Mayuri Krab

You can check if the shield is on or not, just pop the bonnet & look for the turbo, if you can see it then the heat shield is not on. I would ask them for the old shield back & put it on, as it seem to block quite a bit of heat from the turbo coming upwards. Also what are you seeing from your oil pressure? From what your description it seems to me like your gauge wasn't working correctly b4 & now it is... As my oil pressure will move frequently with throttle once the engine has warmed up. Mine usually moves in the range of 2 to 6 (idle at 2 & goes up to 6 under heavy throttle).

Did they put the stock turbo heat shield back on? When I got my brand new turbo back exhaust system, I felt something similar as well. Could feel excess heat when I'm stationary with windows down & I had a burnt smell as well. If the pipes are new, the burnt smell is mostly normal. But when I 1st drove the car back that burnt smell scared the sh*t out of me as I thought my engine caught on fire & I pulled over like several times just to check the engine bay on my way home from the workshop. After a while though, the smell gradually disappeared & I don't seem to be able to notice the heat anymore.

Did you tell her that, or was it her idea?

Just get a turbo smart Tee, I think I saw them at Repco for $100ish or look around the forums for a 2nd hand one.

I like to know this as well, I got a R33 GTST auto. So you guys do shift kits for auto Skylines? Can I get a rough price for the kit & install?

+1 I'm very sceptical in working with medias like TT/ACA in trying to make import drivers look anything but 'hoons' to the general public. If anything TT/ACA will probably twist & edit the story around & make you guys look even worse in another "hoon" story its not the 1st time they have done it, anyone still remember the "drifting hoons in Sydney" story they did with footage of people drifting in Japan. Depends on the state, in WA open PODs are legal (last time I checked) as long as its secured properly, however having said that, if the cop wants to sticker you, he still will.

Do the passenger get any fine? So does that mean if they hate you they can take off their seat belt on purpose so they can get u in trouble?

Must have not being paying much attention as I haven't noticed much change to the price of RON 98 around my area. Ever time I fill up its always between 1.28 to 1.35 (take another 4c of that for the discount card thing). But I do remember years (10years+) back when my parents & family friends went to Monkey Mia, the price of RON 91 were 90c & they were saying how expensive it was compared to Perth (which was between 55c to 70c... now if any station had any of those prices today I would be paying them a visit with not only my car but also several large gallon drums

Just watched it, & this is what I thought as well. Plus I think its only the passenger of the R33 that got a bit jumpy during the 2nd encounter I don't recall the driver doing anything stupid or making any smart ass comments at all during the 2 encounters with the cop. The driver took it pretty well, must be used to all the cop attention & yellows. & I don't see any bad stereotypes this on Skyline drivers being promoted here, other than that they are easy targets for yellows for other cops to know.

I think it requires you to have no fines near the end of your P period Maintenance cost will be lower, however still expect moderate cop attention, as most of them can't tell the difference between GTS, GTS-T or GT-R.

What he said. The main problem of owning a GT-R as a 1st & only car that is used for daily duties would be maintenance & insurance cost + cop attention. As to whether or not a u should drive a GT-R will come down to ur personal attitude when behind the wheel. I bought my Skyline (cheaper GTS-T model ) 2 weeks after I got my Ps. I'll be off my Ps early Nov & I'm still alive & fine this whole time & I just received my free 1st year license renew for having no driving offenses Comes down to your attitude when driving basically.

NNOO!!! ur ruining the suspense for me, today's episode haven't being shown in WA yet. Well at least he didn't say "These cars are made for hooning."

I thought all the cocks moved from Beemers to Audis.

Bought online as in an online store or just an ad posted online (like the for sale section here)? If its online store only: Boost gauge holder Apexi POD POD box If its the other: SAFC II Bleed valve R34 SMIC

Holy sh*t, glad at least his ok. I almost got hit on the side 2day as well, due to some stupid idiot in a POS doesn't seem to know that you suppose to stop & check for incoming traffic & give way to them when approaching a T-junction.

So in other words Kosteci is still running the monopoly?

The other explanation I got was aftermarket boost gauges can distract u from driving but a GPS won't... some how

Also keep a look out on people wrecking cars here, thats were I got mine from.

