bbenny

haha thanks mate, i figured it all out, new rotors look great on there now!

Hey guys! im in a bit of a predicament here! in the middle of replacing discs need to finish so i can get to work tom! How do i remove the rear discs? i have pulled the wheel and caliper off, but the thing wont budge! do i have to undo the huge 36mm nut for the hub to remove? thing is the DBA 4000 rotor looks like it would slide over that hub? i removed the rubber plug and unscrewed two spring tentioned screws, but still wond budge. and yes handbrake is off. HELP PLEASE! thanks!

Hey guys! im in a bit of a predicament here! in the middle of replacing discs need to finish so i can get to work tom! How do i remove the rear discs? i have pulled the wheel and caliper off, but the thing wont budge! do i have to undo the huge 36mm nut for the hub to remove? thing is the DBA 4000 rotor looks like it would slide over that hub? i removed the rubber plug and unscrewed two spring tentioned screws, but still wond budge. and yes handbrake is off. HELP PLEASE! thanks!

well i have a 2530 on my RB20 and im making 290rwhp at 0.9-1bar the engine cuts if i run anymore boost i think its maxing the AFM. (completely stock computer too) im throwing in some GTR cams and adj cam gears with a re-chip for the ECU. i hope to make 330rwhp, any more and i will be very happy. i dont want to run anything higher than 1.2bar to make it. this is my everyday driver, so it has to be reliable. the response of the 2530 is great. and mid range and top end seem to be awesome, i dont think it will run out of puff at under 1.2bar. ill post the results when its done.

Hey Waz, Not alot happening at this stage as i had to fork out for new brake rotors just yesterday and decided to get some DBA 4000. very nice i might add, but this means the cam and cam/gear purchase has been put on hold. hopefully i will get around to it in the next week or two. has anyone else started yet? i managed to download the R32 GTR manual in PDF form, excellent help, i have printed out the relevant pages. it doesnt look like a difficult job, just alot of crap needs removing in order to get to the camshafts. what sux is having to drain the radiator and pull it out. its a fiddly job to do at home, looks like it will take a whole saturday to do properly

maybe the slave needs to be re-bled. if there is air in the hydraulic system it may not be lifting the plate properly. Hence when you push the clutch in quickly the air or bubbles are being compressed. I have a heavy duty exedy clutch on my RB20 and its fine, ive never had a prob with it.

Scooby, i have the exact same problem. and like yours it always suddenly goes away when i am abou 5 blocks from my place, same place every time. i have standard management with an SAFCII. Ive been wondering what the prob is, but havent worked it out. let me know when you find out!

just a quick question here. to get piston no1 TDC which marking on the pully do i have to align with the marker on the pully cover? also is it possible to do this cam conversion without pulling out the radiator?

aaaarrrgghhh haha not yet! dont get my credit card till wed! fingers crossed! so everyone just leave it for me

thanks chris! yeah $1100 is what i expect to pay, so thats pretty good.

well i have done a bit of calling around for re-chips on my std computer but it seems almost as expensive as buying a PFC. So anyone who has one for an RB20DET for sale please PM me! thanks.

ONLY tune it on a dyno! whatever you do, do not fiddle with it unless its on a dyno so you can check your a/f ratios. its pretty easy to lean it out and do serious damage. once you have installed it, just leave all the settings on 0 (zero) until you are able to get some dyno time. mine gave good results good luck.

do you have to remove the head to fit new valve springs? would you recomend fitting new valve springs if changing the cams? or is it a "if it ain't broke dont fix it" kind of thing?

awesome info armbrusb. exactly what i needed. thanks! doesnt sound too bad, i just needed to know how to get top dead centre. ill check out the GTR manual on here. thanks again.

as the title suggests. I am after a workshop to re-chip the standard R32 GTSt ECU. has anyone had any experience or know a good workshop to perform the operation? thanks

hmmm thats what i was afraid of roy, something simple and cheap(ish) getting all nasty on me! have you done the cam instalation yourself? how difficult is it. the only thing im worried about is setting everything in alignment - top dead centre or whatever. i dont want to make a mess of things when i get it all going.

regarding the difference between an RB20 using hyrdaulic lifters and GTR using solid. it is still ok to use the hyrdo or do i need to change the whole thing? also what valve springs would you recomend? thanks!

