SteveL

If the LSD is working (at all) both wheels should turn together....on an open diff they will turn in the opposite direction because that is the nature of the mechanism. The ONLY way this won't happen (either case) is when something else is preventing it (eg brake pad drag).

What you say about the wheels suggests either its not an LSD, or the LSD is stuffed.

Ahhh...no....not true....and I'm speaking professionally, as a metallurgist:)

Why ??....horses for courses AFAIC, SS is more likely to last esp behind a turbo - you can't just generalise and say that MS is the best way for everyone as every situation will be different. It worked for you and that's good, but since the cost diff for the SS over MS that BATMBL was offering was only about $70 (compared to $150 for the same things from F/Perf), I'd pay the diff to get SS every time.

Pretty much impossible to tell from a photo, but the finned cover suggests it might be a viscous LSD. Try jacking up the rear end (both wheels off the ground), then turning one wheel - if the other wheel turns in the same direction, then you have an LSD, but if it turns in the opposite direction it is an open diff (probably - i've seen completely stuffed LSD's act in the same way as an open diff). RC45 says you have an R200 diff with 4.5 gears.

Yeh, but that price is for mild steel and they want $500 for the SS version.....BATMBL's price was only around $350 for the SS version

I've PM'd him so hopefully will find out what's going on....if that deals gone tho, JMS have SS dump pipes for $350: http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/partsinstock.htm or combined dump front pipes for $325: http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/partsinstock4.htm [doesn't say whether they're SS tho...probably not]. I was really after the cat too

Well, I was about to say have a look at a thread in the FS section....but it's gone !!. To cut a long story short, a member (BATMBL) was offering dump/front pipe combos in SS for around $350 or so (as I said, threads gone so not totally sure). Unless the mods have deleted it for some reason (maybe, dunno) then can only assume he did that himself. If that's the case probably means he can't get them anymore......which will be a shame if true, cos I was after one myself

Perhaps a long shot, but PRIMO (Phil) of Direct Imported is in Japan right now getting bits for people. Have a look at this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=13767 His mobile number is there. Note that he's getting me a pair of GTS-X doors so don't see why struts would present a problem...

Umm, the VG30DET size has been answered elsewhere, I think, but it's a T3. VG30DETT turbos are T25's I think, but, after all, each only has to supply 1.5L.....

That's a VG30DET turbo, probably BB from the core size. It's a T3 and those engines make about 190kW in stock form. PS. How much could your mate get an RB25DET turb for shipped to Oz:)

On late RB25 motors, Nissan did away with the trans pack on the back of the head, but instead incorporated the transistors into the coil packs (ie one trans per coil pack). I don't know what the changeover date is tho....

PM

Could you please send pics to: [email protected] Thanks

You might try posting here as well: http://www.r31skylineclub.com/forum/ Price would also be good

No

I have an RB20DE PS pump if it's the same (??)

I've been told that Nissan rods generally have a design limit of about 100HP (per rod). This came from an engineer who worked for Nissan when they manufactured cars here (80'/early 90's). However, the real weak point of a conrod is not the rod itself, but the rod bolts.

This lot was also advertised more than 3 months ago: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...=&threadid=4352 ...I tried to do business via PM's, but, well, put it this way...I bought and xbox.... Hope this bump gets you a response

Are you sure it's wired correctly ?? - one of the TPS functions/connectors is just an on/off switch (to tell the ECU when the throttle is closed and sometimes also WOT), the other is a variable resistor usually only used with auto's but late R33's may be different.

What TPS are you using ?? (ie Wolf supplied, etc).

It'll work, but adapting it will take a bit more effort. Would certainly be easier if you could get that 2-bolt supply line....

Yeh, VG30ET (Z31) and RB30ET turbs are T3's and almost identical, but VG30DET is more like RB2x turbos in design (but bigger), ie doesn't have the 2 bolt oil line attachment, etc....

What you've got there is a T3 from a VL turbo (RB30ET) , not VG30.....

I use t-bolt clamps which are available in stainless from places like Blackwoods in Mt Waverley. They are designed for heavy duty clamping of hoses and most importantly are designed so that they won't damage the hose. Here's a (small) picture of one: http://www.blackwoods.com.au/product_detai...&black_found=No They come in a range of sizes and aren't that expensive (maybe $15-$20 depending on the size). If you go to the Blackwoods site and search their catalogue for 'clamp t-bolt' you'll get a listing of sizes and PN's: http://www.blackwoods.com.au