Jump to content
SAU Community

BoostdR

Members
  • Posts

    1,365
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by BoostdR

  1. I would clear the codes and try again. see if it spits out the same code again.
  2. Yep, looks the same here. I'm going to finish mine off tomorrow...wooho!
  3. You can get them new from the US on ebay for $70 delivered. I paid $89 for one local
  4. I have R32 GTR disks and they foul on the hub arm. I would expect the R33 GTST 30mm will be ok. 32gtr is 32mm
  5. Check his other item descriptions, lol
  6. I'm running a K&N panel filter. I've closed my box up until the rain stops. There are guys in the US running Pod filters on there V35 and g35's in winter and going through 3-4 AFM's a year....lol I'm sure the std filter would do a better job at keeping the moisture out.
  7. Just a warning. If you have your Airbox open at the front and/or a power duct installed. Close it up in wet weather as a single drop in the right place will fry the AFM. I have had mine just go and read countless other stories. Make sense now I think about it. Would just like to save others potential wasted money. Matt
  8. I agree if your engine is lean to raise the Fuel pressure then uses your AFC to lean it out...Will keep it away from boost cut as well ....unless the boost sensor stops the party...in that case put the boost sensor on the wastegate side of you boost controller and it will see less than actual boost.
  9. Got it! So no need to linish 1mm off the Banjo bolt if I get the restrictor out?
  10. Large Capacity Transmission pan with cooling fins http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRANSMISSIO...sQ5fAccessories Transgo HD2 Shift kit (not harsh on light throttle, quick and fast on full) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRANSGO-RE5...sQ5fAccessories http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRG-RE5R05A-HD2/?rtype=10 Do-it-yourself installation instructions http://www.gtmotorsports.com/pdfs/products...E5RO5A_HD-2.pdf How to remove the valve body instructions http://www.gtmotorsports.com/pdfs/products...RO5A_VB_RnR.pdf Nissan Have discontinued Matic J fluid and reccommend using matic S now. takes 6-7Quarts And to top it off, just add Paddle shifts. http://www.tunersgroup.com/Online_Store/Wo...mn_Shifter.html Matt
  11. Thanks for the quick reply Craig! Whats the go with the restrictor in the stock calipers do I use that with the R33 calipers? Or do you mean remove the restrictor from the R32/R33 Calipers?..so the Banjo seats correctly? Am I on the right track?
  12. I'm doing this atm with R33 GTST Calipers and R32 GTR discs. The bit you machined of the hub..you are refering to the rectangle protrusion on the alloy part of the hub? The Banjo bolt that you linished 1mm from to fit the brake line...did you do that so it seats inside the caliper and seals? Or could I just use a couple of extra copper washers to space it out?
  13. Thanks for all the replies. Std ECU, STD fuel pump, Std injectors.
  14. I am also under the impression the compliance fluid is not the Nissan Matic J that should be in it. I have been very careful and only pushed it enough to hear the noise a few times. I will change the fluid and check the filter before leaning on her again. I will let you know how I go. I have found a boost level where I am not hitting boost cut. My next plan is to stick my wideband on and find out what mix of E85 gets me a nice AFR. I can report the M35 will run on 100% E85 with some loss in power off boost(to lean) and acceptable on(still abit lean) My Stag loves anywhere between 30-45% E85. It does make a noticable increase in power. Currently It turns all 4 tyres coming on boost in first. Again I'll let you guys know what I find on the AFR side and what fuel combo at my boost level 13-14psi(up top) gives the best AFR. I expect 100% BP98 would have her running rich(in the low 11:1) Matt
  15. I monitored my std boost and found it spikes to 16psi then drops to 10psi. I have raised it up and it now peaks @ 20psi and drops to 15psi. I did hit boost cut this morning in the cold so have dropped it a little. I have seen some dyno read outs and am suprised to see the boost spike is common. I am wondering if the standard bleed solenoid is causing the erratic curve. It may be the normal setup and it does feel great coming up on boost but feels boring up in the rev range. Has anyone else experienced the same? My Trans is also letting me know its not happy with the extra power as it groans when changing from 1st to 2nd. I will get the filter changed and check it has the correct fluid...Is the a common fault?? Other mods are only a catless front pipe and filter. Matt
  16. interested if its under 350 and bell mouth design. Also keen on a Decat front pipe if you can do a package deal Thanks Matt
  17. Call Troy listed on the number on the first post.
  18. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=330418568789
  19. Please contact Troy ONLY, via his MBL number listed
  20. pm or call 0413023669 location Adelaide
  21. Seems, alot of flow from a -7 or -9. This type of power figure is definitely not the norm.
  22. haven't seen the same consistency with mahle over cp. ie size and weight.
  23. CP FTW ACL, not keen at all. Have seen to many oil burners. The rings are also hard to get replacements for.
×
×
  • Create New...