After a set of standard GTR camshafts. PM or call me on 0412 884 325 if you have them prefer Sydney so i can come pick them up. thanks Ben.

i have a 2530 on my RB20, i heard to many stories about the 2540 being too laggy on an RB20. The 2530 maybe a little laggier reaching 1bar a couple of hundred revs later than the standard item, but mid range is strong and top end difference is awesome. at the moment im running std computer, untuned. and its putting out 210rwkw at only 0.9 bar. i havent wound the boost up as over 1bar the engine cuts (maxing out AFM i think). im in the process of getting some GTR cams and adj cam gears to see the difference then get the ECU tuned. i hope to get about 230rwkw, any more and ill be stolked. I just think that the 2540 would be too laggy. if people are complaining about lag on an RB25 i dont want to know about it on an RB20.

thanks for the info Sydney kid, i am just getting a pair of adjustable cam gears, but i think i will add a pair of GTR cams to the trolley and see what results i get. for everyone interested i will post the results before and after so we can see the true difference. Oh and any advice when installing them?

Thanks sydneykid. hmmm well im always keen to try it myself. however i have never installed cams before. but it hasnt stoped me from doing everything else to my car ill have to read up on it first. any advice? is there a large price difference between step 1 HKS and GTR cams?

Hey i have done a search without alot of success. I read in another thread sydneykid and Roy talking about installing standard RB26 cams into an RB20. I just wanted to know more about it. who has done it. what changes to the head are necessary and what sort of gains seen from such a modification. any info would be great. Cheers!

Alright i have decided its time to hit the strip for the first time with my R32 GTST. only thing is, i dont want to run a crap time! i have some decent bolt on mods comming to 220rwkw, BUT im running super stiff Tein coilovers and 18" rims with tyres barely stretching the width. great for the circut, but im thinking its useless for a 1/4mile run. suspension: I still have the standard suspension but the shocks are blown and were like a pogo-stick when they were last in. Should i take these to a suspension specialist to be revalved and repaired or just find some other standard shocks for the drag? which is going to be cheaper? and advantages disadvantages? with tyres: i still have my standard wheels (16") with some ok-ish tyres. will they be better than the wider but lower profiled 18"s? should i find some crap wheels to fit decent tyres to? or just fit them to standard wheels. Any advice or info would be greatly appreciated! thanks heaps guys Ben.

Trek Liquid Custom Build 17.5" (medium) frame size 5inches travel front and rear Item Condition: Excellent (as new) only 4 months old. was used for a TV commercial only. Reason for selling: Need a big rig with 8"+ for a new project. Price and price conditions: $2,499 if interested email me: [email protected] or PM me. This is a regretful sale. This is with out doubt the best all round trail bike I have ever ridden. With 5" front and rear it has enough travel to handle some decent stuff yet accellerates quicker than my hardtail. It is a hand built frame in the USA. The talas rear shock allows you to adjust eye-eye length and stroke at the flick of a switch, its pretty amazing to see. As soon as i have my funds in order i can assure you I will be purchasing another one of these right away! The build cost over $6,000. Here is a list of components on this bike: - Trek Liquid 10 frame 4-5inches travel with instant geometry adjustment - Fox Talas R rear shock, flick the switch and change stroke and eye-eye length - Rockshox Psylo Race 125mm (5inch) - Shimano XT front mech - Shimano XT rear mech - Shimano XT disc hubs front and rear - Shimano Deore M555 Hydraulic disc brakes - Mavic 521sup rims - Azonic Love seat - Azonic Double wall 2” Riser Bar - Azonic Shorty Dlx Stem - FSA sealed headset - Bontrager Race ISIS cranks (Made by Truvativ) - DMR V12 pedals - Sachs PC99 chain - HG70 cassette - Maxxis Ignitor Tyres 2.3” Pictures: Just took these this avo. click the links at the bottom for more pics. http://slidecentral.rs-scooby.com/pics/Ben...ns/Liquid/5.jpg http://slidecentral.rs-scooby.com/pics/Ben...ns/Liquid/6.jpg http://slidecentral.rs-scooby.com/pics/Ben...ns/Liquid/7.jpg

Hey i have a brand new original GTR grille in factory wine red colour. it has never been installed on a car. still in the box $290 if you want it