SteveL

Pm

YHM re: tailshaft.

There's no spectator charge (unless things have changed dramatically.....doubtful) and the entry fee for PI is around $100.

Give me a few days I may be able to work out something....

Mate, I'll take the brake master and booster if you'll COD/post to Melbourne. Definately sold if you will. Also interested in the rack. PM or e-mail me to work out details: [email protected]

Hope you've got your entry in and accepted....MSCA PI events are always over-subscribed.

A good original car with no rust, a straight body and a very good interior (at least) your looking at $10K+. If it is a low body number with some unique early features ('240Z' on the rear quarters, vents in the rear hatch, etc) then you could just about name your own price.... An 'average' car with minimal rust and some mods is probably going to command a price in the $5-$10K range (depending on rust and mods). Really rough cars will be <$5K, but require a lot of work. That said, I've seen some fairly decent cars go for only a few $K, but they are getting few and far between. Also, the prices seem to vary considerably between states.

Easier with the motor out, also there's a plug at the back of the block that can't be reached without taking off the gearbox and clutch.

I have a radiator for a DR30, inc factory twin thermo fans. All in VGC. But I'm in Melbourne.

One plug is the reverse switch (closest to the front of the gearbox). The other is a switch to tell ECU when the gearbox is in neutral or 5th gear (I can't remember which off hand). Shouldn't affect anything greatly if its disconnected and won't be the source of the shudder, which sounds like it's related to the clutch itself.

I have a good silver top RB20 head in the garage, if you want it. I'm in Melbourne (FT Gully). [email protected]

I've 'sort of' figured out most of it from just playing around. It's fitted to my car and 'seems' to be working OK, but 'fuzzy' logic devices can 'learn' your engine characteristics (probably fairly crude), so they need some running time to adapt to your engine, and I haven't had the time to do much more with it. What I can tell you is this: - the unit needs to be connected to a constant 12V source (ie direct to the battery, NOT switched on/off via ign switch). The controller senses engine running or not via it's inbuilt MAP sensor, so switchs itself on/off accordingly. Otherwise you loose your settings each time. - The 'WN' switch on the side of the unit sets 'wide' and 'narrow' boost control ranges, and the pot near it (white knob) is a further 'fine tuning' control within each range. This is NOT the boost control range of the unit itself (eg 0.5-1.5 bar) but the characteristic response of the controller at the set boost level. For example, setting a narrow control range will force the controller to give a 'hard' cut at the set level, but a wider range will allow some over-shoot and give a 'softer' transition for the waste gate. I suspect this setting is to provide for different types of wastegates/turbo/engine/driver characteristics. . - the PS switch seems to allow a 'normal' and 'inverse' operation of the wastegate solenoid. In one direction (can't remember), the controller operates the solenoid 'closed', while in the other it operates it 'open'. Again, this just seems to be to allow for different types of wastegate/turbo, etc. The LED on the display you mention is simply an on/off indicator for the controller, ie when 'on' the LED indicates that boost control is in operation, when 'off', no control is in effect other than via the factory wastegate. I can hear the solenoid on my controller 'clicking' when I turn the unit on/off that way. Of course, how the solenoid is connected to the wastegate, and the position of the PS switch, is critical to correct operation of the controller Thanks for the info on the green wire, that was one that had me puzzled. The '00' setting is the other one that has me beat....can't seem to change it and not sure what it's for. Other than that, my unit seems to work, but I haven't been able to acheive consistant boost control results with it. That may be due to the need for the sytem to 'learn' more, but anyway. As to the 'mines thing, might well be, but no one has been able to get me a manual. Someone on another list was kind enough to translate the Japanese writing based on the pictures I posted. Wasn't a huge help, but better than nothing.

All the loom plugs are totally different for the R32's compared to the R31's...there's no way the NICS ECU would plug into a standard R32 loom.

No problem...good luck with it. Out of interest, what do they want for new ones ?? I assume that's from Nissan ??

The most likely cause would be over-charging...you should have the output of the alternator checked at a range of rpm's, not just at idle. Most auto-elecs will do this sort of check quite cheaply. Oh, BTW, I have some (4) series 2 coil packs for sale. Work perfectly, $150 for the 4 I'm in Melbourne

I've got one in Melbourne.

I don't know, but I doubt it....need to find someone with better electronics knowledge.

4 left.....

If he needs the series 2 type i have 4 left: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=28362 I'm in melbourne.

If you have a viscous LSD centre then you can use an 'ordinary' diff oil. OTOH, LSD diff oil should be used if you have a mechanical LSD (clutch centre, etc). If you not sure, use an LSD oil...the difference in price is hardly worth worrying about and certainly won't do any harm.

Per sub, series 2 coil packs in perfect condition. These are for RB25DET engines without the trans pack on back of the head. Came from a low k engine (<50k kms). Catch is...only 5...$40 each or $180 the lot, plus postage, COD, etc. I'm in Melbourne

I have a complete running RB30E you can have. It's still in the car (87 Silh) so you can check it yourself. I'm in Melbourne.

Just standard heavy duty clutches like the Patrol type, not the organic type.

Just some info on Daiken clutches that may be of interest to some. A friend of mine builds performance engines for early model datsuns and has been buying heavy duty clutches to suit through Nissan (he gets a very good deal as a volume buyer and he gets excellent warranty service....as you'll see). Recently some customers have been coming back to him complaining the clutches have begun to slip after only a very few k's and abuse is definately not an issue. Investigation showed that the clutches had been manufactured by Daiken and measurements showed that the clamping pressure was well below the manufacturers claims. Daiken initially denied the problem, but after some months of pressure, inc from Nissan, they admitted the fault and replaced all the clutches free of charge (as they should, of course). Now I'm not saying all Daiken clutches are like this - far from it - but its interesting to me to read some of the problems people have here. We now use the PBR version of this clutch with no problems...oh, and the trade price at Bursons for the heavy duty Patrol PN R173N clutch kit is $160 [Note: I won't go into any further details on this - the matter has been sorted, that's it. Mods: if I've over-stepped any boundaries here in terms of naming a company please modify post as you see fit]

Depends on how hard you push it, but there's a greatly increased chance of pinging and engine destruction in the worst case.