pipster11

If this going to be a daily then you'd probably want to go for the Rs4s for the newer engine design It will use a fair bit less fuel than the 260rs but be nearly as quick

To get the max of your current setup all you need is a new fuel pump, boost controller and a tune (Nistune or a full standalone ecu) Seeing as the engine is a bit built just tell the tuner you choose to take it to where he thinks is safe No idea what those turbos will go to but probably near 300kw, probably be limited by the injectors so yeah whatever is safe on those If you want to run e85 in the future you should go for a high spec ecu so you can run an ethanol content sensor

usually, but you have to remove the "olive" from the caliper (where the brake line goes in there is a small fitting pressed into the bottom of the hole, screw a screw into it and pull it out with pliers or something)

s1 C34 - use r32/r33 brakes with 12mm diameter bolts s2 C34 - use r34 with 14mm diameter M35 - Jump off a bridge (just kidding guys, you can have some R34 brakes if you'd like)

Get onto gslrally sport, they should be able to do both

Also, you can get the o2 sensor from a sponsor on here (vulture Motorsport) Direct drop in for about $70

What kind of driving? City should be about 400-450 Highway should be about 500+

As stated before, 6 speeds get dual mass flywheels a la 34gtr and s15 Quite likely to have copped a twin plate clutch in japland, extra likely if your clutch is quite firm

Save yourself the disappointment and get some QFM HPX or Remsa pads for about the same price from GSLRallySports just tell them s1 or s2, front or rear and they will send you the right ones

are you sure its not to attach your brake lines to? I'm pretty sure it would be there for a reason

google "fixing rb26 afm's" same thing applies to rb25 and its super easy to do if you have a soldering iron if you don't have a soldering iron order a gas powered one from somewhere like deal extreme or ebay for like $20 its becoming a really common problem now but its such an easy fix

Gulf western Synx 3000 for engine oil, change every 5k, its only $33ish and as good as motul 8100

But oh noes, you blew an engine and you were running GW so it must be shit.... also, head gasket performance is now related to oil quality

http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=235&aspect=45&diameter=17&wheelwidth=7&offset=35&width2=245&aspect2=45&diameter2=18&wheelwidth2=9.5&offset2=12&Submit=Submit works out about 5% bigger than a 235/45/17

Steering wheel pics ? (Chasing a specific style, not sure if the non-turbo is the same as the one I want )

245/40 will be a great deal cheaper being factory fitment to falcodores with 18's

Long shot i know But does anyone have some R31 bits Need some front LCA's also a good diff and driveshaft wouldn't go amiss I have real money waiting also pm or txt me on 0422 988 328

Depends entirely on offset wheel poke and track change wise Google tire size calculator or go to WWW.willtheyfit.com and chuck in your stock size But probably yes but maybe a 235/40 will be closer

Whats the best way to leave the computer if we remove the front shaft? Tell it nothing (just remove the shaft) or start pulling fuses and disconnecting stuff?

looking good! Just above my mate from qld's s15

pinouts will be different on that ecu anyway (wont plug in)

fair enough if its something important and a variance in pressure is actually a big deal i thought we were talking about boost gauges i still don't get why jap boost gauges come in american units too i'm all for metric units, it makes my life a lot easier

i hope you also take into account change in local barometric pressure then if your getting that accurate pretty sure most boost guages also work in psi or bar for positive pressure and mm/inHg for negative (mm/inches of mercury) pretty sure most of the cars i've had have been around 10-15 inHg at idle you are also not likely to detect a boost leak at idle as the silicone joiners that usually leak will be under vacuum and seal themselves against the pipe but i have heard of people spraying start-ya-bastard on the joiners as you can head the engine pickup if some spray gets in

s2 rear lights liven it up a bit how attached to the awd are you? considered a rwd conversion with a stand-alone ecu? (some may be able to run the auto) or maybe send an email to the nistune guys and see what they can offer you?

yeah but it tire size can become a compromise trying to match circumference and you won't get any combo the exact same