bbenny

well i checked all the alignment marks and they were spot on, i even turned the motor a couple of times manually and double checked to see they came back in the right spot...

i also noticed that the inlet cam was much harder to turn for slight adjustment than the exhaust cam...

thanks, but i am positive i put them back in the right order, they are numbered which makes it very easy.

nope dont have a timing light, planned on taking it to the workshop in the morn. i did refit the CAS in the marked area it was before. should i try turning it lightly just to see if i can get it to stay awake to at least limp it to the workshop?

Ok i installed some GTR camshafts in my RB20 today. also fitted a new timing belt. so here are my probs. when i installed the cams i noticed the inlet cam was much harder to turn than the exhaust cam when making small adjustments to align the cam gear marks for no.1 TDC after thinking maybe the new cam was bent i pulled it and installed the standard cam, but it felt just as stiff to adjust, so back in went the GTR cam. Now my problem is the car cannot hold idle without droping rpm and then dies now when i try to start the car it pretty much dies immediately. is this due to the "lumpy" camshaft or something else? any advice or help would be much appreciated. Ben.

Well im need of urgent advice. I have installed the cams and when i started the car it was fairly lumpy then the idle rmp drops and the engine dies out. Now when i start the car, it just immediately dies out! anyone got any ideas whats going on? Sydneykid? thanks!

Update on installation: All going well till about 8pm last night when i snapped one of the damn clamp bolts into the head! there is a noticable size difference between the GTR and standard cams, so ill be interested to see how it goes. Hopefully i can get this broken bolt out thismorn and find a replacement. I have decided against adj cam gears as i beleive i will need bigger injectors after installing these cams and winding some boost in. I will post "seat-of-the-pants" results later today, and hope to get a dyno run, either tomorrow or early next week.

haha you should work in retail sydney kid, you know too well what i want to hear any particular base setting you found worked well on the RB20? i might give it a try and see how it goes, the only thing is ill be doing it all at once, so i wont know whether it was better than the std cam gear or not. well i will let you all know how it goes hopefully by tuesday.

so what do all you guys think of adj cam gears? is it worth the extra expense? what are your experiences. i need info as i will be doing the cams this monday. cheers!

nice one mate! i bought the same thing and was pretty pissed when i opened it up! i am modifying mine in a similar way, except will add an external vent and filter, so i can block the PVC valve and save any crappy vapours going in the inlet. yours looks great!

Well i picked up my GTR cams and they are in unbeleivable condition (thanks T88 on board) they have only done 30,000kms and look fantastic. Re: adj cam gears Yeah its defenantly a convenient time to change, but also adds another $399 to this mod. if its only going to add maybe 5rwkw i wont bother but if it makes substantial gaines i will do it while its all apart. comsidering i just clicked over 100K kms the other day i will be fitting a new belt, and am now considering adj cam gears. do you think it would be worth while sydney kid or just put that $399 towards suspension tweaks for the quarter? thanks.

white R32 i will get back to you soon if i cant get some locals at that price cheers.

well i pick up my GTR cams today and will install them on my day off this monday, will book some dyno time hopefully on wed and then post the results for everyone! Sydney kid: would you recomend spending a few more $$ and going some adj cam gears? is it worth it or should i just throw the std cam gears onto the GTR camshafts??

As topic suggests, im after some standard suspension for drags. I have the std springs, so i dont mind if you only have the shock itself, but will pay for the complete kit if necessary. cheers. Ben.

robos - no, no and yes the only thing that bolt straight up are the manifold flange, exaust and intake pipe. i had to get fittings for all water pipes, oil lines and intercooler pipe. so it ends up costing a fair bit eav00l: Quote "if theree are anymore suggestions please let me know" Bendigo bank have some good interest rates if you deposit over $1000 get it in there and start saving

sydneykid they are some pretty awesome power gains considering the cost of gtr cams. if thats the case i think i will get these babies in before i get the ecu tuned. thanks for the info! oh and if its going to sound even better - hell yeah they are going in asap! hah armbrusb, im having trouble with the std AFM signal maxing out and shutting the whole party down at anything over 1bar... i need to have limiter removed and possibly a Z32afm

im not going to attempt to tune the SAFC to run a z32 AFM as i have heard to many horror stories of ppl attempting it. I am having the std ecu rechipped shortly so if i decide to upgrade the afm i will do it then. but i would prefer to not buy a new afm and upgrade to GTR cams and/or adj cam gears... but if it comes down to not being able to correctly tune the ecu without the afm upgrade, i guess i wont have any choice...

I didnt check autospeed but i got some a few weeks ago from supercheap auto in brookvale for $490 a pair (front and rear are the same price)

yeah i have mixed feelings about going Z32AFM. having done a fair bit of reading on the topic i have found there are two primary arguments for and against, and to me they both make alot of sense! the first is what you are describing jnr32r - that it is impossible to tune correct airflow readings at high boost/rpm because the std meter runs out of resolution. and installing the z32 (which uses a lower voltage reading) allows you to obtain accurate readings at high rpm. the other argument against the z32 is that if you have a decent tuner they should be able to tune your computer or ecu regardless, and ensure a safe A/F ratio. and the only time to replace is if the factory AFM size is restricting flow. So i dont know which to go, obviously if i can get someone to safely tune without the z32 i can save good $$ for other mods, however if it means piece of mind and insurance on my engine... what does everyone think!

wicked results mate! good to hear you have sorted most of those Wolf probs. I will have my ecu retuned shortly and will post my results for comparison as all my mods are very similar to yours.

I know you dont want to hear it, but even getting everything 2nd hand will come to more than $1,300. doing the turbo thing isnt cheap! when i did mine, like you i didnt want to spend much at all, but it just isnt possible. getting a small turbo (2530) needed the fuel pump and regulator to be changed, not to mention small things we all like to forget when performing this upgrade, like oil and water fittings for the turbo, intercooler pipe modification exhaust/dump mods, the list goes on. i thought after i spent $1500 on my turbo that there wouldnt be much more to spend on the transplant - $500 in fittings and line - $300 for a reg - $400 for a pump $200 cooler pipes. it ends up getting pricey regardless of whether you go new or 2nd hand. Maybe put the money away and save a little more so you can do it right the first time, it gets even more expensive when you have further plans down the track... good luck with what ever decision you make!

Skyzer, yeah it doesnt completelty close the bleeder and therefor boost wouldnt drop below 1bar. I just got an EBC, so i dont have those problems anymore. if you want accuracy i think EBC is the only way to go. good luck mate.

I had the same problem with mine, and i have heard of many other ppl not being able to run anything under 1bar on them. I revalved mine by fitting a machined piece of metal and resizing the bleeder valve hole (if that makes any sense) basically i restricted bleeding and it allowed me to run lower boost than 1bar.

perfect! thanks guys, i lost the instructions, and dont have a pressure gauge need a bit more pressure before my dyno tune

i cant remember exactly what i paid, i think it was $290 I just checked greenline, and they have them for $180, but you need to get the adaptor for nissan, so add another $20 either way they are pretty cheap.