BOOSTMEISTER

Joe, what management have you got? GTR injectors will not work on standard management.

Yeh true, thats cool, I would never pay 2K for a cooler either, mine was $1100 but thats about my peek.

Joe I cut off the two small outlets on the cam cover tubes and welded them up then I ran two long hoses off the big ones to a oil catch can. You can see them in this pic You are right about the plenum, I was going to do the front mount idea as well till I spoke a an engineer who does a lot of carbon work for rally and indy cars and who also makes carbon throttle bodies and ram tubes and he had a look at my plenum when it was off the car. He said that the internals were designed to spread the air flow out when it comes in from the side and because it doesn't taper off toward the back then the 2.3.4 cylinders will run rich and 1.5.6 will be lean. Unless you are running 15psi + this may or may not be a good idea to mod the plenum. Clint, I am very keen to see your results. I am working on my own custom plenum at the mo which I hope to be able to offer you guys at a good price but I haven't the cash right now to get stuck into it.

Very cool vid, very cool, must say that I think I like the R33 GTR best out of all the GTR's (not just in that vid but in general) They look fatter from behind:D

Here it comes then....mmmmm 52kb/sec nice.

Thats it

Before I download is it the silver 33 gtr driven by that old Japanese dude? Cause I have it.

Wooo up there mate, I was not attacking you on a personal level, sorry if it came accross that way.... Is yours a Bar & Plate cooler like the ones in their magazine adds? Most of the Jap ones are not B&P but are tube and fin and there for the tube size is a different matter. What I was saying was that the ones I have seen from HYBRID in the B&P config have really open tubes running through the core, this is why a cooler that size has so little pressure drop. I think AVO use the same cores (Garrett truck B&P cores) so you are right in saying they look the same. Its not how they look from the outside but how in internals are constructed and whether they are really open or not.

Exellent pipe routing choice:D This is a very good way to do it as the nicely cooler air has less distance to travel once its gone through the cooler, good work, engine bay still looks stealth.

I am going to be very nasty here but it must be said. HYBRID coolers are made from Garrett truck cores (Bar & Plate) Yes they do only have a small pressure drop but this is due to the very large tubes inside the core. What this means is that at higher psi (13 or higher) there overall efficiency falls off wuite rapidly as the air doesn't have time to cool as well. A well sized tube and fin cooler is the way to go. The ARE item on my mates RBS13 reduced the ambient air temp of 27oC to only 4oC at the throttlebody. While lack of pressure drop is important it is more important that the cooler actually cools well. It may be possible for Turbomad to actually make MORE power with a better cooler. At the end of the day it is your money and your car. MOST aftermarket coolers are better than the stock one but be carefull, buying a bar and plate cooler with those dimentions for only $880 means it must be lacking in some areas. If you don't intend on running more than 13psi all the time then it will probably be OK. Just make sure the inside of the tanks are welded as well as the outside or the end tanks can litterally tear apart. Also make sure it doesn't leak. NO Garrett core is designed to be 100% leak free (this is from Garrett them selves) so ensure it is pressure tested before you buy ANY cooler, it takes great skill and time to repair cores so make sure it is done by someone who knows what they are doing.

