Brezza

i'm just interested in seeing if my GTR will still make the same power it did after its build? i got it tuned and pulled 250rwkw @13psi, i'll be interested to see how consistent it is! looking forward for some good footage of the car @ full throttle

Hey people, just wanted to start a thread to find out whether there are many people out there running split width rims and tyres on their GTR. i know people have raised issues about the ATESSA, and rolling diameter of the wheels. but i am currently running a set of 17's and my front rims are 9in wide and the rear are 10in wide. my car is a R32 GTR i got 235/45R17 on the front and 255/40R17 on the rear. using this link i calculated my rolling radius and circumference to be http://www.club80-90syncro.co.uk/Syncro_we...0calculator.htm front circumference 1962mm rear circumference 1939mm DIFFERENCE of 23mm front radius 312mm read radius 309mm DIFFERENCE 3mm (which is 6mm in diameter) i know its not equal, but i am hoping to keep the same size for the front and get a 265/40R17 on the rear, which will make the Circumference 1964mm (Difference of 2mm) and Radius 313mm (Difference of 1mm) does anyone else favour the added traction on the rear of a GTR??

i've just spent $14k on the car in the past 6 months. bought new coilovers for it, then had to replace the turbos, then the motor had to be rebuilt! my bank account balance is a pretty sorry sight! the car is running pretty well right now though. still needs a few things to be repaired from wear and tear. hopefully after i replace the rubber it should make the car handle much better. i think i'll have to point fingers at my worn Maxxis on the front wheels to be the cause of the car not handling well and no wheel alignment before going and spending $7k on suspension work! cheers for everyones help though!

how much did all this cost you? i had some doughnuts fitted to the rear subframe when my bushes burst. it tightened the rear up really well. i used to have pretty crazy over steer when i had my sway bar set to hard, now i got it on the softest setting, just so its not so responsive cos before it would always turn too sharp and the back end would slide out. on another note, i am sure others have run wider wheels on the rear on their GTR. the AWD system runs off the rolling diameter, and i worked out with 235/45R17 on the front and 265/40R17 on the rear the rolling diameter has a difference of 1mm. so its pretty damn close. i dont think this would cause any AWD system issues?? you could have more of a difference running the same wheels front and back with one tyre being flatter than the other.

thanks man! will be checking with the bloke on the weekend if he can do it

when i first bought my GTR it came with an Apexi Stainless front Y-pipe, standard cat, and 3.5 inch cat back exhaust (rusted) and with holes in it. i replaced the cat back exhaust with a 3in stainless cat back and 3.5inch muffler. noticed no difference at all. exhaust blokes told me the only thing holding me back is the standard cat, they explained it this way, "think of a garden hose spraying water, and what happens when you put a kink or pinch the hose together?" because the standard cat wasnt the same diameter as the rest of the exhaust the front pipe and cat back were pretty much useless, they had probably a little gain over standard diameter exhaust and obviously changed the sound but flow wasnt at its best. then changed the cat to a 3inch high flow metal cat. noticed a big difference in spool up as soon as i left the exhaust workshop. i've since got dump pipes when my turbo's were changed, that little bit wider pipe has made no difference, but i thought i may as well, on a GTR you're only talking 15cm of dump pipe anyways. if you want the full benefit of a larger exhaust? "do it properly, get a full turbo back exhaust" that way there are no restrictions.

Hey guys, does anyone know any place in SA that could make up a metal circle about 5cm in diameter that i could glue onto my centre cap? my centre caps are off a set of Stern 17in rims, and they have a metal circle for the centre cap, which is stuck on with some double sided tape and over time the tape has lost its use and the metal part has come off. now i am just left with the clip in part but no cover. the circle had a shield engraved into it. so does anyone know a business that could help me? cheers!

Same thing happened to me, same Stern 17in rims, i've lost two of them. both front ones. still got the back. what did you do? i am thinking of getting some blank metal circle that i can maybe glue to the cap so it doesnt come off from the centre cap made up just to make it less noticeable.

yeah might have to look into getting adjustable bushes. i think i am in bad need for a wheel alignment, i havent had one since my HICAS has gone in. cheers guys, most people on here with GTR's run wider tyres on the rear, mainly because its hard to squeze wide ones in the front. my Stern rims are 9inch wide on the front and 10 inch wide on the rear. have you guys had any experience with the TOYO R1R's or T1R's? dont mind R1R's on the front because they are brake and steer wheels, but the rear tyres would wear out really quickly, thats why i thought to go for the cheaper and possibly harder wearing T1R's? Brez

hey guys, just looking for some opinions, i've got a set of Stern 17inch rims on my R32 GTR. 235/45R17 on the front and 255/40R17 on the rear. the rims arent nothing special but they kinda suit the car. i was looking at going for a set of 18in HP Rims (8in front and 9in rear) with tyres for around $2k package with Khumo tyres. or i am looking at getting a set of Toyo tyres, R1R's for the front and T1R's for the rear. all up the Toyo tyres will cost $1300. i know if i go for the 18in rims i'd probably have a nicer looking rim, but the tyres for 18's are a fair bit dearer than for 17's. my car has 250rwkw @13psi, i got Tein superstreet Jap Spec coilovers, and a solid whiteline rear adjustable sway bar, on the soft setting. i am currently annoyed with my front tyres not gripping and the rear have let go sometimes around corners. i do a little bit of spirited driving here and there, but it does get its fair share of normal city drive time. i will eventually be looking at getting more power out of the motor, i got the forged motor and -5's just need and ECU and fuel pump & injectors. your thoughs? i've attached a pic of my car with the current rims, and a pic of the HP rims i am thinking of putting on.

