BoostdR

It has a catch can that runs inline with the stock setup. Same as with my old 26. I'm about to start testing. figures crossed.

He uses nulon assemble stuff...real sticky white coloured goo. No engine failure before and a new exhaust.

Hi Elite. I know you have a stack of experience on the subject. Can you elaborate why it can't be my turbo's? I have braded oil return lines that don't go directly down also as the std do. i think the front even travels up hill for a very small time before going into the Tee as its mounted on a slant...I'll post a pick when I get home in 30min. matt

thanks for the replies. I will keep you all informed on my findings. What size is the internal oil restrictor? I would love for it to not be the turbo's and just my rings taking a while to seal. The motor has only been run for 10min since rebuild around the block.

I have one. To much flow to my turbo's. Going to install a restrictor.

Turbo's are HKS GTRS (Garrett gt2860R-10) They are ball bearing, so should have a prefitted restrictor....but that would suit the std oil pump. Here are the specs of my pump....pumps alot more The Reimax Oil Pump is the perfect replacement for the Achilles Heel of the RB26DETT. The OEM unit is notorious for starving tuned RB engines of oil at high RPM`s. The Inner Rotor size has been increased from 77mm to 85mm, and the thickness of the rotor teeth has gone up from 11mm to 12mm. The metal composition of the pump has also been changed from Sintered Alloy to SCM430H. At 6000rpm, the Reimax High Flow Oil Pump flows 70L/min VS 47L/min from the OEM unit. The pump's Regulator Valve opens at 7.2kg/cm2 (+/-0.3kg/cm2) of pressure, at 2000rpms, or when oil temperature hits 80 degrees Celsius. Not only does this item boast great figures, it has also proven its build quality in Gr-A races throughout Japan.

I have just started up my new motor to find it blows smoke from the turbo's due to the turbo bearing housing having to much pressure and pumping past the turbine ring. My oil return lines are a -8 going into a -14 T-Piece on the block in the stock location. HKS have a kit that does the same so the T isn't an issue. I am however not sure if my return lines are to small and or my Reimax oil pump(huge gears) is pumping a stack more oil than std(definate). I plan on installing some .8mm restrictors into the oil banjo bolts and see how it goes. If that doesn't work I will look at my oil drain sizing. Will check my PVC aswell to make sure the crank case doesn't have to mauch pressure. Has anyone had experience with this issue and aftermarket oil pumps? any idea's? pls help Matt

also if you have a very late 33. check if you don't have solid buckets. R34 are solid and run much less clearance ~.018', but if that was the case I would expect all cylinders would be leaking comp.

Bleed the lifters, should be fine then.

thats the one!

Dipstick tube needs to be changed to the RB26 one as the rb30 is 35mm shorter. Or mark your rb26 Dipstick High level 35mm higher. Rb30 water outlet that fits in the side of the thermostat housing is smaller in diameter than the rb26 and has an extra small port of the top. Rb26 one can be fitted. (taps out, press fit) Oil filter thread need to be screwed out and replaced with the one from the rb26 block so the oil cooler, temp and pressure sensor can be fitted Cam sprocket cover and needs to be widened if using an OS giken style idler pulley adaptor. Lower cover needs to be widened and extened to meet the top cover. Rear block oil outlet(to head) needs to blocked off Water pump bracket needs to be modified as the top bracket bolt goes to the block instead of the head now. Fit your turbo oil return Tee before bolting the sump on. lengthen front Diff breather hose 38mm. When using ARP RB25 head bolts with 26 head. Extra washers may be required with a thin head gasket and shaved head as I ran out of thread. Main girdle bolts. 3x long required extra washers. The long bolt in the center needs to be grinded shorter to clear the front drive shaft. Don't forget to block the oil pressure outlet on the block under the rear knock sensor port off.

how low does the rear go?

whats the best for a m35 nowadys?

How about an M35 Axis Autech Edition. Work rims, GTR brakes, rest stock, full leather.

Is it? oh--I didn't know that disregard my last - over

Wet road would help the R

My old car...I ran 11.8 @ WSID That was with the Auto.

Roger that, who knows then. I checked my rack end play...definately what my issue is. Only happens when I turn right under power or sitting dead still and turning the wheel quickly.

If the Hub Bearings are different it could change the offset...maybe I will also say, if your brake discs are currently warped to sort them out asap. I think I left mine to long and it has worn my power steering rack to the stage I now get shudder when turning the wheel quickly.

I didn't need to do this. R32 GTR 32mm discs. about 1.5mm clearance. drives fine. I will add after removing the olive in the caliper to grab a very fine tooth file to smooth the mating surface of the banjo bolt cooper washer to ensure a good seal.

my MAF olso went when up in the redline.. I put mine down to the wet weather, but who knows. you can get them new for $79US. see my thread.

straight bolt on

Sure its 22680 6N201 New from the US Used from Adelaide

Ok my supposed R33 Calipers turned out to be 300zx items suited to 280mm disc's so a real pain in the butt as I now have to get a refund and source some more. They were the finned type and the legs on the calipers were considerably shorted...my guess about 16mm 296-280. Are the legs on the R33 GTST calipers definately the same lenth as 32 gtr?