Episode 2 is better, they mentioned the word 'hoon' like 20 second into the show Looking forward to next week's episode, seem to have more hoons in it.

Same with mine. Mine has a very loud buzz & grgule sound since day 1 of getting it installed when my stock one died. The exhaust noise covers the pump noise up inside the car, however outside its very noticeable when you are near the rear of the car. Being fine for about close to a year now.

LOL, this was one of the idea that came to mind while I was looking at the subject, compared to b4 the box does indeed feels & act like all the other auto box cars I have driven (91 VN commodore & 02 Camry) in that it doesn't hold onto each gear for a long time unless I'm flooring it or have power mode on. Haven't contacted the shop yet, might do that on SAT, damm too much uni work going on. I'm guessing thats a bad thing? Sorry don't really know much about all the electronic stuff. I didn't notice any sluggish/flatspot during the shifts, the gear shifts are actually better than before, before, the gear change from 1st to 2nd were like a big 'jerk', & now the 1st gear change is more like a soft 'click' simlilar with the other gear changes. The gear changes are still not as smooth as the 02 Camry, but I take that is due to the old condition of the auto box. Seems all good so far, the only thing I don't like atm is that, since it will change into final gear at 60km/h & now its much more sensitive to throttle it will happliy downshift to 3rd if my foot was even slightly down too much on the gas & go into 4th again when I ease of the throttle. Atm I'm getting around this problem by just turning Overdrive off on normal roads & only turning it on, on roads with speed limit of 70km/h or higher. Lastly its kinda hard to maintain the speed limit with this increase in power, torque & throttle response. I need to work on upgrading my regular granny driving style to super granny style to get it under control.

Hey guys, I recently got my SAFC II installed & tuned for my auto R33 GTS-T with the following support mods: -3" turbo back exhaust with high flow CAT -Apexi POD -R34 GTT SMIC -Turbosmart boost controller set at 10PSI Car made ~240rwhp On the way back yesterday & driving to uni today I noticed that the auto box's "shift points" have moved lower compared to b4 & its behavior have changed compared to b4. B4 the "min speed" at which gear changes occur were at ~25, 50 & 70km/h, now the gear changes will happen at 20, 40 & 60km/h & the box also seems to be much "willing" to move up to overdrive as soon as possible compared to b4. For example, before hand, as long as I apply a constant throttle (even if its a small one) the car will hold onto 2nd gear until 70km/h, to get it to change at the "min speed" of 50km/h I need to reach 50km/h, back off the throttle & let it change. I have to do the same thing for it to go from 3rd to overdrive. But now, if I still apply a small constant throttle, it will change from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to OD all by itself without me having to do any of the above (lifting off throttle to let it change). Also the speed at which the gear changes seem to have being moved down lower, as now gear changes occur at 20, 40 & 60 instead of the old 25, '50' & '70'. As a result, b4 if I were driving at 60km/h the car would stay in 3rd gear at ~2500rpm, but now it would change into OD ~<2000rpm. Also the gearbox also seem to be much more sensitive to throttle & load compared to b4 & will happily drop down gears compared to b4, where it would just act lazy & stay in the same gear unless I'm really flooring it. Finally the gear changes seem to be faster compared to b4; it like to hang there for a sec or so b4 changing but now its just jumping through them at rapid rate. Basically I would like to know is how is this even possible? Can a SAFC alter the gear box logic? My understanding was the all it does is change fuel mixtures at different rpm points to avoid the car running rich due to the extra boost & stock ECU. Or is this caused by something else? I got the SMIC & boost controller installed at the same time as the SAFC, but I doubt they got anything to do with the change of behavior of the auto box. Any info would be appreciated Cheers.

Running windows 7 RC on my laptop atm. So far I'm impressed by the fact that auto update manage to find drivers for my video chip while Nvidia site couldn't get it right (mobile 9500GS).

Soccer mums in 4x4s? "Officer, I felt my life was in danger as I was going to get crushed by those crazy b*tches in single lane roads, so I speed to shake them off".

Dam I missed this weeks show! Better start setting up a weekly timer recording on my DVD/HDD recorder for it. Now we talking! Was there a import shown on the preview?