I said you were dishonest pretending you had never seen it before. I talked to another forum member who travelled up from Adelaide to see you prior to me who also pointed out the structual rust to you.
I also said it would cost thousands to fix correctly...so the rust doesn't come back and structual integrity is retained. When they rust from the inside out I feel your $350 will be a temp fix only. I hope the repair was with metal rather than bog.... The firewall and A pillar are not places I would want weak in an accident. May look great 'now'.
I for one am thankful to have seen it before it was 'repaired'
I think you need to be honest with people Russell.
I find out I was not the only one to make the trip up from Adelaide to look at this car and find the Structural Rust.
You acted like you had never seen it before, which was dishonest.
8.8:1 works well with E85 (lower comp may slightly effect cold start on E85)
6boost Manifold
CP pistons
Tomei oil Pump
1.2mm oil Restrictor
NEO head and keep the VCT
PM me the name of the workshop and I will point you in the right direction. Having a builder with a level head is not such a bad thing. If he does't know you want to run E85, that may change his thinking.
The builder sounds to be playing it safe. Low comp gives an easier tune and less chance of detonation. The lower comp also gives a larger chamber volume which effects fuel economy in a negative way.
Matt
The Rb30 will make mountains of torque with any turbo setup. I blew 12 gearbox's then put Redline gear oil in....haven't broken one since....plenty of power now to. see my signature block.
I fell GT-SS's will run out of puff very quickly on a 3ltr. -5's would be the smallest I would go....The starter motor would still bring them on boost...
I am trialing Intima SR pads on the GTR.
They don't squeal
Low dust
Low wear
don't have huge intial bite but are linear and keep the pedal and feel after getting very hot
The disk shows even low wear..
Last pad I used were Green Stuff. These are better
Quite happy for the price
Would like to see how there Type D are also
hey huddy, mine is the same...since we both have the OS giken copy tensioner plate. You will have to extend the lower cover and tig up the top cover lower passenger side. i haven't bothered as the top cover doesn't fit under the bonnet. its the price to pay to have the cam wheels line up perfectly and retain proper timing belt tension.
That would be me....my old account that the Mods never fixed after it was corrupted. The good old days...have learn't much since. That turbo worked great --->for the cost. But pretty average overall. I was always fighting surge with the old school TO4B Vtrim compressor wheel. The turbo would never run more than 15psi boost and dropped off up top to around 11psi. The site crashed back in the day so the info is all jumbled up now. For the price forget about building your own these days go with the tried and tested as Hypergear sell.
In reference to your reply about the Gibson GTR actuator. They did run a line from the exhaust manifold..not sure if it was a pressure feed or Exhaust temp...however they may have run the Positive pressure to the gate from the manifold as you say.....as it obviously did work.
Matt