Wacky Dee

I got the smoke ones ..should look fantastic I reckon (black car too). Got personalized (silver text on black background) plates coming in by the end of the week hopefully too. Now all I need is to get the bilstein suspension and lower the car 2cm (stock springs), fix a couple of rattles and I'm sweet for a while Thanks for the invite .. I'll take you up on that next time up that way. Cheers

found a really cheap bathroom suction cup with a hook at bunnings .. $4.50 or so. Should do the trick. Interesting note about the camera ... not sure if I'm into that though heh I am thinking of getting a gps thingy soon as they're very cheap and I hate using the crappy old paper UBD. But I wanna get one with bluetooth built in so I can use mobile hands-free at the same time on it. Just tried to unclip the side indicators and they came out real easy, a bit TOO easy. It probably takes 10 sec each to take them off. A bit worried someone might try and help themselves to my indicators so I'm thinking of putting some glue in there when I put the new ones in. What do you reckon?

Just a quick question ..does anyone know where I might pickup a cheap suction cup ??

Sweet, thanks Terry. The parts just arrived and they're looking good. Can't wait until i've got them on incl. my new nismo mats !!

lol so that was your ecu hey ? Nice, I liiiike. My one was version 500 (first r34 gtt ecu) and yours was an updated revision v502 Thanks for the brain transplant!

It's a manual and I'm not sure about the daughterboard ..I thnk he buys the stuff from Japan.

yeah i got that part about the side indicators .. I just don't know how to get the front indicators (on the front bar) out. I've read somewhere else that you have to open the bonnet up and push them from inside the engine bay towards the outside - atleast on an r33 I think. Does that sound right?

at redline? I'm not worried about redline .. boost seems to be steadily falling off from 5000rpm or so. According to the greddy manual, upping the 'gain' should fix boost that gets reduced as rpms increase. But I'm not clear on one thing .. it also says that if you increase gain, your overall boost will automatically be higher. So am I right to think that if I increase gain by say 2 points, I should reduce boost 2 points, in order to regain 11psi ?

Graphs are below .. red line is stock ecu (which couldn't cope with anything more than 10psi boost) and blue is the new remapped ecu (and 11psi boost) after road tune with Toshi. Car has a turbo back exhaust (JJR front/dump and HKS Silent Power catback) and Greddy EBC, but is otherwise stock. Can anyone suggest how to hold the boost steady ? As you can see in the 2nd photo it starts dropping from about 5200rpm (11psi) down to approx. 9psi at redline (7000rpm). I have a Greddy ProfecB Spec2 EBC (settings are, boost 55%, gain 15% and start boost '94' ie. 9.4psi) I'm pretty happy with the new remapped ecu .. car feels more responsive in mid range and is obviously making about 15kw more power at the top end. It's obviously a SAFE tune, not too lean but leaner than stock. Toshi listened for pinging during road tune (microphone connected to the engine block, back to his headphones) and adjusted timing accordingly so theres no pinging. Cost was $500 which included the necessary ecu daughterboard etc

I'll post the results as a new thread in the forced induction section ..cause its sort of completely off topic here.

Can you please explain what you mean by "push the indicator on the driver's side towards the front" ?? How can you push the front indicators towards front/rear when they're sitting perpendicular to the car ie. can go only left or right .. or maybe I'm just slow.

yeah unugroup seem like a good bunch of guys ..definately the best shop I've been to so far out of all the ones mentioned earlier. I'll scan the results for ya tommorow. cheers

Ah ok thanks guyd .. didn't realize it was a spring mechanism. Yeah the sides should be easy I reckon. Can anyone tell me which way to push the front indicators to release them?

Looks like my package arrived from Japan .. missed the courier though so I'll have to wait until monday arvo to pick it up. Does anyone know how to change the front and side indicators on an R34?? For some reason I assumed it'd be a simple process but having had a look at the indicators on the car, I wouldn't have the slightest clue where to start. Does the front bar have to come off completely to replace the front indicators ? What about the sides ?? Cheers SunnCoast - performance-wise (ebay or google his webpage url) gave me a REEEEALLY good price on the indicators/nismo mats and gear knob. It's probably a better price than any group buy could do. So get in touch with him. By the way, I went smoked Should look good I reckon ..black skyline, dark indicator, black plates. Yay, I'm getting there.

