ant0ny

Ok got sorted. I can't recommend these guys enough. Auto Glass Warehouse 47 Musgrave Rd Coopers Plains 07 3344 4466 They found me a window in 12 hours and fitted it today. They stock a lot of Nissan glass and a pretty good at finding anything imported or odd.

Hi I have had my passenger front door window smashed today. Don't know how or why but it is. Does anyone in Brisbane have a replacement window I could buy urgently. I don't mind removing it myself if I have to.

very nice build... very well done. 2 things that might be worth a look would be on page http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...html&st=680 the air ram setup looks great maybe a little shallow but you are limited a little there. Very effective and something most average people don't consider. But I wondered if a missed opportunity to direct some of the airflow over the 2 fuel rails and maybe a finned fuel rail to get more fuel cooling. The other is the strut brace... you would be surprised how much it would be flexing. a Straight one over the ram tubes will fit and work much better.

Some people seem to be concerned about Brake Pad Size... this does not effect braking capacity of the system, it will help with heat load at the critical end of braking and may help with pad wear. The clamping pressure of the braking system is what does the work and gives you that very confident stab on the bakes. To achieve clamping pressure as many pistons as you can get is the most effective way to achieve this. If you are concerned with smaller pads... say you tow with inadequate trailer braking. Fit cooling ducts to all brakes and this will help with braking down long hills etc at high speeds.

Thanks for the info it's looking that way... I have a spare gtr box sitting in the shed so yeah I was just saving myself a bit of time measuring it up and dropping into AutoCAD. I'll post up my CAD file when I do it in the next few weeks... for those who might like it.

Hi, Does anyone have a drawing or even better a CAD file for the R32 GTR RB26 bell housing bolt pattern. I need to make an adapter plate from the R32 GTR 4wd box to a different engine.

TS Astra I think I got mine from running in a front wheel drive rally car. Despite the short sighted people around... they have been in use in the Off Road Racing for many years for all the positive reasons mentioned. The standard Holden Astra one is as robust as any on the market and given most people don't know what they are you can pick one up from a wrecker for as little as $250. For the people who have not seen one they are power assist and have better feel than any Nissan (or any other) mechanical pump. They ramp up the pressure when needed and run in an idle state when nothing is happening. Mine is wired to a switch on the dash so I can turn it off when on the dyno. If someone gets one and needs a hand with the wiring I can dig up something as it is as not straight forward with more than 1 power wire and from memory the wire colours are odd.

Repco Part is shit Don't bother with it... I fitted 2 and thay both lasted a few days only. Nissan Genuine Part 25320-75AOE (about $25) Antony

Breake Light Switch Repco Part Number: CSL43 About $15 S1 4WD Turbo Auto Antony

Spotted S2 White with standard wheels... Newmarket Rd Sunday morning... waved and waved back. ant

Do you have the lid for the centre console compartment (which is also the centre arm rest)... if so what colour and material is it. Brisbane 4051 Antony

Darren, All, I can't make it sorry, Liz and I are having builders on site and I need to get things sorted to keep things going. This is because Liz and I are now having a baby and we have some 6 months to get our place finished otherwise it won't happen for ages once the bub arrives. I blame my father... when I turned up to show the folks the Stagea he said "... why did you buy a family wagon?... " Ha... I gues at least he didn't say Volvo wagon. Maybe Stagea's make you fertile or something. A warning to all you blokes . Antony

Installed my reversing camera today. Series 1 4WD Auto. Went well so I took pictures to show a few steps. This went faily easy... as the forum topic has outlined. I got a picture on AV2 straight away. As soon as I moved out of the driveway it turned off the picture and then when I stopped the picture returned. This has been out lined as well and Chook has found a cheater pluggin to fix this problem. I was thinking about this after I had finished and remembered seeing a switch behind the head unit when I put in a new CD player. I removed the unit and dug it out again. It says On and Off... but also on the sticker on the left says Navi <=> TV. What do you know... in one position as soon as the car starts to move the screen turns off... but in the other position the screen stays on and I can drive with the rearview camera always on. Now my Nav/CD player was all original when I got the car so as far as I know what was added is either factory or done in Japan aftermarket. The switch comes out of the Screen part of the head unit and doesn't look anything but standard. So those who are thinking of this should have a look for a switch like what I have. Antony

New set of plugs gapped to 0.8mm fixed the problem. I accidently had the bottom vac hose off the solinoid for a run around the block... it boosted to 15psi or more and hit a fuel cut or something... scared me a little as i didn't want to damage anything.

