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BoostdR

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Everything posted by BoostdR

  1. I am not sure about the oil drains. Crank case pressure was less the 1/2 a psi.
  2. I have seen the Gibson GTR wastegate setup. I has a Actuator with two feeds. One above the diaphram and one below to actually increase pressure as boost increases. They say it made all the difference. Is this the mod you are mentioning...and can I get it done to my HKS GTRS's? Matt
  3. I do like the idea as the gibson GTR runs a similar setup. The problem I have is clearance with the Rb30 block and all. Maybe I could look at a custom setup using that principle.
  4. I might look at adding the std oil return diffusers from the std plate to my Mine's plates. Here is an example of the G forces...
  5. I now have a sump return on my secondary catch can to the turbo oil return as well as the return to the dipstick from the primary catch can... is my problem sorted now you ask?.....nope still fills both cans. I am begining to think my Mines baffle plates are not doing there job in my senario. I had a close look at them. Once oil gets above the baffle there is no way for it to return until the car decels. The std baffles have a return near the rear with plastic diffusers... I will show you why I think these don't work for me.
  6. ROH Wheels Site Oh yes, they are Aussie. Good wheels 3 piece design.
  7. There isn't anymore power to be made upping the boost beyond 1.1bar. The compressor is out of its efficiency zone after 16psi.. The extra boost and associated wheel speed doesn't make anymore flow.....just heat and the extra wheel speed is what takes your reliability away. At 120,000rpm the torque transfer from the ceramic turbine to the compressor becomes enough to break the ceramic/shaft fusion. Matt
  8. Which lights are missing? All of them? headlights, tail lights? What completeness is the interior?
  9. You spot Trust and ROH Modena
  10. I was there, surprised how many cars attended considering the Footy Grand Final was on. I had a resonable day. Got to test out my side pipes which made more difference than I expected. Car ran .3bar more boost at the same setting. I blew my intercooler pipe off 6 times which kept my sessions prematurely short. I found having my oil/air separator filter over the rear turbo was not a great plan...read James Bond style smoke screen. All in all it was a good day as nothing broke.
  11. looks like a N1 pump...would have to comfirm the actual gear size. The N1 pump has the shark fin outer as a give away. The comparision pick is of an Rb30 pump...not a fair comparison at all.
  12. I will post some pics up of my setup when I'm at the track on Saturday. Best to have the return above the oil level and on the passenger side as there is a lower pressure on that side due to the clockwise rotation of the crank. I use the dipstick tube however.
  13. I was referring to the .65 of your restrictor. 65 thou ? I gather it is in mm
  14. This is with a .65mm restrictor? Are your measurements in metric?....just to make sure
  15. Any info on your warm max oil pressure guys?
  16. I will steer clear of this one, it has smoke screen written all over it...lol
  17. I run the Windage trays on my Rb30. So I can safely say they don't fix the issue. I machined the girdle to suit. No oil squirters. As for the check valve, I have had the best result from not using one. I also agree it will stop the crankcase venting with a check valve installed. I can understand however why an off the shelf kit has one as they still use the standard emissions savy PCV and vac lines which would want to suck oil up from the sump. I have a track day on Sat so will be a good test of the current setup which seems to make a world of difference. I have a fair wack of oil in the inlet still. I wonder if the previous crankcase pressure was not doing any favours for the turbo oil returns also. You almost need to run a vac line to the sump...through a third catch can ----> that would be even better than just a vent/Filter. It would encourage the head oil to drain and the turbo oil returns.....hmmmmn So from what I can see. Having a crankcase breather and catch can sump return-----other wise known as an 'open loop' or 'atmo' oil/air separator system is the key to oil control in GTR with over 400kwatw. Some very good info in this thread. Seems the understanding of our issue is moving to the next level. Also seems like the rear head drain setup that Spool sell should be called a breather/oil return. Matt
  18. Vibration can be gearbox input shaft related. Mine does the same thing. I assume my spiggot bush is the problem. I plan on changing it when I do the clutch next. Not to much of an issue.
  19. Advance the Exhaust cam to bring efficiency higher in the rev range. Bringing boost on slower is the key. A greddy EO1 will also fix it as you can map boost against rpm.. Prob Kyles 6boost manifold working too well.
  20. This one Valve I may indeed not need it now. I may even bring my problem back... ARC do a catch can that returns to the dipstick that uses a check valve also..
  21. The filter is on the secondary catch can. and is a small type...about the size of a biscult in dimension. The primary catch can has an internal filter...see pic The valve covers have Mine's triple flow baffles. I can hook up my boost sensor and data log the output. The GTR sump has ridges on the bottom so the pickup physically shouldn't be to close to the floor.
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