BoostdR

I do have a throttle controller. Using the throttle controller normal map fixes it half the time. Changing the max AFM output voltage on my EMU fixes it all the time

try removing it. I had the same problem. The TPS rate of change gets effected which triggers different cells in the ECU

The additional load from the hill causes higher boost vs tps vs rpm than the ecu will allow(boost cut). Duty cycle decreasing shows the ECU cutting fuel not the fuel pump having and issue. Do you run a Throttle controller ? Matt

The coil diameter is smaller at one end. It enables a further non linear pressure relationship(almost exponential) in turn giving an actuator a higher adjustment range without inducing boost creep due to flap opening angle travel restriction

What I was eluding to is the actuators that are adjustable length have a variable rate spring inside so tension increases as the rod shortens. Putting an adjustable rod on an OEM actuator "that doesn't have a variable rate spring" inside will just reduce the flap opening angle and certainly cause boost creep. In this instance I would feel the additional external spring would be better(just changing minimum boost rather than causing boost creep).

Depends if the waste gate canister has a variable rate spring inside or not

That clears things up a bit cheers. there will be less rotating mass in rwd so spool may be better in awd. Overall power would reduce in the real world..the dyno should compensate on the power side of things. Trust me, there is no acceleration benefit in manual mode it actually drains power locking up the torque convertor which only simulates a manual transition for on/off throttle crispness. The only upside is being able to hold gear. Do a 0-100 in manual and in D. D will be faster unless you mod the trans to remove the torque convertor lockup then it will be the same.

Can you confirm those results are from the ss2 rev 2 on a vq25det? They both list S14 3071... Let's also get the facts right. In manual mode off the line the car is actually slower than in drive due to the torque convertor locking up as Scotty has mentioned in the past. The only positive about manual mode is you can hold a gear at 4500rpm rpm to get quicker response.

Real world boost response results in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear would be good. I have another 35 needing a turbo ASAP. He is not keen on my level of lag however. He thought it was awesome until I put my foot down from a standstill

Yep, went from 2psi to 2.9psi. The thing is -20 is overall -20 it's on top of the +8degrees in my emu map and +30 degrees in the OEM map so it ends up at 18

That was my thoughts Scotty from our previously discussions. I tried ignition retard from 0 through to -30. Problem is max is -20 and that is taken from your ign map so if you have +10 you only get -10 correction. I adjusted my ign map also to see what it would do with more retard.

Launch control ign retard enables me to get an extra 1psi on stall. Not worth the effort to setup. Only option to get this Hypergear SS2 Rev4 off the line is a high stall which I'm not keen on, as it will need to be pretty high. Matt

Legend. Will post a video of my results.

Thank you Scotty and tommy K. Awesome.

Once these wagons are on boost the torque curve is incredibly flat, much better than the RB25. Makes for an enjoyable wave of acceleration. I found -4 degrees timing at 6500 rpm helps my trans shift. All other high load cells have +5 degrees on E85, light load/cruise has +8.5 I've also had great success with the EMU auto tune and my innovate LC-2 wideband. Tune is within .2 AFR with no input from me apart from a drive through the hills. Once I work out how to get a speed input from somewhere I'll also setup launch control.. Do you have a boost curve available scotty? would be good to see. I agree, dyno doesn't show the big picture at all. A boost curve at part throttle would highlight transient response and separate the boys from the men.

how did the 3071 in standard housing compare to the gtx3071 in native housings?

We want a turbo that produces the most amount of average torque between 2500-6500rpm. I'm thinking small turbo high boost or less rotational mass ie: ceramic turbine, Gamma Ti Turbine, Ti alloy. EVO 9 RS turbocharger CHRA into OEM housings ? TDO5HRA-16G6C-10.5T (ti alloy turbine, magnesium alloy compressor) Possibly replace the comp wheel for high boost. I made 272awkw on E85 on my Tommei Mak EVO, response was silly Pitty these turbo's spin the opposite way.... maybe a titanium compressor wheel that enables 50 plus degree backswept angles. This gives bigger flow for less rotational mass. www.google.com/patents/US20060067829 Matt

No they don't fit easily but are do-able. What I think is a small amount of mods would not be as easy for the average enthusiast, I'm sure you would have no issue's scotty. They are definitely longer which is why the bottom assembly cap required modifying to enable the assembly to clip together with the pump installed. The original pump rubber bottom cap doesn't fit, I used some less density rubber provided with the pump which takes up less space. The plug is required to be rewired, the bottom keyways and fuel filter captive washer post need shaving. OEM fuel filter is a little loose, now held on by the assembly bottom cap and foam. It did require a 12v direct feed initially to enable the pump to purge. Haven't had any other issues, flow at idle voltage was ok. I asked about running OEM low voltage prior to purchase and was given a green light as the windings are different in these pumps compared to others...possibly why it is physically longer. I suspect voltage during cranking to be reasonably low anyway...food for thought. Time will tell if it remains reliable, it's only been in for a couple of weeks. Comes with a 2 year warranty

I'm running a RACEWORKS 340LPH E85 Safe pump in the std housing. Small amount of filing to the bottom cradle cap clip holes to lengthen the assembly. OEM wiring with 20A fuse. *needed direct 12v to initially purge the pump

I have 2 Consult 3's in Adelaide. Anyone wants to buy one PM me.

I'm not overly keen on going with the OEM housings again. I'm am positive the BB 3071 would be much better but still a compromise to a degree. My boost response with the SS2 Hypergear rev4 is as follows: 1st 2nd 3rd 2000 -.2 3000 1.6 3.7 5.4 4000 5.3 6.8 11 4700 9.7 10.3 19.5 5000 10.3 13.8 19.8 6000 13.7 14.2 19.8 As you can see to get any decent power you have to be travelling at impractible speeds. The stock turbo would be faster in 1st and probably 2nd as well. Average power(low down torque) and transient response are incredibly important to our heavy auto's. The only turbo that I know will retain these characteristics is the titanium turbined Borg Warner EFR. Either 6258 or 6578 would be my pick.

Does the 3071 bb go in the oem housings or native with an adaptor?

I can confirm the HobDrive doesn't clear the brake wire cut mod CEL. Comes up as 4WD status high or similar. All other code display and clear ok. I'm haven't sent in my custom Stagea screen layout request yet although it has been approved. I have my wide band simulating the narrow band so I plan on having lambda translated to AFR with a line graph background, intake temp, coolant temp, ignition timing, short and long term fuel trims, trains oil temp and the boost sensor output translated to psi

Running stock camber for the height. Rear wheel could easily go 10.5 +42mm Front only has 1-2mm clearance to the inner upper arm with 10" +35mm and 3mm spacer. So perfect would be: Front 20" x10" +32 Rear 20" x 10.5" +42mm I wanted to be able to rotate. Ozzy tyres do custom offset for free. If you get these same Directional wheels make sure you state that you want directional. Ie different left and right so they all lean the same way. Matt

Spoke with Tao on the phone. The issue has been resolved. He has apologized for his conduct Has learnt a lesson to actually personally test each revision prior to marketing.