Wacky Dee

what do you mean by 'percentage of your base boost' ? You mean stock boost ? From what I understand stock boost on an R34 GTT is 7psi. So if you set the 'SET' value to 50% does that mean it adds another 50% of 7psi on top of 7psi ie. 10.5psi all up ??

the worst thing about the greddy ebc is that you don't know what the boost is being set to as it's set in a stupid percentage value ... eg. 50% 50% of what ??? It just makes no sense and without spending a couple of hours on a dyno and trying to tweak the settings, it's impossible to get it right imo. But even on dyno it's shit because you can't really create load on the engine on the dyno like you can on the road (up a hill for example).

Yeah I had similar (except 'set gain' was '94') and it seems to be hitting 12 psi after I got my actuator fixed recently. When you say 0.65 set gain you mean '65' (as in 6.5psi) right or was your controller using the 'bar' measurements ? That seems a bit low though if it's in PSI doesn't it? I thought the 'set gain' value is supposed to be as close to the peak boost as possible. Anyone know the right way of setting the 'set gain' value??

'peak boost' is the maximum boost the ebc has EVER recorded ... eg. when it wasn't tuned properly, you may have reached 12psi. It's the 'last boost' you should turn on and watch out for. Best to do it on a dyno though. The greddy profec b is a PITA to tune ... imo.

Due to some issues that would take too long to explain, my ebc was never properly tuned... So I was just wondering if there's anyone out there with an R34 GTT who runs 11psi boost and what your settings are ie. what 'percentage' is the boost setting, what about the 'gain' and 'set gain' settings ? Cheers

yeah thanks. Since it says 'completed in a day' I would probably need 2-3 days heh. Does anyone know of any similar leatherette+fabric type of seats where the sitting surface isn't leather but rather a heavyduty fabric of some sort. I don't like sitting on leather but I've seen some fantastic seats before where the middle section of the seats (where you sit) is a woven heavyduty fibre of some sort and the rest is leather.

I've seen these leatherette seat covers on ebay before and thought they looked good but the whole idea of having to remove the factory covers seems a bit unsettling as I don't think the factory covers are that easy to remove. So I'm guessing you'd need to rip them apart ? Has anyone here done it ? What does it entail .. ? I'm assuming at the very least you need to completely remove all the seats out of the car How long does it take approx ?

I had my AFRs tuned by Toshi and I did do a dyno after the remap (while the actuator was still farked) ..according to the dyno graph I was making boost just fine but it feels so much better now.. here's the graph http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=165600 I'm gonna go to Toshi's see if he can have a listen to the engine for pinging while we drive... hopefully this wont screw up the remap

I'll try to keep this as short as possible ... I have an R34 GTT with a turbo back exhaust. At some point (after getting an aftermarket turbo-back exhaust from JustJap) I took it to a place for a dyno. On the dyno run the 'actuator flap' got stuck open (according to the mechanic) which meant it couldn't make boost past 5psi or so so he 'fixed it' (what he did, i was never told). Anyway, I recently had the car tuned and ECU remapped by Toshi and it made a significant increase in performance. However, for the past few weeks, ever since that dyno, the car's been making a rattling noise as I took the foot the off the accelerator. A few people thought it's the cat and they recommended I get rid off the xforce cat. So I went to justjap today (where I bought my exhaust from) to get the cat replaced with a Catco one and hopefully fix the annoying rattle. They changed the cat and still same rattle. So the mechanic then took down the dump/front pipe and all the brackets and tried a few things ... 2 hours later, everything's back on. Fingers crossed. Nope, still rattling. Now at this point I'm thinking, f**k he's probably gonna just say "sorry mate, don't know what it is". Nope, he opens the wastegate cover again and starts looking around and notices the actuator isn't sitting correctly and thinks could be the reason for the rattle. So he pushes the actuator back a little bit and BINGO. Rattle is gone. I ask him why he reckons the actuator wasn't sitting correctly - he goes, looks like there's a mark there ..like someone pushed it the wrong way. Immediately I remember the original dyno where the actuator flap got open and got 'fixed' by that shop's mechanic. So I'm happy. The rattle is gone. The mechanic reckons it should actually make boost a bit sooner now. A BIT SOONER? It feels like a DIFFERENT CAR. It runs SOOOO much better it's not believable. The boost is coming on crazy quickly and the car feels about 3 more responsive in low to mid range (haven't had a chance to flog it yet). First, 2nd and 3rd gear are unbelievable. Response is so much better and the car feels twice as fast as before. I can hear the turbo spool up all the time, unlike before. To put into context, it feels 3x better than it did prior to and after the ecu remap (which was quite a significant increase in power/response too). All this only after initially going after a stupid rattle. Turned out the rattle was just a symtop of a far more serious problem. I still cannot believe how good the car feels - seriously, it's like a brand new car completely. Well, to be fair I did get a new cat (although it's highflow jut like the previous one) and a new airfilter, but I'm sure it's mostly the actuator issue that explains the change in response/boost/power. So big thanks to the boys at JustJap (Kirrawee) for taking the time to find and fix an issue created by another incompetent shop. Most guys would have given up after 2 hours of trying to fix what was no more than an annoying rattle. They went all the way and it paid off bigtime. CHEERSSSSS! Edit: now I just gotta pray this fix doesn't affect my ecu remap which was done using a road tune while I still had that 'rattle' ie. the car wasn't really making boost early enough or as much.