Thank god .. the ign. timing was actually 17deg as I had it checked by Unigroup so all's good and the new ecu is in. Car feels significantly faster and more responsive with remapped ecu. Off to unigroup again in an hour or so for a power run on their dyno. Gonna test both old ecu and new one and compare results. If anyone's interested in the results, let me know I can scan them and upload here.

UAS power run is $95 (I did one on my r34 gtt recently) ... but my reading there was about 15% higher than 3 other dynos - make of that what you want. Unigroup are open today ..

Toshi is great and I reckon road tunes are the way to go .. real life driving conditions, not just spinning your wheels under simulated load on a friggin dyno. We've just had some bad luck and ... preparation I guess (should've checked the ign. timing before we started) What's the point of a power curve created on dyno if the car doesn't behave like that on the road?? What about response when you're breaking/speeding up ? Can't do that on dyno ... Anyway, don't wanna turn this into dyno vs road tune debate. Just wish we'd prepared a bit better that's all. Mind you, none of this is Toshi's fault .. any tuner would assume that you haven't screwed around with the ign. timing to start with. All my troubles started when i took the car for a timing belt change and gave it to the dealer I bought the car from (northshore prestige) who then outsourced the job to another shop without my permission - stay away from there if you want anything done properly, they've failed so miserably on numerous occasions.

Yeah I've heard of unigroup ... might have to pay them a visit tommorow actually. Just had the road tune done by Toshi and we spent all day ... only to come back home to 1) find his chip programmer broken and 2) his timing gun reading my ignition timing at 30 degrees instead of 15. f**k me dead. Does this shit ever end??? So either his timing gun is faulty or we've just wasted the whole day because if my ignition timing is higher than 16-17 degrees, all the road tuning we did today was for nothing so i'll probably end up paying twice to get it done. So yeah, I need to take the car to unigroup ASAP as Toshi says they have a very good timing gun that will tell us the correct reading. Fark. Me. Dead. Just once I'd like something to go right with this car. On one hand I love it and on the other, I hate it because I've already spent so much money on it (and need to spend lots more to get it the way I want it) and because I can't seem to get a friggin break when it comes to tuning it. Sorry for hijacking your thread mate! Just venting ..

Well I paid for the full 12 months of the annual fee (for the customized plates) even though I have 10 months left on my normal rego. Are they gonna refund me or something? Edit: actually never mind, I just checked my bank statement online and see they only billed me $30 for the ordering fee. I assume they'll just ask for 11 months worth of the annual fee when i goto pickup the new plates?

I recently got a gtt and did similar research and found out Autowatch is the best alarm/immobiliser on the market. I got mine done by Leon from Security in Motion .. he's in Sydney, give him a ring if you want. $450 or so I believe for the alarm/immob.

it may not be exactly the same thing but it could be something silly like that .. a screw loose somewhere and when the car is cold a small space appears so that it rattles due to the vibrations of the engine. I'd try and pinpoint the source of the noiuse with someone's help.

Ummm ... what do you mean? Are you saying that if you get new plates you have to get a brand new rego ??? I thought you'd just need to do a quick/free (maybe a couple of bucks) transfer or something.

ah ok cheers

I've got the same thing happening on my 34 gtt and I think I know what it is. Once I took the car for a dyno and the wastegate actuator got stuck open (so wasnt making any boost) so the mechanic had to take the actuator metal cover off to fix it. Ever since I've noticed a crappy rattle sound when the car is cold and recently tried to figure out where its coming from and I am 99% sure it's just the wategate actuator metal cover because the mechanic only put 2 screws back in and not all 4 GRRR.. so when the engine is cold it resonates and the cover makes the rattle sound but once it warms up (and components expend a fraction of a milimeter) the cover no longer rattles as it then sits tight. Im gonna have to try and source the right screws for the actuator cover to test this theory.

I get 300kms out of 50l of BP Ultimate myself .. just a turbo-back and boost at 10psi so far (was getting same economy on stock boost too) But the car is not tuned yet so I'm hoping once the ecu remap is done that economy will improve. I'd be more than happy with 400kms/50l