Brezza

i've been using a Walbro in my 32 GTR for about 6 months now with no issues. they're quiet and allow for good flow. i am getting 320rwkw in my GTR with just the intank high flow pump. i've heard that the bosch ones because they're physically bigger can make noise (vibration) if they are not fitted correctly? correct me if i am wrong?

how are you going to get off defect with a rb20 in an s13? i had an EJ25 in my 99WRX when i got defected and i would've had to get it taken out to get through regency. good luck mate

cheer's guys, i am aware that i'll need to get a retune for the bigger AFM's, that's not an issue. i'll speak to my tuner and ask whether he is able to do it. another tuner i spoke to about this told me he wouldnt do it, because he wont tune on second hand AFM's he only uses brand new z32's because he said that its very hard to get the tune right on GTR's because there are 2 AFM's and they could be reading differently? all i am after is a little more scope so with a slight bit more boost i have some reading from the AFM's that isnt at full. will post back once i get it done with the results

Hey everyone, i was just doing some searching on whether i could replace my stock GTR afms for some green label RB20/25 ones. i have read some posts saying that it is possible, but i was wondering whether there is anyone that is using 2 green label AFM's on their GTR and what issues they experienced with it. for me it seems to be the much cheaper option than forking out for a pair of z32's. i am not chasing huge power. my mods are 2860-5's Nistune ECU 660cc injectors Walbro fuel pump 3in exhaust with a 3.5in muffler 3in highflow cat rebuild engine with forged internals recond head done while engine out for rebuild stock r34 GTR intercooler stock AFM's i had it last dynoed and got 320rwkw @ 18psi i know that the turbos have much more room for more power. but i would be limited to the stock intercooler and 3in exhaust but i would like to just be able to bump the boost up to 20psi and see if i could get close to 350rwkw without maxing out my AFM's so to me paying $400 for a second hand set of z32's and getting some piping and filters for the bigger AFM's is not worth the extra 30rwkw. so if i could pick up some green label AFM's for cheaper i would be much happier, and my wallet would be a little fuller. Cheers,

i would check electrics, sounds similar to what mine was doing, and it turned out to be the fuseable link and the battery wasnt being charged properly and voltage was dropping out.

hey mate, are these green label AFM's still available?

i've been reccomended super pro bushes by my mechanic and he's a pretty well respected skyline mech in Adelaide. but any ones which are poly urethane are good, such as whiteline. i am going super pro because they're the same material but they are just a little cheaper. i have a r32 GTR with whiteline sway bar on rear and tien super street coilovers, and i am going to do: adj castor bushes set to max adj front upper camber bushes to give a little more camber adj rear upper camber bushes to remove a little camber also i don't track my car, it is just a street car which i use for a little bit of spirited driving, it doesnt see any extreme driving like track days.

i've got the R1R's they're excellent for dry grip and wet too, but they do wear down quickly. but i suppose its due to the soft rubber, its the trade off that you have to pay for awesome grip. i'm running 320rwkw in my R32 GTR and i dont have a problem putting the power down with the tyres on. if you can afford them then definitely get them.

just get a big muffler for it. i've got a 3.5in oval muffler on the end of my r32 GTR and thats it. it has a nice sound and is quieter than the regular 33 GTS with a full 3in and cannon. but at high revs and full throttle it really does scream. and doesnt restrict much, i am running over 300rwkw with it. the rest of the system is a 3in catback, and a trust front pipe. mine cost about 200 installed, its a super cat brand i think?

mine spikes to 19psi then holds 18psi had it tuned on the dyno and it was consistently doing the same thing. so it was able to be tuned to suit using the Nistune. i have the stonger actuators and -5's i was going to go for the EBC but the bleed valve works fine.

mine isnt one of those shiny GFB ones or the turbo smart ones, it just looks pretty boring and if you didnt know what it is for you'd easily mistake it for just a normal part of the engine bay. can't remember what brand it is at all??

yeah, even tried to fit them on my R32 GTR the holes match up and thats about it. when you tighten they're hard pressed against brakes, center hole too big.

