pipster11

All good Just had a phone call, car was found in hobart!

For other costs of getting that thing working you could have a hypergear turbo that will outperform your eBay cheapie

Haha, yep Otherwise the clutch fork comes off the pivot ball and the clutch slave goes on an angle and the pedal gets heavy sometimes Guess the guy that did the clutch for me f**ked something up, meh, it works I guess Pretty dodgy tho

haha, for lolz (got a few paint pens on ebay, got bored after doing the tyre writing on 1 tyre so started attacking the engine bay) also, out of picture is the "flux capacitor" my housemate also painted the inside of the front mudflap fluro orange im thinking the angle grinder might make an appearance sometime, but its already a pretty dodgy car (mainly dying gearbox and super worn bushes)

Tinyest of updates from me The 31 was off the road while i repaired a bit of rust (not 100% done because i couldn't get my hands on a mig) Had to get some new rear tyres so was wearing stockies for a little bit Saved some penies and bought some round things for the back and some more pics of the shitter corolla

this is well established, there are a lot of awd's about what the OP is wanting to know is the brake options for his (what i assume is) RS (rwd turbo) which were a series 2 (usually 14mm bolts eg r34) but because is doesn't use gtr running gear there is no way to 100% know without pulling a bolt out

r33 onto s2c34 - sleeve (12mm id, 14mm od) r34 onto s2c34 - bolt on you might want to pull one of the caliper bolts off first tho and measure the shank of it, it seems like the rwd's have a slightly different mix of parts than the awd's so you might just have 12mm bolts like an r33/s14 (pretty sure i read somewhere that rwd's have s14 front suspension)

Yeah, sorry they won't cover you for theft until its fitted, but will still gladly take your money for it

http://www.gumtree.c...age-/1003451681 The car is a 1991 Toyota Corolla GTi 100kw with 5 speed Manual Great sporty little car, good on fuel and cheap on parts No longer need this due to having another car The Bad: Paint is very rough Needs a new gearbox Few Dents and a damaged rear bumper The Good: 100kw 4AGE Motor STILL IN REGO New clutch (5000kms ago) New speedo cable (5000kms ago, most break) New CV's New Tie-rod Ends New Spark Plug Leads Carbon fibre "Eyelids" (will remove if not wanted) This car would make an awesome little project car, it just needs some TLC and it will be back to its former glory Optional Extra: Full set of 15" alloy wheels with good tyres- $400 (will come with some 14" wheels otherwise which have very little tread on them) Please text only, i am at uni so i can't allways answer calls! LOCATION: Newham Cheers, Tom

slow reply but.. fair enough, looks like my dad will be selling the car (he just ordered a new mini) i guess i'll just have to move to japland and buy something cool over there then what are some cool cars that are unable to be imported to aus normally?

Mainly the fact that they charge $60 for a group 3 synthetic (which is what the synx 3000 is) but the main things i noticed what that the top end was quite noisy after about 5000kms, sougi which was the same price lasted till 10,000kms until there were any hints of noise/rattle i was a bit worried about the noise (wasn't mega loud like the lifters/tappets on my r31) but after changing the oil it was a lot better i guess nulon is ok but its overpriced for what it was i'd also be a bit careful as some people have been reporting sludge issues with RP (mainly the yanks)

i think there is one in the main engine bay otherwise i think there is a translated interior fuse box label floating around

find the fuse and unplug it try to start the car disconnect the battery change the filter there will still probably be a bit of pressure in the system too

autobarn does ususally pretty sure someone in the oil thread said they got theirs really cheap from repco and Birds said he stopped distributing GW because repco was under-cutting him so sounds like either your repco is really small, or they are feeding you bs google Gulf western distributers (your area) and grab it from them

worst oil advise ever! i ran nulon for 1 oil change and it was shit changed to gulf western sougi (now discontinued) which was awesome (ran about 30,000 kms on it) now running GW synx 3000 (done maybe 20,000kms on that) will change to GW synx 6000 when it needs changing next so all in all, don't get nulon, go to Repco (apparently they stock it) and get Gulf Western Synx 6000/3000 (which ever one they have, the 6000 is the best but 3000 is still really really good) oh, the Synx 3000 is only like $30 too so if you don't like how it feels, just change it out

why would you do such a thing?

consult won't help with the central locking it has probably had an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser installed at some point and they may have cut something i'd be getting an adr compliant immobilizer fitted anyway as justcar won't insure you without one and most places give you a discount if you have one fitted

i'd say so circa 2010 injectors should spray real nice like

what injectors are you using? could be poor atomisation of the fuel

stock tps voltage is .4 or .44 not .5

$260 shipping seems excessive but $500 all up is a pretty good price do tow bars have to be engineered? or can you just bolt your own up? (i've got a towbar for my r31 sitting in the garage)

Yeah post to oz could be a bit but they only charge about $70 for those steam pipe manifolds from NZ

http://www.towright.co.nz/towbar-28302.aspx that seems more reasonable 1200-1500 - $250, not sure if it will clear your rear bar tho (if you have the dayz optioned one)

its totally down to the owner but most ppl use 10w-40 for daily driven skylines and thicker stuff for the track

i would say so too i need to do mine, they actually rattle a bit over lumpy roads