Great post... what plugs are people suggesting for our stagea's? What I have found looking around so far: BCPR5EIX-11 NGK iridiums to suit rb20det Spark Plugs - NGK BCPR7ES (copper, gapped to 0.8 mm) Spark plugs (high speed) = NGK BCPR7ES (copper, gapped to 0.8 mm) ~$20 per set of 6. Low speed = 1 range hotter, traffic = 2 ranges hotter. NGK PFR5G-11

I did this mod yesterday. Cut the Black wire from the solinoid and ran it to earth. If you turn your ignition on (without engine running) you can hear the solinoid "click" as you tap the Black wire on an earth point. before a cheap Supercheap guage showed about 7psi and with the mod 9+psi I am getting a fluctuation or missfire somewhere around 5000rpm then it clears and pulls to 7000rpm. Not realy the same every time either so I will pull plugs out and check the gap as Duncan mentioned above.

Spotted Sunday in Fredericton NSW just north of Kempsey. Burgandy Stag with STAGEO I think or similar number plates.

Must be just the shocks only then. Was that way when I got it... I noticed it a few weeks ago when I had them out... written on them in white marker. Ok so I need to keep an eye on them as they wear... good to know. ant

I have R33's in the rear of my S1 4wd Turbo. iijj has driven it he and I seem to think it is fine. ant

Love the idea. One thing I tried to get with the AstraMk2 forum, where I have my Opel Kadett race car... is to make sections where the info is entered by the submitter but not commented on in an open forum. I find it hugely frustrating that info is formed into DIY sections on forums... but in the end you have to dig 20 pages deep to find the info. I think if someone goes to the trouble to formulate a DIY info section then allow him to present it and keep it closed to comments... but allowing people to PM extra info or suggestions. This will allow people to search and find info easier and if done right will be a first.. I have not seen a site yet that has good controle over the info presentation that makes it easy to find amungst all the crap and comments. Just a thought. Antony

yeah don't want to pinch my pinky ... I held down the Brake Pedal then put my finger between the pedal and the switch and pushed the switch on and off. Thanks I'll try the suggestions... thanks

I have a weird problem with my brake lights. S1 4WD Auto. I sometimes works and sometimes not. I suspected the switch after checking fuses and bulbs. If I hold the brake pedal down and push the brake switch on and off with my finger I get the same error of not always working. But I can hear a relay switching under the dash near the fuses... but I can hear a second relay I think on the pasenger side or in the console? ... maybe something to do with the Park position and putting brake on to move out of Park?? Has anyone had this problem? or any ideas?

Fitting 17 x 9inch mags on the Stagea with ET45 means you are very close to the rear strut and with a little wheel and axel deflection it will scrape... this is also depending on you rear negative camber... the more Negative you go the closer the wheel will be to the strut. I had to run a 5mm spacer to stop this... I hate spacers so I did this small mod to offset the rear suspension enough to clear the rim. I bought large washers that fitted over the suspension point to space it away from the wheel. 21mm inside washers 3.5mm thick. I turned up 2 spigots to replace the original washer and bolt... also help share the strut load. You will need a longer bolt. Simple to do... slide off the strut, place the spacers, fix on the strut and insert the spigot and bolt together. Another thing I found to look out for. The previous owner put one of the struts on different to the other side... normaly this would not make any difference. But if the strut is fitted with the end of the coil face you as you look under the guard... you get a fraction more clearance than the other way. I am running 235x45x17 tyres. The fronts are 8inch thus the need to run 235's on the rear on a 4x4 Stagea keeping the tyre dia the same front to rear. Antony

Spotted Black Stagea with white wheels (I am sure they where white)... Newmarket Road Brisbane about 2:30ish pm... didnt see if it was a S1 or S2 only saw it side on as it passed my house. 2 in 3 days record for me Antony

2pmish (friday) Webseter Rd Brisbane... White Stagea didnt see if it was a S1 or a S2... waved. Antony