dangerous_daveo

Sorry, didnt explane it too well. I went FROM a 3.5-4kg fly wheel to a stock one. I personally find the stock one better. What I am asking is how much does your new light weight fly wheel weigh in at? Just interested to know thats all. I think I had problems with mine as it was so light.

Prop shaft being tail shaft? If so its what we said, just needs to be cut down a bit.

There are pintara R31s. If you wack a CA18 in them, they move ok, good bang for buck sleepers. But he could be talking about the older RWD 910 bluebird thingy TRX's. If so there are plenty of fast ones of them, just you wouldnt pick them from a standard one.

Now I really quite like these. But is it just me, or is the roof cut directly off a 300zx? Just the roof (anything above where the windows are) it looks identical. I wouldnt say no to one tho, ever.

Damn right they are worth it. And he does go on a bit, but as he said to me. Its a lot of money for some people to spend, he just wants to explain everything to them so they have all the information to make the right decision. If you dont understand something he tells you. Say I said, why do I need to do 'x' he explained why, and the best ways of doing it etc. He actually rang me at 10am on a Saturday morning as that was most convenient for me. Oh and if someone answers the phone 'italia spares' its the same shop, just ask for Jim.

Hehe, dude thats prob when mine was getting done

Yeah dude, just go down to nissan and get the slave $88 cant go wrong. OOOH!!! BIG BIG BIG ONE!!! You MUST get an S1 gearbox. If you get an S2 your going to have a LOT of stuffing about. The clutches are different (ie one pull ther other push)

What car is it?

$$$?

Its the price you pay for class

So dont you feel like a stupid barstard for selling your old R33 sedan now lol. But can I hang with you now... Now you got a taxi too... Nice man hey.

Other than everyones ears would be bleeding from the horrible noise they produce.

Ok I've had it done. Transtunnel is fine. Dont need to touch it. Obviously clutch, fly wheel etc all the same. You will need an R33 clutch slave, I got mine new from nissan for $88.00. Yes you need the R33 yoke, then you need the cef tailshaft, the idea would be to shorten this. However if your center bearing is stuffed like mine, then you might want to look at getting a 1 peice shaft as this is cheaper than replacing the center bearing apparently (lighter also, so you get back some of that extra weight of the gearbox + less rotating mass) Rb20 cross member is fine, we just moved mine and put some spacers in. You might need an engineer to look at this to make sure its legal. Mine is actually mod plated. The speedo... You need your red gear off the R33 speedo sender (the one that goes in the gearbox) this then needs to be attached to a navara speedo drive (32702 - 02G17 pinnion assembly), should be about $22-25 new from nissan, this then connects up to your speedo cable like normal. Just test it tho, should be pretty accurate. Get some of the seals replaced on the box if they need it. You REALLY dont want oil leaking on to your clutch. Get your fly wheel/pressure plate/clutch all checked out while the box is out. I had to replace mine that was a cost I didnt allow for. And why does the gear selector matter? Wouldnt your RB25 box come with one? I dont belive we used my RB20 one. But yeah, once its done your more afraid your crank is going to snap in your poor little rb20 than your gearbox

Not another bloody stagia?

Well I was preped up for another $100 (which would have been dyno time) on mine. But it was that good didnt want to waste the money stuffing with it. So say $450-500 max? Best to ask him tho if you got an R33, they might be different.

Ok, well as you havent done your sound deading yet, let me go in to that a bit more... I have spent so far $700 on deadening (I paid to get it done too, that was a fair bit of the cost) But, its the 2nd best bit of money I have spent (we will get to the 1st later). Whats been done, best deadener fully covering both front doors on the inside. Then all the bits on the inside. Then some bits of special foam behind the speakers to kill it more. Then closed cell foam on the door skins, so they are nice and tight. THEN, the acces holes in the doors. They have been filled in with sheets of aluminum, rivited in, siliconed in, and then deadened over as well. Basically creating as near as possible to a sealed speaker box. Considering I only have MB Quart 5 1/4inch drivers, it creats a good dose of mid bass. Now back to what I think is the best money spent. GET A GOD DAMN ECLIPSE HEAD UNIT (8455 would be good). They are honestly an amazing bit of gear. Its not that I had a cheap deck before. Far from it I had a top of the line kenwood ($1300...) but this thing just by far exceeds it. Its just amazing how much difference it made. Personally I would sell the one you got, and just get the eclipse. It is honestly THAT much better than anything else.

Yeah, a lot of that too (well a bit at least), it just sounds so much better, like smoother, boost sounds smoother. Just really nice. Well spent $380. But I think the $960 on my new head deck was better money

And they dont look that bad. Fit on ceffys with 5 stud conversions too

I have also heard the g'reedy ones losing power... Cars are funny things. Anyway, looks heaps nice, other than yeah wheels. I dont like chrome, but I think they would suit this. That or something darker.

Did the sums a while ago. Its about $25-35 a week before you put petrol in. Can go up like $20 or so tho depending on insurance, if you do skids everywhere etc.

Mine... not big power but nice curve. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=102699

Well, with the bov thing... I did forget about that But couldnt you just get an R32 crossover pipe?

If thats one park ridge transit bus out of action, then its worth a crashed skyline. No offence to skylines at all, it seriously is a worthy cause to take them barsards off the road.

Anyway, had a chance to drive it a bit better on some dry road today. HELL YEAH, it feels like a lot more than a 17kw increase. Top end is way better, it doesnt die off anywhere near as much.

I would do in this... Coilpacks, as you need them anyway. Coil air induction to your air filter this alone you will notice. Fuel Pressure regulator, and fuel pump. Boost, bleed valve or whatever. Obviously all your suspension stuff, personally tho, I wouldnt go too low, if you dont do that then you dont need rear camber. Keeping it higher means the suspension can still work the way it was intended, meaning you should have more control. With rear cradel bushes, stiff as suspension and sway bars roll shouldnt be an issue, just keep it up. Diff, 2way or 1.5 way. Oil cooler for sure, only go the catch can as well if you get one that works, ie, has baffels, is plumbed back etc. FMIC, if you got the money yeah do it, if not just get an R34 side mount, and get ducting made up for it. Its also less of a chance it will get damanged. Id also do a brake fluid chang to something decent, and get better pads and rotors. BOV, DO NOT DO IT. But get a screw or something and plug the little bleeder hole in the stock one. RB25 R33 or R34 turbo, this will help obviously, also with cooling. And Id say get a chip on there too, the Dr Drift ones are bloody good value, so Id look in to that. If you buy smart, you should have a good $1k left for some tyres My thoughts anyway.