Sir Lord Van Von Vader'ham

thanks mate, sill a wip. but yeah, theres a 2in gap at the top.

Thanks Mungy More progress One piston on the rear right calliper has seized at some point and has been pushing the rotor into the calliper, So I rebuilt the rear callipers during last week and bled the system on the weekend. Very happy as I made my own line from the bias adjuster to the rears after I removed the hydro. Pedal is a lot firmer than it has been in some time Also gave them a paint to match the fronts. Rolled out the car to bleed the coolant, bought a cool vacuum purge kit to do it but my air compressor is piss weak. Ended up doing it the old fashioned way, by raising the front and running the car. This led to another issue, ive have to rev the car to 2500rpm to get the alternator to kick in, now with the underdriven pulley its has to go to around 3500. Didn’t know this and ran it off the tiny battery. lasted about 10 min and wouldn’t restart, lol… quick jump start and rev and the battery charged itself enough in a couple of minutes to be able to restart again. Made the rear diffuser, out of a scrap - 31life, but I think it’ll work well. Goes from the subframe, sticks out about 50mm past the bumper and has a 9deg upswept angle. just needs the rear mounts to be made. Again not many pictures as I only have so much time to get everything done on the wend. I'll get a pic tonight of it on the ground.

i want to try and get to SMSP by the end of the month too

haha Ive done it a few times but never really happy with the results, im not accurate enough. this time im just getting a shop to do it.

oh right, yes it can. I meant i was giving them a coat of paint

Yep, mac strut. Only issue with toe at the rear dan is my car has semi trailing arm irs, every time the suspension moves the alignment changes drastically. from static to full bump is something like .5mm to 12mm a side. same with camber

rightio, thanks duncan getting an alignment next week, I think this should be ok Front, -3deg camber, 1mm total toe out, 5deg castor Rear, -1.5 camber, 1mm total toe in ( till i hit a bump, then 11ty camber and toe)

awesome progress mate, cant wait to see this at wtac

What do people recommend for caster alignment for semis? Is it better to have more caster and less camber or the other way around? and how much is too much? Thanks

sorrry, not sure what you mean?

serviced/rebuilt the rear cailpers, and repainted them to match the wilwoods on the front

slight change of day. Now going up Monday 2/9, the 3rd is a private day

not really interested in overtaking yet, i'll mostly be seeing if anythings going to fall of the car...

Dash

well, my car is going for a checkup tune next week. so i am going to try and do a SOTS day at wakie first week of September. probably the tuesday as its the most quiet. Anyone else interested in going?

I dont know it this shows well enough but you can see the difference of the rear camber/tow to the front. there is a full inch on both rear tyres that never get dirty... will still be shite trailing arm irs but a little less "oh your comfortable? well let just mix things up and BAM!, sidways" lol

Moar done this weekend im only really able do stuff on the weekends as I have to put some time in with the family during the week lol Had a go a vinyling the headlights, looked quite shite as it was old stuff and didn’t want to go on. Ended up just spraying with some rc shell paint, came up pretty good Cut off the old standard tow point and relocated the tow hook to the chassis to make room for the diffuser New harness is in as I needed 2in webbing for the HANS. Also the old belt was out of date. Annnnddd finally got the nerve up to mod the subframe for camber and am very happy with the result, all done for zero dollars J I followed this guide ( for z31)http://www.az-zbum.com/modification.adjustable.camber.shtmlwith a couple of variations. We (Dad and I) didn’t like how much ‘meat’ was left after slotting the pickup point and so added some more metal I couldn’t find any toe adjuster bolts to buy so we just made some cam washers and keyed the existing bolts to suit. The overhang at the top are the blocks to hold the cams in place, not pretty but they work. I set it to max camber and toe out to see how much adjustment there will be, Hard to see in this pic but they are currently sitting at -1deg camber and 0mm toe uncelebrated eye measurement. Camber was around -4 -5deg. hopefully should translate into more rear grip. I want to set the rear to (static) -1.5 deg camber and 1mm total toe in and go from there. Im going to try and finish the little bits during the week and also book it in for the retune. Next wend i'll be making the rear diffuser.

thanks guys. yep anth, ty hooked me up. i did need to do quite a bit of work to get them to fit, as he could only pull them down so far with his mold. came up well though i think.

Thanks for the offer man, but I am seriously time poor at the moment. Any chance I could just buy them off you instead? Also, not sure if you'd want me doing it anyways... I need a new exhaust side cause I over tightened and cracked it!

Does anyone have a set of Rb25 cam covers they want to sell?

Didnt get much done this weekend, or pics for that matter. The new battery is in, and starts the car just as well as the old one. just not sure how many starts i get Also removed 3kg of battery cable, 23kg total! dad made a bit of extra chassis inside the cabin to support where the rail was chopped for the exhaust. he went a bit overkill but thats dads for ya lol filled in the hole in the boot where the spare wheel well was. "headlights" are fitted up, just need to be wraped. Looks pretty good i reckon

haha thanks. i think weight will be my only advantage as I think i will be lower on the power side to most other cars. that, and the suspension and geometry isnt that great either lol

election is called for the 7th, so is this day still on?

i need to do a test day in the next month or so, if you work out when you're going i'll try and make it on that dame day too.

basically you need to put a vertical slot in the outer subframe mounts where the trailing arm bolts up, then you can use and eccentric bolt for adjustment. its the same as what the factory did with the inner mounts, except they were horizontal, for toe adjustment. i have no idea why they didnt do it in the first place!