dangerous_daveo

And thats what the dude who first put them on his lancer said all those years ago...

I have two thoughts now, if your afrs are near on that 12. The 12s are on WOT tune, so everything in between that and idol sucks ducks nuts. meaning drinking fuel as you dont drive round with your foot flat all the time. 2nd thing could be a fuel leak still, which would mean it could still be tuned properly. Just the fuel isnt all making it to the engine.

I filled it out, answered as many of the questions with good sugestions, kept out any hate etc. (other than towards drink and drug drivers) And Im also planing on going to the forum and making myself well and truly heard.

LoL, you know whats even funnier. I know of more SR powered laurels than I do cefiros Thats is how common they really are!

Well my a/rs are spot on 12, its almost a straight line. And no joke I got 530kms BEFORE my fuel light came on the other day (90%highway driving) and then it was 610kms before I filled up. Keeping in mind I have a heavier car than most of you, and a smaller engine, which should mean more load and more fuel used. So, dont mean to be harsh, but for some of you maybe its your driving style? But I do belive spooks and 53xyn really have a problem.

Is it auto or manual?

Go in to a decent shop. Look at the aplines and the eclipse units. Even the lower end ones will probably be better than the 'cheaper' brands. Other than that probably jvc or pioneer would be the best bet. Id seriously pay more and get a decent eclipse tho.

To save a bit of money you could go a bleed valve. Id also recomend a dr drift chip over an sfac, would be about the same price but its one less bit of gear for someone to nick out of your car, and its probably a better tune, plus takes off speed cut and boost cut etc. And get a fuel regulator. That will give the injectors that bit more they might need. To give you an idea I have just a front pipe back exaust, fuel reg and pump, pod with cold air, bleed valve set at 12psi and a dr drift chip and im making 155rwkw. If you add the fmic, dump and r33 turbo (id say even not hiflowed) you should easy get 170rwkw.

Could be somelike like an injector seal? Who knows dude. But a charcoal canister has to do with the emmissions control. It is illegal to have it disconnected. Has something to do with fuel vapour or something from memory. Dont quote me on that tho.

Is the speedo correct? As Im guessing thats the only way you can tell your kms. That or you might have a fuel leak... Maybe. Done all the injector cleaning etc? [edit] I dont think a charcoal canister will affect things that much either. I mean mine isnt hooked up, yet Im on 535kms and my fuel light isnt on yet...

Dude, maybe you have a shot ecu hey... Maybe see if someone else can lend you theirs, or something. That or MAYBE your speedo is way out???

All I can say is, I see more laurels than I do cefiros...

Jim told me my clutch should be able to handle 800 fly wheel hp... Its a single plate sprung 5 puck. 3500lb nismo pressure plate, but hey. Thats what he said it would hold.

Its not class if it looks like arse! Get the cef. Bit lighter too, so if your going the baby engine that will be handy

I have a similar problem of my high beams just flicking on when they feel like it... People get REALLY narky about that.

Yeah, there is. Ring him... Just add all the area codes on to it. He has sent clutchs around the world, if you ask him he is sure to tell the story. He will probably recomend a stock fly wheel tho. They tend to be softer, so are more bity.

I saw squizz today I believe. I was in the work ute. He was heading south along the riverside expressway. He did not appear to be driving, but I wasnt really paying attention.

Looks like arse. Lines DO NOT FLOW. Why do people keep trying this chop and cut thing with jap cars. It just doesnt work.

Im more so glad they didnt go POP. Thats just lucky that you actually worry about vibrations on your car. Either way dude, take them back and question them.

Wouldnt it also have something to do with the sidewall construction and the run flatness of the previous tyres?

How old is the bed? And any stains? lol.

Safest way to drive technically is with the flow of traffic. (ie, up here M1 110kmh zone, a lot of people do 120kmh, not all that smart to do 100, as you then become a hazzard, same deal with doing 140kmh, going faster you become a hazzard) So had you been done on say the M1 doing 120, then yeah fair point cops suck, even tho they are just doing thier job. Over taking a number of cars, where the speed limit had just changed (normally a reason for this...) isnt so safe. Fair suck of the sap mate. Just learn from the mistake.

Hold up, how long have you had yours? Your rite Id never get rid of it, just its been giving me the willys lately.

Good work dude. Nice and easy when you actually know what you have to do And when you dont have to replace you clutch... or your tailshaft...

LoL, well if he has moooore than enough he can buy mine haha.