+1 for security in motion. $450 for the premium Autowatch (best on the market I fink) alarm system or $850 with the tracking module. This is for an r34 gtt ..pricing for your car may be different (cheaper?)

this leatherette stuff actually sounds better than leather ... leather without the downsides/hassles of real leather! How hard was it to replace the original covers? I had no idea the original seat covers were actually removable in the first place lol. How long did it take you to replace fronts and back ?

I really doubt it .. every single R34 GTT I've seen has the same (grey) seats and presumably the same grey carpets to match. I probably wouldn't even be thinking about doing this if the nismo mats I ordered (got GTR instead of GTT ones) didn't leave a big gap on the driver's side exposing the grey carpet underneath But anyway, I reckon black carpets would spice up the car real nice since it's got a whole black theme going (dark indicators, plates and soon car seats hopefully).

I see ... I was just at a motor trimmer's who said he can't get the mould for the skyline so according to him I'd probably need to import it, hm ok. Anyway, that made me think ..hold on a sec, I don't need new carpets, I just need the colour changed. Ya reckon the grey factory carpets could be dyed black ? I don't see why not but I've no idea who does that sort of thing.

the on that JSAI's making for GTT's are just the lips that attach to the sides instead of any skirts, so it looks pretty crappy if you ask me .... It'd probably look a lot better if the car had the nismo side skirts too http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/4638/rimg0002zq4.jpg

this stuff looks pretty good http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Seat-Covers-NISSAN-...080611133a22334 anyone used 'nylex' covers? I reckon it's atleast $200-300 on top to get it professionally fitted so could be a bit exxy in the end.

hm didn't think you'd need to take the seats out .. there's some sort of padding under the floor covering, is it part of the stock carpet or just a insulator that stays there? I'm gonna ask the trimmer tommorow how much to change it to a black carpet .. would suit the car much better as I plan on getting some sort of black sear covers. Speaking of which, anyone know any decent leather/cloth mix seat covers for R34's ? something that fits nice and tight?

cheers

I'd like to change the basic grey floor coverings to black colour .. I'm not talking about carpet mats, but the actual covers over the floor. Has anyone done this or know a place in Sydney that will do a half decent job ?

I'm in sydney too so please pm me the trader's name. Cheers Love tha avatar, rofled hard.

To me that looks like a pretty crap tune to be perfectly honest ... waaay too lean. That car's probably detonating badly throughout the rev range. This is what a safe tune should look like (blue line is tuned, red is stock) approximately to have no detonations, although it's an R34 with a stock turbo: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=165598

bump

Just got a nismo carpet set for my 34gtt and it looks like they're the GTR ones ... all the mats except the driver one are exact matches. The driver one is too small (chunk missing on the bottom left ..presumably because a GTR has a wider middle section where the gear knob is). Anyway, since there's a chuink missing you can see a big section of the grey floor base carpets under the black mat .. which looks shit. I was thinking of getting someone to modify the driver's mat to the right shape. Who might be able to do something like that? Basically all it needs is a piece of black carpet attached to fill the gap... Yeah I know .. I'm fussy but it really does look sucky.

that's the c-west style front bumper. I've no idea where to get one. Seems like R34 kits are not so easy to source and I'm in Sydney. I reckon an IMPUL bodykit looks the goods on a light coloured R34 .. here's a yellow one: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=77496

. the way I've been blowing money on the car since I got it and the way rents are going, my next mod might need to be a full size bed-seat lol

Ok the indicators are on, easier than I thought and the suction cup wasn't really necessary. You just gotta wrap a bit of cloth around the tip of a flathead screwdriver and pop it up (a mm or 2) from the radiator side towards the wheel side, on each side - like you said. Once you hear that first loud and scary cracking/popping sound, which as it turns out is normal since it's been sitting there 10 years ... it removes easily with fingers. At first I put the front indicators wrong sides each .. they fit but didn't sit completely flush despite all my pushing and shoving. Then i realized I had the R hand side one on the left and L hand side one on the right. When i changed them around, they popped right in and sit completely flush without issues. I'll take a piccie when I get my new black plates later this week for those interested. I reckon it looks friggin awesome Thanks for everyone's help, esp. Terry!