(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

LMAO! She will probably think it is the week after when it is actually on...

I am free most nights except Tuesday and Friday... But I can make adjustments. So, so far I am not fussed what day...

No worries! Let us know how you go with the car.

I see, It's not too far for me either, might just drive by and check it out. High pressure hose is best for a decent rinse. So the owner has a Lamborghini ey... Must look into buying a Car Wash business...

Good! Getting you mechanic to do a full inspection on the car will give you a peace of mind and let you know if it's good of not. You do have some quality upgrades there, here is a quick run down of what they do... Nismo GT-R Bodykit, the R32 GTR front bar has air vents to allow air flow to the FMIC and give the car decent look. East-Bear Bonnet, has a vent to allow the heat out of the engine bay. Koyo Radiator will keep your water temps at a lower / steadier temp so the car does not get too hot at the same time keep the lower temp more stable for longer spirited / track runs. GReddy Spec LS Front Mount Intercooler for better air flow and cooling into the inlet plenum. You may experience a slight lag due to the front mount (on stock Boost) but if you are running higher boost, you won't notice it. Trust Airinx Pod Filter for more air to go into the turbo, but can suck in hot air and you don't want that. Best shield off the pod or put the stock air box back on. GReddy Oil Catch Can collects blow-by gasses that can create damaging carbon and oil sludge build-up in your intake including your intercooler. For Mid to Highly modified cars, if your car is stock, you won't need it. Apexi "Pencil Type" Turbo Timer, as explained in my last post. Swoosh Boost & Oil Temp Gauges - Dual Gauge Holder, aftermarket gauges are more accurate then the stock gauges, lets you keep track of your turbo boost pressures and oil temps. RS-R* Piping from Dump to Cat Trust MX Exhaust Cat Back ^^ You got a full/turbo back exhaust system to allow better exhaust flow and you will gain a bit of power there. KYB Short Stroke Struts, great for handling and as they are Short Stroke, the car will sit lower = lower centre of gravity, better control you have over the car = the faster you can turn corners. King Springs, these will be harder then the stock ones and will add to the handling as mentioned above. Endless Carbon Brake Pads, I think you have these pads in, "The Endless CC-A compound is a Ceramic Carbon Brake Pad that provides superb pedal feel. Designed to exhibit none of the negative characteristics that ceramic carbon compounds are known to have, such as low friction at lower temperatures, the CC-A compound has excellent cold bite while producing minimal amounts of dust and noise. The Endless CC-A pads do all this while still being friendly to rotors, perfect for a high performance street pad." - http://www.endlessusa.com/brakepad/cc-a/ Higher quality pads then standard. A stock R32 GTS-T is about 158kW's at the fly wheel (I think), from memory you lose about 25% through out the drivetrain + every dyno will have a different reading. To be honest I can't say how many kW's the car will have, but at the moment the exhaust will be the one giving most of the power upgrade. (15-20 Kw's) maybe... If the car is running stock boost, then the air pod and FMIC will give it a few more kW's but nothing huge. I can easily say this car has probably seen a few track days / drift events. So your doing the right thing by getting it checked out and get your mechanic to check the turbo as well. Cool!

Up / down Hill Grip race ey... Sound good. Give the AE86 and NS fellas a good run LOL! Yeah I was the Asian guy driving the Grey R32 GTR and Josef was riding passenger in my car.

Yes, the Ferrari Sextarossa is an all time favourite.

Is that the one next to the Apple Peal / big 3 lane round about?

Hey! Looks tuff as! Front needs to be lower, haha! I like the URAS badges and what size wheels and how much offset you got?

Red looks best!

A nice list of upgrades it's got there. The main thing is, what is the condition of the engine, turbo, mechanics and electrics..? Get it checked out and test drive it. By driving the car you will be able to tell if there is any uncertainties of the car. Turbo Timers are there so you can let your car sit and idle, saving you from waiting a few minutes. + you can set the alarm/lock up and the car will only switch off when the count down is finished. Cool-down period required to prevent premature turbo wear and failure. After a period of driving when a turbocharger has been working hard, it is important to let the engine run at idle speed for a period of time, allowing the compressor assembly to cool from the lower gas temperatures in both the exhaust and intake tracts. At the same time the lubricating oil from the engine is able to circulate properly so the turbine won't burn the lubricating oil that would otherwise be trapped within the charger with the turbine rotating at high speed. - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbo_timer

Just make time and put the effort "IN"...

Hey Peter! I like both cars you mentioned, As for a Daily, you'd figure the S14 would be better on fuel with less 2 cylinders... But your buying a performance car, no such thing as fuel economy. The cars are quite easy to drive in stock form, once modified, its a different story. For Track, Circuit or Drift? R32 would have more top end and I find the Silvia's are more tail happy for drift. They both can do the job, just depends on how you set the cars up. In the mean time, learn to drive a manual, last thing is you want to stall it after giving the car full stick. BTW your Roman's friend yeah..? I think I met ya at Campbellfield after the big Skyline cruise.

