BOOSTMEISTER

Unless you know EXACTLY what you are doing or someone else does NEVER EVER inject anything into the intake. This is for serious tuners only and is a true receipy for disaster if not done corectly. On a road car the expense of setting up a good spray system is similar to haveing a dump made for the turbo and that will provide much higher gains, on the road you will be likely to forget about it after a week or so anyway. I have had one in two cars of mine and never noticed any difference. Only time I did was in my mates turbo starlet with top mount, that helped heaps until water got down around the plugs

Clint....how can you make that power on stock injectors? Even the cleanest set will only flow enough for 220rwkw, I am not doubting you its just that I am curious. Browny, here are the specs to my old RB20DET 215rwkw (220rwkw with special fuel) ARE front mount intercooler (500x300x75) VG30 non ball bearing turbo with ceramic exh. wheel @ 14psi HKS Cam gears 3.5" exhaust from turbo including dump APEXi S-AFC Blitz Access ecu (any tuned rom is fine) HKS Air filter Other things to take into consideration: Oil catch can Clutch I drove the car every day and it was fine, the vg30 doesn't change the power point too much in fact I rathered it as most times around town I was only just on boost so fuel economy was great. You can also read the thread I started about 250rwkw from a RB20 to get another idea

Turbo to intercooler connection may be slightly different, depends on the vg30 used. Yes the oil feed line is the only one that needs replacing. The turbo is slightly lagier as it has a bigger comp wheel and cover.

May I ask if they actually said the brakes are to smaller diameter or they weren't legal....the reason I ask is that normally the measurement they check is the thickness of the disk and most of the 32's I have seen (Mine included) all have a sizeable lip on the rotor due to wear. Perhaps you just need some second hand 32 gtst disks that are the correct thickness, just a thought? Also in Australia I understood that all the wheels need is that funny little embossed symbol on the rim that states that it has passed certain design rules and that is enough to pass it, I just bought a set of rims for my new car and they are made in australia by ROH and they don't have the size marked on them.

My guess's....missing/broken exhaust manifold stud/bolt/nut OR perhaps the a/c pulley has seized, that's the two things that happened to mine and they both made the above mentioned noise.

I haven't seen it but chances are that it isn't the bov you can hear as most of the big jap cars use external wastegates and they can make a very awesome sound when they partially open then shut when someone is on and off the throttle. Just a guess.

Well I would love to have another go (Loved the prev. 2) but I believe you need a car that can actually get the rears spinning and with my new tyres that just aint goin to happen. For anyone who is STILL unsure....HAVE A GO ITS HEAPS OF SAFE FUN.

OH and while I am at it PS = pferdestärke German word for horsepower, meaning the metric horsepower. The symbol ps is used for horsepower in both the Japanese and German automotive industies. HP = Horse power (Metric Horse power) a unit of power, defined to be the power required to raise a mass of 75 kilograms at a velocity of 1 meter per second. This is approximately 735.499 watts or 0.986 32 horsepower. The unit is also known by its French name cheval vapeur or its German name pferdestärke.

psi, psia, psid, psig traditional symbols for pressure units used in hydraulics and plumbing. psi is a symbol for pound per square inch (see above). psig is a symbol for pound per square inch gauge; this means that the pressure has been read from a gauge which actually measures the difference between the pressure of the fluid and the pressure of the atmosphere. psia means pound per square inch absolute, which is the total pressure including the pressure of the atmosphere. psid, pound per square inch differential, is a symbol for a difference between two pressures, neither of which is atmospheric pressure. Corresponding symbols for pound per square foot (psf, etc.) are also used.

Good work EX I thought the rims looked good considering the headlight chroming also is as bright. Nice colouring as well.

Don't put it on. No matter how we tuned mine it made either no overall power increase or it actually lost power. 1. Turn it up = over fuel down low and loss of power for launch making your car slow (BAD) 2. Turn it down = OK down low but you will run out of fuel up top making your car slow (BAD AS WELL) Basically they aren't much good unless you are Japanese and love to have a madly overfueling 500hp+ drag car and as such just need maximum fuel all the time.

I ran 1 bar constantly on my ceramic exhaust wheeled vg30 turbo and it was fine as it doesn't actually have to spin at the same rpm as the stock one to produce the same psi

Sounds like the fuel reg IS increasign pressure and thus your injectors are pumping harder, this should increase the duty cycle of the injectors. Personally I don't go for adjustable regs, you really don't need it, just get a big pump and all will be good. I have seen so many people with Malpassi regs remove them and just fit a bigger pump. If you absolutely must have a RR Reg then go for the Bosch one it is much more tunable.

I can say this now as I don't own it any more. I recon my old 32 was a very sweet looking car and fairly quick too 13.7 (faster if driven right )

Dont be so tight buy a whole new one, you have heaps of cash

He has run up to 22psi with the stock internals I think full boost is around 6300 with redline at 8500

Previous blue looked more convincing

The other thing is that this turbo is laggy nothin till 4000 then hold on to ya hat Ma, it all happens rather speedily

To be honest most of the rb20 housings (EXH) will be cracked, all the ones I have seen have been so sourcing another one is better. The turbo for Lukes car cost around the $1800 mark but we did source a number of parts and this did include a new oil feed and machined manifold

I actually had the original 1992 Nissan Skyline brochure from Japan totally in Japanese of course and a friend read some of it to me. It was quite detailed about the differences and did include what I mentioned above I just can't remember the others. A point to remember is that there were some minor changes to the general line up during the production period so a 1990 Type-M may be a totally different car to the 92 Type-M My comment was based on the 92 onward R32 Gts-t Type M.

I have always used Pennzoil but Shell bought it out and now they are mixing in their blends..... Will start using a new brand that has a base so pure that it is totally clear infact the oil is sooo good they don't make synthetic as it doesn't compare to the normal stuff.

Actually all gtst's came with 5 studs but the main differences with a TRUE M-Spec is the car has side and rear skirts as well as a slightly different bumper, it also has different trim plastic inside and the dash vinyl is also different. There is aparently over 200 differences on the Type M acording to the Japanese NEW CAR catalogue.

Is your fuel pump up to the task ? Mine wasn't and even at a touch over stock it would lean out at boost. I had a BLITZ ecu on my 32 and it was awesome and never had any problems ?

Very nice indeed, keep the wing OFF, 17's or 18's look great but the 17's may offer a little more traction than the 18's for launching, when I bought my 32 I wanted white and I still think it looks sweet.

The vid is by MAX Power and is called "Beasts from the east" for those who care. You can buy from Pitstop bookshop on line.