bbenny

I used light emery cloth and heavy steel wool with soapy water, after paint over it with a heatproof paint. if you want it to look really cool paint it gold so it looks like you have some expensive two peice rotors.

i think you will have to concentrate on many other factors to get those times, suspension and tyre set up will be crucial. i was at WSID the other week and was disapointed to see a few R33 skylines running 14s with about 200rwkw. yet there was a dead stock S15 200sx running 13.4 all it had was a cooler, std turbo, std exaust, std airbox. Im busting to get mine out there. i have 210rwk at the moment, but stiff sus and 18"s so before i attempt anything im gonna throw std shocks in and standard tyres (unless someone loans me something better)

interesting. well i was running 1bar also. i have upgraded fuel pump and reg, but standard injectors. but i havent skimped on any of my other upgrades. i did use an SAFC II but didnt gain much up top with that, more midrange. i posted my dyno sheets etc after installing the 2530. and got 280rwhp (208rwkw) ill do a search and find it again, it was actually cutting out at around 5800rpm (maxing out AFM i signal think) otherwise ill re-scan it and post it tomorrow. My car has always made pretty good power, even with the standard turbo it made 220rwhp (165rwkw) at a dyno shoot, there were a couple of others running similar mods that didnt even get over 200rwhp. Could you think of any reasons why it makes more? not that im complaining! I guess your ECU probs are robbing you a fair bit of power. whats the prob with it?

well you can get a PFC from Nengun and Greenline for about $1,000 and quite a few workshops will tune the PFC for around $400-$500. If i had that sort of money for my engine management i wouldnt hesitate, unfortunately my budget on thie area is more like $750. and regarding turbo, i dont think there is a huge difference between the R33 and R34. well not enough to warrant spending $1500 on a rechip. just go buy a HKS2530 for that thats what i got, and im making 210rwkw on the standard ECU. will see what a tuned ECU can produce.

Yeah i hear good things about DR Drift, i think i spoke to him some time via the net regarding a re-tune. do you know what he charges? can you PM me his details? thanks!

thanks scott, please let me know your before and after results! ben.

Hey i really need to know who can rechip the standard ECU in an R32 GTS-T. In sydney preferably! I cant find anyone other than SAS, although i have heard nothing but good reports about their work, i really cant justify spending $1500 for a rechip, as its possible to buy and tune a PFC at that price. so anyone who knows a workshop in sydney that performs this work please let me know! cheers!

does it use the standard throttle body?

this isnt the first time i have seen this for sale i think. can i ask the reason for sale? and how did it perform on your car?

yeah SAS seems to be the only place i know in syd that remap the std ECU. except they charge around $1500. i could buy a new Power FC and have it tuned for that price. I dont really want to spend over a grand for a remap.

i would prefere sydney to save on shipping expenses.

Hey im after the standard shocks only for an R32GTS-T. some with good seals, no blown items. cheers. Ben.

pics please: [email protected]

Flaps, are you getting your standard ECU remapped? if so who are you taking it too? I need to get my ECU tuned before i can get out there as its maxing out the AFM at anything over 1bar. and has speed cut still.

bump. make an offer.

What turbo set up is everyone running here? Ive got a 2530 and just wonder what sort of gains to expect on a smallish turbo. I should be getting my cams this week too! I figure while its all apart it is the best time to throw some adj. cam gears, so ill get some of the OS Giken ones that are pretty cheap at the moment. so ill keep you posted.

PM sent

pics please! [email protected]

I have an AFM cut when i run anything over 1bar of boost. i think its maxing out the AFM signal to the ECU. only way to remedy this is to get a fuel cut defender or new/rechipped ecu. as for gapping the plugs, i gap mine at 0.8mm

bump.

Get a GTR! you cant compare the feel of a GTR to a GTS. the best part about a 32GTR is you can wire up a switch to switch between 4wd and 2wd so you can enjoy both styles of gts and gtr in a sense. GTR engines are damn strong along with the drivetrain. so it will be very reliable to everyday driving and responds well to modifications. GO GTR.

Ok i have decided to put together a tutorial for installing new discs. i thought this might help a few people, so they dont make the same mistakes I once did. Step one: Once you have safely jacked the car up and removed the wheel, pull out the brake pads. If unsure about this, Click here , for brake pad replacement/removal tutorial. Step two: Find the two caliper bolts at the rear of the caliper (see pic.) You may need a fairly long breaker bar to initially loosen the bolts as they are very tight. When you have removed the caliper from the mount be sure to rest it on a bench, on a suspension link (as in the picture) or just tie it up with string. It is important not to twist bend or hang the caliper by the brake line as it may damage the line. Step three: For the front disc it should easily slide off the hub. For the rear disc it may be a little more difficult, sometimes fusing to the hub or the handbrake (drum brake inside disc) holding it in position. Note: make sure the Handbrake is OFF or you will not be able to pull the disc off. Using the threaded holes here screw in two bolts (M8x1.25) into the hole. You will find they push the disc off the hub. After the initial bolt push the disc should simply slide off the hub and drum brake. It should look like this: Step Four: Ensure you clean the new disc's braking surface with brake cleaner or paint thinner to remove the anti-rust lubricant the manufacturer applies for storage. This lubricant can contaminate pads and seriously effect braking. Step Five: Simply slide the new disc over the hub and into position. Remember to fit rubber plug on the new disc. If your new disc didn’t come with one, just use the one from the old disc. Step Six: Gently slide the caliper back into position and tighten caliper bolts. (according to the R32 GTR manual 92-118Nm) Step Seven: slide brake pads back into position. Fit pins and clips. Sit in drivers seat and pump the brakes a few times until it feels firm again. Fit the wheel back on, and you are done! I hope this helps a few people. Ben.

Elithrar, they only produce the clear covers for RB26 not any other model. bugger for all us who cant afford the big gun.

Rapid Adjustable BOV. Sounds awesome, alot of people ask me what BOV i have as it sounds great. being adjustable you can set the preload for your particular car or change the sound from flutter to a whip/woootsh sound In awesome condition, no scratches or marks etc. see it here in my engine bay I can email better pics or close ups - i was having trouble uploading them today! $200 PM or email me [email protected] Ben.

OK well the time has come for me to stop talking and get it going. my only concern is fitting these things myself. if im going to do it myself i need to know whether im going to cause any damage or not! I have read into getting 1st piston to TDC. once i have done this, is it just a simple process of loosening the timing belt etc and pulling everything off and bolting the GTR cams in place? is there anything i should look out for. and while im at it would it be worth while going adj cam gears? (its begining to get expensive!) Sydneykid: what sort of gains would you expect to see with this mod. is it worth doing if im only running a HKS2530 turbo?