bbenny

I have some really good pics thanks to my brother, but unfortunately im having trouble uploading them. so PM me your email if you want the pics. Ben.

A quick question to anyone reading this with adj cam gears (OS Giken in particular) how many degrees is each index mark on the slider? ie. 1 point (index) = 2degres??????? oh and a dummy one to make sure, turning anti-clockwise on the adjustments is retarding while clockwise is advancing? - just to be sure! Cheers! Ben.

hey a quick question to anyone reading this with adj cam gears (OS Giken in particular) how many degrees is each index mark on the slider? ie. 1 point (index) = 2degres??????? oh and a dummy one to make sure, turning anti-clockwise on the adjustments is retarding while clockwise is advancing? - just to be sure! Oh and while pulling it all apart i found the cause for my inlet being so tight! i just wonder now whether that was the main problem with the GTR cams for not holding idle!

i have pics, but cant seem to upload them, so email me if you want some

yeah basically anything aftermarket that allows you to play with ignition timing and fuel you should be sweet. unfortunately im too poor now

i can confirm it is the ECU flysky. because i checked and tried everything, there were no other causes. and SydneyKid has done several running a PFC with no problems and considerable gains. no probs with standard cams joel

Yep i think it is. Ive decided to bail on the cams as i just cant afford aftermarket management. otherwise it would be one kick-ass upgrade, i mean 25rwkw average increase for $300 is pretty damn impressive! so im a little dissapointed i cant pull it off with the std ecu

As new, current Turbosmart boost controler (bleed type) Indexed adjustment knob, works perfectly looks good in anodized red and chrome. so easy to fit its not funny. takes 5min to install reason for sale is i have upgraded to electronic system with several channels. $50. PM me if interested Ben.

As the topic says these are off an R33 GTR - have only done 30,000kms and are in immaculate condition. $280 - (I paid $350 for these last week) They are a fantastic upgrade for an RB20DET and give an average power increase of 25rwkw to an RB20 with a highflow or 2530 turbo. NOTE: this is a great upgrade for the RB20 if you have aftermarket management or someone to re-chip the ECU. I tried with a standard ECU and didnt have much luck. PM me if interested

I think i might give up on the idea. From what Sydney kid says, its a great upgrade with awesome results if you have an aftermarket computer to tune according the the cam change. However as i didnt have a new computer in my budget i think im going to pull the cams and just go adj pulleys. I would love to keep them and have an average 25rwkw power upgrade, but unfortunately i dont think its gonna happen with a standard ECU. So anyone out there with aftermarket management, mine are for sale $280 to who ever wants them. I paid $350 for them from T88 onboard, they have only done 30,000km. Everyone else who is doing them, let me know how its going. Ben.

just another quick question for you omp: where did you get the single outlet fittings that plug into the rocker covers? and do you know their size by any chance! thanks Ben.

As title suggests, im after a PAIR (in. & ex.) cam pulleys for RB engine. Let me know what you got! thanks Ben.

good stuff Mabru! is it holding idle at all? or still stalling after a bit of effort. have you taken it for much of a drive? let me know when you have time. i decided to get my rocker covers sprayed while its all apart. last night i managed to tear my finger right open and rip the nail off, so my poor little finger needs a break. so i wont have it back together till wed i think...

SK im also running an SAFC II but am having the ecu rechipped next week. i cant check the timing as i cannot hold idle at all. as i am already half way to the cams, please let me know what happens when you play with the SAFC at low rpm and idle Marbru! i would love to know before i pull these babies out and re-fit the standard items! thanks! Also, all my mechanical timing is spot on as is torque settings on clamps, as SK said i didnt think it was clamps after i went around the block and didnt see my timing belt snap as the cam seized! few! that would have been messy!

like youi Mabru, my weekend is mon tue. so i am slowly getting in an hour of dissasembly every night, im going to tripple check everything again, and if i still have the same prob i will have to revert to standard camshafts... maybe throw a set of adj pulleys instead. i just thought it would work easily as there is only about 1.8mm difference in lobe height between the std and GTR shafts... its just so frustrating because theoretically it makes alot of sense and should work well! one thing i was wondering, would it be possible to maybe sort out iddle issues with adj cam pulleys?