This years Jamboree at Willowbank on the 21st of September will see the inclusion of import 6 cylinders. I am racing my R32 and my mate will race his S13 (RB20DET). We have spent a lot of time on the dyno of late and have finally got the HKS cam gears dialed in to perfection. We were able to get 15rwkw EXTRA right accross the rev range which took the power figure for the RBS13 to 232rwkw @ 18psi. My car will go in this week for the gears to have their final tune and the timing advanced for more power and torque. I have also made some significant changes to my car since I last ran. On my last run (13.7) I had my TEIN suspension which prevented the rear of the car from squatting thus stopping vital weight transfer. I have since replaced these with some stock shocks and springs, the car really squatts and launches much better and the general ride is heaps softer but cornering is not quite as good. After Jambo I will fit bigger sway bars and slightly lowered springs while still maintaining the rate. The second area of attention was the tyres. I have 18" rims and would like to keep them on for the drags to show the true performance in street trim. On my last run I had 235/40/18 FALKEN ZE326 tyres which were badly worn and on a huge negitive camber so grip was not good and prevented me from launching over 3000rpm. I have replaced these with 235/40/18 FALKEN ST115 AZENIS which are nice and sticky and should solve the traction issue as well as possible without going to semi slicks. The third area was the clutch, a new custom built DCS ultra heavy duty single plate was made and installed and now the car drives like a new car.....I now know how much power I was loosing through undetectable slip. Chirping third when driven hard the clutch is only 1 week old and will be good for some quick times at the drags. The final thing I have changed is the top intercooler pipe from the throttle body to under the battery, the original one had a couple of small leaks and now with the new one installed the car is pulling really hard. After the dyno tune this week I will post the findings. I have decided to run a higher ron fuel for Jambo as the qualifying is during the day and I don't want to risk any detonation in the heat. I am also removing my cat and dumping the exhaust out under the car for that added sound effect (has no effect on performance) I wish everyone luck at Jamboree and hope to catch up with you all. Cam & the DUEL guys.....

INASNT Yes I believe that is correct as well as the V-Spec II R32 GTR coolers. Zahos I think it was on AUTOSPEED.COM I will have a look through some saved links and see if I can find it, it was a good test with a number of coolers tested.

Here you go PRIZE Just like I said....a big prize:lol: :lol: :lol: Dam i am funny and its so early:DThanks for that.

OK check these pics out matey's. Yes it is a R34 JTC and NO that isn't a RB26DETT, I don't know what it is but it has got me intrigued......BIG PRIZE for the first to find out.:uh-huh:

Actually the GTR cooler isn't a B&P cooler infact it uses the same core design as the stock 32 gtst cooler only bigger. I have read a few tests and have found that a VR4/EVo cooler is just as good infact in some tests it rated higher.....Richard from ARE told me that the VR4 cooler is a very good design and is probably the best flowing factory cooler available.

Here are the pics Meggala was talking about. $220 for the pice from the throttle body to next to the battery. 1 week turnaround, money in bank before starting, mild steel, oxy welded, add $20 for powder coat.

On a 33, a well designed dump pipe in 3.5" can yeld 30hp so its worth every cent. INASNT is spot on with the price. The laser cut will probably add another $50 or so if you are lucky.

If they were the same dollars then go for the ARE item, if the ARE item is a small amount more then still buy it, if the GReddy one is heaps cheaper then go for it. The ARE one has HPC coated pipes which is one of the main reasons for the price, it is worth it. I am a huge supporter of ARE products as many on here would know, I do believe that they make the best product in OZ by far and will continue to support them. I (DUEL) have purchased 6 coolers from them ranging from their base model to a fully custom one with PRO options.

Right you are....why didn't I think of that;) Now to do a colour change post.......for a safer colour for the elderly of course.

I'm thinking....what do you want to know how to do? Its hard to do it at work especially if the image is a car ( I have run out of excuses as to why I am working on a car pic and yet I work at a retirement village)

cut the wire to the afm signal and just leave the power and earth wires attached. The only good side is that if you neede heaps of fuel all the time OR need a lot less fuel all teh time then its fine but unfortunately because its either + or - for the entire rev range and a turbo car can need different amounts of compensation at different times thats why it no good.

We have a calendar...........oh, there it is cool:D

I have told someone else this and I will tell you. Remove it and sell it to some unknowing sucker (or place in bin) These are very bad for your car as they only adjust fuel over the entire rev range so off boost you sill be running rich etc. I made more power with mine removed than I did with it in so discard it asap. I am serious, they will do more harm than good, it was the first ever afc and did the job of increasign fuel but it is very course and not engine friendly.

Very um pinkish:D nah it looks good and would have endless possibilities with colour variations in PS

The height of the car will be measured from the ground to the lowest point of the car except the wheels and the backing plate on the brakes. (QLD law) 100mm is the legal limit and a good hieght. Skylines aren't meant to be dumped, it screws them up, they were not designed that way + your tyres will wear real bad like mine did.