Fcuk! I would have went nuts! All is fixed now, I hope...

Have the sexual relation then come to the Show 'n Shine.

DK! Where have ya been buddy?! Hope all is good man, did you have to get your car towed to the mechanic?

Yes, you do have a warranty within a year, if anything goes on you, BUT... What happen to me was when my turbos went I was not covered (Even though I got a warranty) I did not get my car serviced through the dealer, I did it myself and when the time came to use my warranty, the warranty company turned around and said, "We have no service history of what has been done to the car". Warranty VOID! So when you do get a warranty, do all your servicing through the dealer, so they can keep a track / history of the car and keep the Warranty company upto date, just to be on the safe side, until it has expired, then do everything yourself (or your mechanic). Cool! Let us know how you go about the R32

^^ You could probably buy a turbo off the forums, I have seen from about $500+ ... (2nd hand, hardly used, reconditioned) You could recondition your old one $500 - $1000 (Approx).

On the way home from work, I spotted a black R34 GTR with plates GTAHHH. (something like that) going through the round about next to Main Drive in Kew.

No worries! Things to look out for in the R32 is the same thing you would do with the M3, they are both over 10 years old and you will have to be on the look out for things that need to be changed. There is a lot to list of what to look out for but your main concern is the engine condition, brakes, drivetrain, mechanics, electronics etc... Japanese imports are bound to be thrashed, so the main concern for the R32 is the condition of the turbo. Get it checked out before you buy it or just wait till it goes and be prepared to fix it. Either find a stock R32 or buy one that has work/upgrades done to it. Preferably with low Km's and get your mechanic to check it out. You'd figure an owner with the income to afford M3 would be a "more mature" (I am Stereotyping) baby the car and be in a very good condition, but you never know... You will still need to pay Attention to engine condition, brakes, drivetrain, mechanics, electronics etc. Any car will last, you just need to keep up the general maintenance. Yes a GTR would be the better comparison to the M3 as they are more inline-ball with performance / handling.

^^ GODZ1LLA BMW E36 M3 (92 - 95 models) came with 3.0lt engines. Euro and USA BMW E36 M3 (96 - 99 models) came with 3.2lt engines. Euro and USA I think only the Euro 96 - 99 models were upgraded to the 6 speed manual and USA stayed with the 5 speed. R32 GTS-T vs E36 M3 = To different cars, but are performance cars in their own way. Eg. E36 for circut, R32 for drift... Both can be modded for what ever purpose you want. A R33 GTS-T is a step up from the R32 GTS-T as it already has an extra 500cc so you will get a lot more torque / pulling power from the R33 GTS-T + it being modded. I really do like the shape of the E36 M3 and R32. IMO till today it still a great looking car The performance of the M3 is decent as you could put it up against a few V8's (in that time '96 - '99) and give'em a good run. The R32 will have a different characteristic due to a smaller engine but the fun of the turbo kicking in. I say test drive both and see what you think and make your decision from there. I believe the R32 will be cheaper on parts and maintenance. This might help... M3 Evolution Imola Individual (M3 GT2) The M3 Evolution Imola Individual was a limited-edition (200 units for Europe with part VIN WBACB5103-AN307--, 50 for the United Kingdom) car sometimes referred to as the M3 GT2. The engine and performance characteristics of the car were unchanged from the 1996+ euro M3, and a special exterior and interior colour combination was once again chosen by BMW; Imola red (405) paint with Nappa leather & Amaretto seats in Imola red and anthracite seats. It also included side airbags, the M3 GT Class II rear spoiler, front class II corner spoiler extensions, electric seats, and double-spoke polished alloy wheels. Prior to the release of the Imola Individual there was a pre-production model made which was used as the basis of the special edition, it featured the Class II front and rear spoilers, special order Imola red Paint, special order Nappa + Anthracite Amaretta interior, SMG gearbox, GSM Phone Kit, headlamp washers and double-spoke polished alloy wheels. - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M3#E90.2F92.2F93_M3

Nice fitment and welldone with the offset sizing. Looks nice and neat. Lower it about an inch more and it look mad!

I had replaced both my O2 sensors from my mechanic. They are about $100 each and not hard for them to fit. Aftermarket should do you fine as that's probably what I got in atm and all is good.

Interesting... I had a Nismo Timing Belt when it came with the car, it seem to have run fine. So down the long run of a Nismo Timing Belt, would it cuz issues? Reason I changed back to the Nissan OEM belt is cuz I did not know how many K's the Nismo one had done, so to be on the safe side, I wanted a decent item and genuine was the way to go IMO. So Nissan OEM belt is a winner!

These are fun, I have a Mini R34 GTR made by Tomy (Japan)