concerned is get hold of an accurate (preferable calibrated) mechanical OP gauge and do some tests using that. The gauge could be plumbed in at the oil pressure sender using a 'T' adaptor.

Thanks...I'm really pleased with what I've got. Sure there are a few minor dents here and there, and the clutch needs replacing, but overall I've got little to complain about

Well my compliance hasn't gone smoothly either. Rang the engineer on Thursday to check progress only to be told they couldn't finish the job as they didn't have the equipment required to modify the exhaust to fit the cat. To cut a long story short, my car had no cat at all as it arrived from Japan, just a full 3" system from the down pipes to the rear muffler. To fit a cat requires some fairly major surgery to the system and they didn't have the equipment...fair enough. On the upside, the engineer is happy for me to fit a 3" high flow cat, so I've organised to get one early next week from BATMBL (member of this forum) and the car is booked into MIDAS next Wednesday to do the work. The engineer is also very happy with the condition of the car and it should breeze through for the certificate. I'm also happy as I got to get a close look at the underside of my car while it was up on a hoist and everything is very straight, with no signs of rust or any rail or other body damage

Helmets can be had for as little as $65 these days (old saying...$65 helmet for a $65 head ). A 'brand name' helmet (eg Shoei) will probably set you back $300+. Any motorcycle shop will have a range available. Whatever you buy, make sure it has the Australian Standard (AS1698) sticker on the outside or identified somewhere in the lining. I think by law now helmets sold in Oz must meet that standard. If you get a helmet with visor, the visor should also have AS approval markings (sticker, whatever). Try on a few different helmets and make sure the one you get is comfortable, but tight....the lining 'crushes' slightly with use and if you get one that's loose to begin with it may not fit well after awhile (and may not do its job properly).

Yeh it's not exactly clear from the app docs, but DOTARS issued an advisory late last year which states: • Vehicles 15 years or older must be at least 15 years old at time of making an application. For example if the vehicle is manufactured in the month of November 1988, then an application cannot be made until November 2003. Here's a link to the original Word doc: http://www.dotars.gov.au/transreg/vsb/15_y...ar_vehicles.doc That said some people have been successful with their applications going in early.

Yeh I paid for a cover but no sign of it as well....I think once you get the car into a dry garage the mould should die and turn powdery which can easily be vac'd, plus with the weather warming up it should speed the process. Only problem then might be staining. Bad luck about the wheels, hopefully just a case of mistaken identity and they'll either turn up or you'll get compensated.

yeh, yeh...typical....anything for a buck :)

Cheers - let me know when your ready. My braided lines have an 'Earl's' label on them, but they won't have the appropriate ADR markings which will be the problem...

Maybe we can do a 'rotation' on your rubber ones Greg - my GTR has braided lines so I'll need to get some rubber ones to pass RWC as well..... What did ENZED want to make them up ??

I have seen a few (very few) fuel injected C210's in Melbourne, but the vast majority were carb'd. If these were imported by Nissan for official sale it was late in the piece, probably just before the R30 was introduced in 1982. In other markets the EFI C210 was sold well before that. The factory parts book for the C210 shows that EFI was used as early as 1978 in the English/European market, and its probable that the Japanese domestic market got at least the same. In Australia the first Nissan model to get EFI 'officially' was the 280ZX in 1978. As far as I'm aware, the first Nissan model to get EFI was the 280Z in 1975, although that was a USA only vehicle.

Congrats...did the paint damage occur when the car was in storage ?? You need to change your profile from "89 gtr soon" to "gtr=owned!!"

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=36655

What's the definition of an expert......as to it being wound back, you'd have to admit it's also possible the buyer got a good buy and couldn't care less - only he/she will know in the end.

Great to see you've still got such a positive attitude even after all that time and money.....by comparison the few day extra wait I had pales into insignificance.

Hope it turns up on time - believe me, any extra wait is a real pain. It seems from what you say your car has already been through Customs/AQIS inspection, etc. It's interesting how things happen differently in different States - absolutely nothing was going to happen with my car until the B/L arrived, but not a word about a/c requirements and certainly no fees (yet........). My car is going through compliance at the moment, it's pretty standard, so I don't think there will be any problems.

Ahhh sorry...didn't realise there was damage, hope it works out OK and not too expensive . Your the guy with the errant oil cooler hoses - I was one of the guys that scrutineered your car :wavey:

Who's R34 (GTT ??) spun on the last corner and ended up facing the wrong way at pit entry ?? It was late in the day. I came around that corner to be 'confronted' by that car....I think we had a good look at each other, LOL (nothing dangerous, but an interesting situation).

Accordng to the factory WS manual it uses "Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special" At a pinch you could use ATF.

I've got a complete rear cradle with drive shafts (but no diff) you can have for $100. I'm in Ferntree Gully. [email protected]

Check your mail

Thanks I might see if I can confirm this with Ice Perf as I have an RB25 flywheel in the garage.