changed the oil over the weekend, its all clean now. it must've been all the build stuff and crappy mineral oil from the run in period

Hey Guys, i was just wondering whether anyone else has noticed that after they have had their sump baffle installed there looks to be a very dirty oil on the bottom of the dip stick and clean as it comes towards the marker? i dont know whether it is normal to have dirty oil sitting in the bottom of the sump with a baffle in? but i never noticed it before i had the baffle in? the motor has had a full rebuild and a hot wash so it is completely clean, it shouldnt have grubby oil in it. i am debating whether the pick up is picking up all the oil and filtering it properly or not? i am hoping to change the oil soon, and i'll be sure to let it all drain out. it could be just the build grease that was used and mineral oil, from when i was running the motor in? anyone else experiencing this?

i used to change mine every 3,000kms or so. when i had my old motor, it was around then that the oil would be black. i'd just check it regularly and if it looked too dirty i would change it. i used K&N filters which are expensive but they keep the oil cleaner. i've got a new rebuild now, probably will keep up the 3,000km changes as long as i can afford it, just to try and keep the oil clean, but if the oil can stay cleanish til 5,000kms. oil is far cheaper than another build, so i dont mind paying $80 for oiland filter regularly. beats paying close to 10k for a rebuild. Brez

i found castrol edge to be a little too thin, i spun a bearing using this oil. only my opinion though, it was on a stock bottom end. i was using mobil 1 before that, then decided to change because i was told a thinner oil would work better given the small oil galleries of the GTR motor. i'll never use Castrol Edge again, Mobil 1 for me all the way. never had a problem with this oil, keeps temperatures low and is great from startup. Brez

i believe that the O2 sensor only trims the mixtures at cruise. when tuning you turn the sensor off or you could unplug it. this allows the computer to not trim the mixtures and you get a true readout of what air fuel ratio you have. but when youre under load the O2 sensor does nothing. i am not running any at the moment in my GTR, still waiting on Nissan to get some in. the car runs fine, chews through a little more fuel than it should when cruising but other than that no difference.

i had the same problem, replaced the hose as its cheap as, mine had dried up and was a stretched from being on the car for 20 years. FYI mine is a '89 R32 GTR too. replaced the hose, cable tied it and it hasnt popped off since. easy fix!

plenty of people are using the -5's with under 400kw picked them up for a great price brand new. once i get the supporting fuel and ecu mods will probably be trying for over the 300rwkw mark

simplest answer i can give you is "because of the $$$" takes a little time to save up some cash to get fuel pump, ecu and injectors after spending 9k on the motor and 3k on turbos incl. installation. not trying to be sarcastic.

hey guys, i was just wondering i have a fully rebuilt forged motor with all the goodies! pistons, bearings, recon head, large head gaskets, baffle, oil restrictor. also have 2860-5's with a full 3in exhaust off the turbos, pod filters. running 13psi and getting 250rwkw still have stock ecu, injectors and fuel pump i was wondering if i replace the fuel pump, the car would maybe be more responsive at low rpm, off boost and spool up quicker? i know an aftermarket ECU would allow for the tuner to adjust timing and fuel maps to minimise lag. but the question is whether a fuel pump would make a considerable difference with the stock ECU?? cheers,

yeah i get that with mine, it does get a little annoying. i've just learnt to get used to it, i dont have to drive up too many long hills, and if i do i just let it slow down then kick it back a gear and plant it! induction noise puts a smile on your face!!

i run Mines dump pipes, and a aftermarket front pipe, and 3in cat back exhaust with 1 oval muffler, and a Magnaflow 3in cat, its quiet enough not to get noticed by the cops, which is great. and it sounds pretty good at full tilt. i had a Decat on my WRX and it was a pain with the rear bar getting dirty. the gains arent much at all with a Decat vs a high flow cat, maybe 5-15kw at the most. but the worst part is Cat = LEGAL!! DeCat = Flames out the exhaust (yes i do admit they look cool), but if the cops see = BIG FINE!! id rather be on the safe side, cos you cant always not make your car belch a flame when you're being watched. Brez

in your situation with the distance i would go with what the tuner advises. but i am looking at getting a Nistune soon, basically because my car is just a streeter, my tuner does both. and obviously i am gonna go the cheaper option because all i need is to maybe have the timing and fuel maps changed, and possibly allow for larger injectors and the Nistune will do that. but i have heard great things about the Vipec, but i think $14k is enough to spend on a car in 8 months! time to start holding onto my money brez

the time is fine for me Brezza

+1 for pulling the globe BUT: make sure you dont break the speedo cable like i did once! not too expensive, only $140 but a pain cos your power steer cuts out and of course you dont know how fast youre going. brez

'89 R32 GTR Rebuilt Motor: CP Forged Pistons Tomei Sump Baffle Tomei Thicker Head Gasket New R33 GTR Crank ACL Race Bearings Recon Head Garrett 2860-5's 3in Exhaust w/Mines dump pipes Trust Airnix Pods Stock ECU Stock Injectors Stock Fuel Pump Peak Power 250.0rwkw @ 13psi, kept it to waste gate tension as the motor has just been run in. Will be going for more soon, but a punchy 250rwkw is enough for now Dyno_Results__1st_run____13psi.pdf