+1 Toyo R1r's i have them all round on my R32 GTR i have 320rwkw, similar power my rims are 17's i have 235 x 45 R17 all round, picked them up for exactly $300 each pretty pricey but they do work really well, had them on the street car for about 10 months now. i dont track the car so i can't tell you from my experience what they're like but i'd assume that the compound is good enough not to 'chunk' they're great when you can get some heat in them, i can take corners in the hills so much better now and with more confidence. and the wet weather grip is great, i was spinning all 4 in the wet on the weekend but it was pouring down in Adelaide and i really did put my foot down. so with a couple millimetres of water on the road and over 300kw what can you expect? Brezza

exactly! look after number one, let them take care of themselves, couldnt agree more

personally i wouldnt tell an employer anything i didnt feel was completely necessary. i had a holiday planned to London which is coming up early July. i am an accountant and july is the most busiest time for accountants with EOFY. but i didnt tell them that i had a holiday planned because i really wanted the job, and if it came down to it i would take time off without pay to go for it. luckily my specific role isnt going to be too effected by financial year close, so i got the time off and am looking forward to my holiday. BTW i got the job in Feb if the employer asks are you pregenant, or if you have anything that is going to cause you to take time off tell them. you shouldnt lie. but if you feel that it shouldnt be a huge issue then dont make it one.

yeah its a pretty stupid thing, not sure whether it could still be the fusable link? i am not a mechanic, was just telling you what my experience was with a similar issue. prob need to check with a auto elec or someone with tools to check it with a multimeter or something?

mate, sounds like its your fusable link. on my GTR i put the terminals on the wrong way round because i used my brothers battery out of his car to start it. fried the fusable link. could tell because no lights or accessories would work, just the engine would run. got an auto elec to fix, remade link. lasted about a year, then recently it was burning out slowly, prob because it wasnt a strong enough link for the replacement. the power steering was cutting out, then the guages didnt work, so i couldnt tell how fast i was going, it was really bad. then the battery went flat. so what was happening the car ran the battery completely flat and the alternator couldnt charge because the link was broken. get the link fixed, its only a cheap part, i think it was $50 from nissan. and remember, next time 'Don't connect the battery the wrong way round' good luck

sounds like the exact same thing that happened to me, put foot down boosted up BANG!! black smoke out the rear (lots of it!!) drove like a n/a car not building any boost. replace the turbos and hope that there was no damage to engine, i was unlucky enough to replace the turbos after they blew then the front conrod bearing went so i had to get a full rebuild a week after the new turbos were installed. good luck mate, i went the 2860-5's, they're a bit laggy, but now with the boost up to 19psi it really does pull hard all the way to 320rwkw.

i was told by Sean at boostworx that its not really needed, i've got a GTR and he told me the wiring on it is fine and there is no real point. its other cars like silvia's and 180's that might benefit from rewiring it.

hey mate, do you know if those r33 rims will clear the brakes on a r32 GTR? just interested in some spare rims

my car is a little sluggish until it comes up to temp then it is great. i usually if i really have to drive it cold i just keep it in one lower gear and drive at slightly higer rpm with little load as possible. so for example 3rd gear at 50 or 60km/hr the temp does goe up a little faster and because there is less load on the motor it doesnt have to work so hard. on my GTR its all due to the Nistune ECU being in cold start mode.

i recently had a problem with my power steering cutting in and out in my 32 GTR. i had a lock bar in it and the light used to come on after driving for around 20 mins and the steering would be a tiny bit heavier but i wasw told it is normal to get this. but the big problem started when my powersteer would cut out and it would really annoy me, it was like playing daytona USA at the bowling alley. i tried topping up the power steering resevoir, that didnt help then, on the odd occasion my guages would drop out. took it to the mechanic and broke down on the way there, the battery was completely dead and car wouldnt start. it turned out to be the fusible link that wasnt making a proper connection and the power steering was cutting out first then the rest of the electronics. so it may help to check the fusible link? its only a $50 part and has solved my power steering problems. Brez

Do you still have the strut braces available? Brezza

cheers guys who organised it, it was a great night, and a pretty good turn out. i'll be definitely coming along to more of these when they're organised.

i'd say just get a GTR either a 32 or 33, save your money on stuffing around sourcing parts, haivng the car off the road, plus all the headaches of doing engine changeovers etc. like others have said the money you'd spend on making your car similar to a GTR or a turbo GTS with AWD, will be more than you would spend on just getting a GTR. if i were you i would just go for a GTR, you will be very happy with the power you can achieve too, its a higher base to start modifying from.