gumflapper

had this problem for a while... under WOT the car spitting and stuttering purchased some splitfires problem solved

PM sent

sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo many awesome cars

pretty good

tig welding takes practice as with anything. i think its harder then mig and about the same as stick to learn. just got to practice as with anything else... the more you do the better you'll eventually get

i had the same shit... cost me 2.5k. had all 4 wisdom teeth out at once. my face swelled up like a bitch. couldnt eat nothing but yoghurt. i had braces on as a kid and then the wisdom teeth decided to come up on the piss and push my bottom front teeth into eachother so got them out real quick. still have a wire in the bottom behind my front teeth to keep them from moving tho.

yeh i dunno y u need 5 fuses

yeh u could use it as a direct replacement if u wanted to... only this is from jaycar they're about $15 each Datasheet - http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/stmicroelectronics/2576.pdf

use a LM338K voltage regulator (good for 5A)

well done

yeh thats right but for an application like this it is not relivant its in the millivolts per amp per meter - 0.01 Volts CSA - AMPS - Voltage Drop (mV/A.m) 1.5mm2 - 15A - 29.4 2.5mm2 - 20A - 17.6 4.0mm2 - 25A - 10.9 6.0mm2 - 46A - 7.29 just remember that these values are approximates and that the cable you buy may be SLIGHTLY different. not enough to make a lot of difference tho. these values i use are for triangle cables which we get from melbourne.

yeh ur exactly right saying "wiring is only as strong as the weakest link". the reason i used 6mm2 cable is because i had the lugs to suit it from work (im an electrician) and in any suituation it is better to oversize the cabling than to undersize it (not to be stupid tho - no need for 16mm2 cable for a 5A circuit lol) the correct way to calculate what size cable to use for circuits is as follows Ib <= In <= Iz where Ib - Current for which the circuit is designed (Load) In - Nominal Current of the Protective Device (Fuse/Circuit Breaker) Iz - Continous Current Carrying Capacity of the Cable (Wire) so 18A <= 20A <= 25A means for an 18A circuit use a 20A fuse with cable that can carry 25A of current AND in Australia we use the metric system not the WERE AMERICANS WHO MAKE UP OUR OWN SET OF UNITS OF MEASUREMENT THAT NO-ONE ELSE ON THE FUC*ING PLANET USES WIRING GAUGE SYSTEM... generally wiring sizes are as follows <0.75mm2 0.75mm2 1.0mm2 1.5mm2 - 15A 2.5mm2 - 20A 4.0mm2 - 25A 6.0mm2 - 46A 10.0mm2 - 63A 16.0mm2 - 85A 25.0mm2 - 115A 35.0mm2 - 140A 50.0mm2 - 165A to inifinity and beyond! hope some of this information helps you - not my rant on how i hate the AWG system

as long as the cable is of good quality and is capable of carring the full load current of the pump u decide to use then no, not really. i used ring lugs to bolt the wire to the pump and used a stainless steel nylock nut on each terminal

odds r the hose clamp screw was rotated around in the "wrong" spot - if there is one thats where mine are and it went straight in

price?

wiring would be identical... as for attatching it to the bracket i dont see why it would be that much different - looks like ull need smaller hose clamps tho... that pump looks tiny fuel pump? - http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=343794

dammit! 2 slow

yeh thanks. i decided to clean it out as i was changing the spark plugs so i thought id do both at the same time and at the time i didnt have any gasket goo... i could walk to autobarn so getting it tmrw arvo will be no problem. weird thing is tho it seems to do it worse after i give the car some grief...

see if this diagram i made helps you understand it a bit better link to other topic: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fu...html&st=220

electrical plugs are good. hoses are good. bolts are tight. i did not adjust the idle screw. i used the old gasket as it did not come off when i took the acc valve off. havnt checked for air leaks around the gasket. i have to go out in about an hour so ill check it all again before i leave. thanks for the ideas. adam

i decided to do mine yesterday. my car idled rough before hand but now after cleaning it all out it hunts around... any ideas y?

yeh the 30A fuse i drew actually came with the relay... 15A is sufficient... ideally the fuel pump should state the FLC of the unit but when i unpacked it, i dont remember it having any such rating

i assumed they were a generic stud aswell... but 1 end of the stud as M10 coarse thread and the other is M10 fine. the guy im getting the turbo off rang me this morning and he said the place next to him usually has studs and nuts that he's after... gonna try them if not, then maybe ill have to take drive to gympie

hey ppl my turbo died a few weeks ago so i decided to take off the stock dead turbo. as i was doing so 3 of the 4 lock nuts that bolt the turbo to the manifold came off rather eaisly... but ofcourse there is always 1 that wont. the 4th 1 locked to the nut and i took out the stud from the manifold. i cant get the nut off without damaging the thread so my question is... where can i get a manifold stud for a RB25? ive been to several places and the responses have varied from "we dont have those... try this place" gone to this place and "thats a mazda part... try repco" went to repco and "we only stock the universal studs". im going to try coventary fasterners tmrw arvo any other places? thanks adam

rotate your hose clamps around... mite be hitting something?