bbenny

yeah i read a recent article in Zoom i think, where they strapped a heap of turbos to a CA motor and the GTRS was dam impressive... i havent read a bad report about them on any motor. and considering its response is similar to the 2530 but flows more than the 2540 it sounds like an awesome upgrade. I have a friend living in japan at the moment, so i will either get him to source one for me or check them out myself when im next over there. they are charging about $5000 retail over here for them! thats crazy.

well i have had a fair bit of experience with Both my 225rwkw GTS and a GTR with similar power and the GTR will always feel faster, it has a more usable power range, it has punch from really down low all the way up top, where my GTS doesnt really punch till about 3,500 - 4000rpm. launching a GTR is just awesome, the g-force feel is unbeleivable and really freaks out passangers that arent ready for it but the slide action of a GTS is also really fun. I have also played with a GTR running over 300rwkw and that is better than sex... and have been a passanger in a GTR running 450rwkw and thats just stupid!

I have heard that the GT-RS is rated at 400ps but has better response than the 2540 will the exhaust dump on these T3 models match up to the standard patern? Im seriously considering one of these for my RB20 (which is making 300rwhp with a 2530) - how much mid range would you expect to loose with one of these? I want to make about 350rwhp and considering the GT-RS flows 20% more than the 2530, i guess on paper i should be able to produce 350-360rwhp. would that be possible? has anyone had experiences with these even if its on an SR20 or RB26?

Hey it looks like ill be selling mine shortly as im in the process of getting the new GT-RS turbo released in T3 atire. My 2530 is in mint condition, only ever run at 1bar (ran1.2 on a dyno once and it produced 300rwhp on my RB20) used it for around 15,000km anyway i will sell it as soon as the new turbo arrives so i can drive the car. looking at around $1400

im interested in one if they are a bolt-on, as i have already invested in exhaust dump and T3 turbo all to fit in the standard position.

im keen for one of the GT-RS T3 babies, see just how much difference there is between it and the std 2530

most exhaust shops can do it, but if you wanna really do it on the cheap and ensure you get exactly what you want - do it yourself. you can buy stainless, mild steel and aluminium mandrel bends in all shapes and sizes from your local metal shop or even exhaust shop. work out roughly what you need, and cut the bends and straights to the length you want, then take it to an exhaust shop or someone you know who can TIG weld. best thing to do is use a pipe clamp as a cutting guide to ensure you get a perfectly straight cut, and maybe buy a new hacksaw blade or two to ensure a perfect cut. im doing mine right now, only cost be about $95 for the pipe (stainless) and $40 for the welding. not bad considering two local workshops quoted me $900 and $750 to do the job

open wheeling is when your diff acts like a std diff and one wheel can openly wheelspin as aposed to an LSD (limited slip diff) which only lets one wheels spin a little before the other wheel kicks in also... Anyway yesterday i was having a bit of a play on the old pacific hwy and managed to feel my diff open wheel a few times, its a bit spasmodic really, doesnt always happen... but like yogi asked, im also interested to know exactly what they do to your diff when they "shim" it etc...

it could possibly be aftermarket cam pulleys, i heard a story similar to this some time ago, a completely stock car that wouldnt take any timing at all without major detonation, after trying everything they decided to check the timing belt and found that there were some aftermarket cam pulleys, with some messed up settings dialed into them. open her up and have a look.

it all depends on lift as to whether they work with hydro lifters or not. i think there is a 0.9mm increase in lift with the GTR cams over std, but i think anything over 9.5mm (not 100% if its exactly 9.5) and the hydraulic lifters need to be changed to a solid lifter kit.

Hey mate, Sorry to hear you have written the car off.. how much are you looking for the motor? I couldnt work out whether you are selling the bottom end and head seperately or as complete. anyway i am interested in it complete or bottom end. can you please PM me the price and also price on twin plate OS clutch. Cheers mate Ben.

so i was looking at the BF goodridge site and there are two different drag radial models, have you guys had any experience with either or know which is the better of the models?

well when i had the GTR cams in (apart from not holding idle) when i drove the car it was super laggy down low, and didnt come on very hard at high rpm... which is what R31 power is describing. there were no other issues with my engine as when i re-fitted the std cams the car was back to perfect running order

jnr32r, that last one where i didnt wheelspin at all was my fastest 60ft time, with the 205 tyres i was using it meant i would either have loads of spin or bog down a little in order to hold traction, like adrian says its all about the tyres for that first 60ft, if i get some decednt drag radials i should be able to improve the time dramatically. what 60ft times were you getting with the falken and the nittos adrian?

yeha i need some tyres, what size were your nittos adrian? was it you with them mounted on std R32 wheels? who knows the cheapest place in syd to get nittos? ive got the bug now... so next time ill have some decent tyres and i think i will run less than 50L of fuel like i managed on wed ...idiot

joel, my diff is in nee of a service desperately, its nothing like when i first got the car, also my left rear shock that i borrowed was blown, i noticed when i got there it was pissing out oil, and worked like a pogo-stick most of the time. so maybe diff and suspension would make a difference. im also interested in the simex's tyres, tell me more i did notice that one of the guys i ran against ran a 12.2 ET and he had the same 110mph through the traps as me, but is 60ft was like 1.7

well i got out and had a blast last night at WSID. it was my first time ever down the quarter and it was awesome. i was a little dissapointed with my times, i just couldnt hook up a good 60ft time. so next time i will be running some better shoes i think. this time i was running the std 16" wheels with 205 continental crap tyres at 20psi it was good to see a bunch of forum guys out there too, thanks for all the advice too! my best pass was 13.5 ET 2.3 60ft 110mph what do you guys think would be possible if i could get a better 60ft?

yeah i was a little dissapoined actually... my excuse is all tyres, need some better and wider rubber, the crap standard tyres and wheels wouldnt hook up. i ran a 13.5 @110mph i plan to go out again with some decent tyres, anyone want to lend me some?

haha yeah i was leaning towards the 16s. dont worrry troy i have spent way to much money on my car to make it brake and turn well to forget about that. i will let you know how it all goes.

Hey everyone, Im going for my first ever street meet at WSID tonight and need some advice on which tyre/wheel combo i should use. My choices are: 18" rims with a 225/40 Falken tyre or 16" std rims with 205/55 Continental tyre should i go wide but low profile or slightly more narrow with higher profile?? all opinions would be great! thanks.

timing light should be correct regardless as you are retarding the camshaft only, ignition timing should read whatever you set it at.

while on this topic of timing i find now that i have installed the adj cam gears, my car loves to have some highly advanced timing like 30deg adv! is that strange? i moved it back to 25 but it feels like a slug compared to 30, however the engine note is a little smoother.... the adj pulleys are 2deg advanced on inlet and 3deg retard on exhaust.

i think its a Vertex kit. unfortunately i think jetspeed are the vertex distributor...

hey mic i would say its a combination of all 3, i do have stiff coilovers, but it wouldnt matter if i had sponges in there because the offset is perfect so nothing can touch. I think the 7.5 will be sweet, because i still have to stretch the 225/40 over my rim to ensure it doesnt rub the guard, i could prob go a slightly wider tyre, but not much, so go the 7.5 with the 225 and it will be sweet. maybe even consider 17" if you plan on track or drag, but 18" does look the best

i had the same prob with my old std wheels and found that going hard with autosol metal polish made them look like new, i would do that once every 6 months. you might use a whole tube for all your wheels, but its much cheaper than paying a wheel refurbisher to do it. otherwise i have once had some rims powder coated, doesnt cost much at all, i think it was about $200 for all 4. but after about a year or two i noticed some cracks in the paint, so maybe its not a long term thing.