hey sydneykid i invested in a timing lamp today, i did adjust the CAS and it was a little better when advanced but still wouldnt hold idle it doesnt backfire or sound bad at all, when i drove the car around the block (taking it easy) it was extremely sluggish, i found that response was really poor at low rpm, even if i fully opened the throttle nothing would happen for some time till it reached 3000rpm but even after that point it was very slow. ylwgtr: i dont think ihave bent any valves because at no time did i rotate any of the cam shafts - i only noticed the stiffness of the in. cam when making a minor adjustment to align the pully marks. thanks for all the advice here guys, keep it comming, i will begin to pull it all apart again tonight and try see if i have missed anything. if it still doesnt work after rebuild no.2 i will throw the standard cams back in and see if i still have the problem. sydneykid: did all your installations have good idle or did you have similar problems??

well chiptourqe in Sydney want $1500 for my RB20 ECU i think $700 is pretty reasonable, i would be happy to pay that for someone who knows what they are doing. i know Toshi on this forum does some exchanges for about $200 for a new chip. the difference is he only changes some base settings, whilst a dyno tuner will setup the ECU specificallly for your car - and as you know everyones car behaves differently. I would say spend $700 on a professional to tune your ECU if you dont plan on any further modifications, otherwise go all out and buy a PFC you can get them for around $1000 for an RB20 on greenline or nengun now.

i dont think i dropped anything in, i was pretty meticulous doing this job. there are no strange noises to suggest there is a spanner in the works (literally). I only can think of a few things that are causing this. - either the fact the in.cam was difficult to turn is causing the problem. - the timing belt has jumped a tooth or so on start up (i doubt this) Considering they are a very mild cam upgrade compared to the standard items the ECU should be able to handle them. so im stumped here. i think ill pull the whole lot out and go back the the drawing board.

well it was noticably harder to turn... but then again that could be due to some of the lobes compressing a valve or two... I can only point to a few possibilities - either the in. cam is not turning free enough, as we have discussed. or the posibility that the timing belt jumped a tooth when i started the engine however i did turn the engine manualy 3 revolutions and check the timing marks on crank and cam pulleys... Its frustrating! I will disasemble the whole damn thing again and see if i find anything.

i played with the idle, but no adjustments made any difference. i did pull the throttle body off for the installation but i dont think that would be the cause. It runs fine when you give it some throttle. the only thing i see responsible is the stiff in. cam... i have tried just about everything else there is!

checled all vacume lines, they are all connected, doesnt blow any smoke either...

yeah i tried all that Ben and Joel, I just took it around the block then and it drives ok, feels a bit sluggish down low but starts to go hard by about 4000rpm, but i dont want to take it to high RPM or drive it too much just incase... but i drives, but will not hold idle.

yeah i think its more than just ECU, i noticed once the cams were installed that i could turn the ex cam very easily to adjust it to no1 TDC, however the in. cam was very stiff to turn in comparison, so just to double check i threw the standard cam back into position and if felt just as stiff... i think my problem stems from the inlet cam being very difficult to turn over and that causing the engine to stall at idle.

yeah i have tried everything everyone has mentioned here. the only thing i think could be causing it is the fact the inlet cam felt much stiffer to adjust than the exhaust. it was noticably harder to adjust, i think the engine is having trouble turning it over at idle and hence stalling. the only thing is, when i noticed this problem when fitting the GTR cam i decided to throw the standard item back in position to check there was nothing wrong with the GTR cam. But the standard one felt just as stiff...

it runs fine when i give it some throttle, i havent driven it yet, but it wont hold idle no matter what position the CAS is at, it dies out pretty soon. sometimes it starts, but most of the time it will turn over a few times then die out straight away. there are no strange noises, infact it sounds pretty sexy with a bit of throttle How do i reset the ECU?