djr81

They don't, but anyway. The most common spot for the foglights in under the top section of the front bumper either side of the number plate. Usually the mesh screen for the interccoler/radiator cut out gets a couple of holes cut into it to fit the lights.

My understanding is that if you change the internal diameter of the pipe in which the air flow meter resides you change the calibration of the meter.

Hmm last years Honda is better than this years. GO THE SUPER AGURI'S.

Well what constitutes "worth the effort"? Stock turbos will run into the low 300rwhp quite happily. There is not a huge amount of room between that & the point where your AFM's & fuel system run out of puff. As for cam gears. There is a thread somewhere where bear baron has posted a dyno sheet of the before/after results. Most useful. The cam gears that is.

Well I have now owned 4 R32 Gt-R's. Still buggered if I know what that does. I think it may do something with the rear lights, but I never bothered looking.

If you don't want/have any support mods then the smallest of the three version is the one for you.

In short, no. But they are not so uncommon.

Australian Grand Prix, Free practice session 1 results 1. ALONSO Mclaren 1m29.214s 2. MASSA Ferrari 1m30.707s 3. VETTEL BMW 1m30.857s 4. HAMILTON McLaren 1m30.878s 5. BUTTON Honda 1m31.162s 6. NAKAJIMA Williams 1m31.401s 7. COULTHARD Red Bull 1m31.528s 8. KOVALAINEN Renault 1m31.571s 9. WEBBER Red Bull 1m31.661s 10. BARRICHELLO Honda 1m31.737s 11. SATO Super Aguri 1m31.782s 12. FISICHELLA Renault 1m32.011s 13. WURZ Williams 1m32.194s 14. SUTIL Spyker 1m34.043s 15. LIUZZI Toro Rosso 1m34.627s 16. ALBERS Spyker 1m35.055s 17. HEIDFELD BMW 1m37.249s 18. DAVIDSON Super Aguri 1m39.221s 19. RAIKKONEN Ferrari 1m39.242s 20. R SCHUMACHER Toyota 1m39.550s 21. SPEED Toro Rosso 1m41.763s 22. TRULLI Toyota 1m44.130s

Quick question. My steering wheel (R32 GT_R) is developing a two tone effect whereby the hub section is starting to look faded & flat (as opposed to glossy). What can you use to shiney it up? Please note I don't want to use Armorall or any similar silicon based shite. Sorry if this is in the wrong section.

Not sure how accurate you want to be but from memory it was always 60:40. I don't believe there would be a difference in weight distributions for the V-specs.

I can see how the agreement would protect the RAWS workshop in the event of a third party being the broker or the car being bought directly from Japan. It is infact a very powerful reason for using the RAWS workshop as the broker. They find the car & therefore assure you it is acceptable for compliance. If you use an independent broker as often as not they get you to sign a similar agreement rendering them blameless if the vehicle is not up to scratch. There is scope to be stuck in the middle with a worthless, unregisterable car. Why I don't understand is why a company with arrangements for brokerage & compliance would fail to leverage them as much as possible. Using agreements holding the customer responsible may very well be in the best interests of the RAWS component of the business but is surely only half the story.

Interesting. I should explain a little. Firstly I have no problem with regard to either my car or my RAW at this point. It is all good. But I was suprised by some of the content of the agreement I was asked to sign subsequent to me buying the car through the RAW. #1  I understand that should the above mentioned vehicle arrive in a condition not fit for compliance, it shall be disposed of in accordance with the Guide to Registered Automotive Workshops at a cost to myself as the customer. #2  I acknowledge that it is my responsibility to provide the original Japanese De-Registration Certificate as required by the RAW to prove the origin of the vehicle. #3  I acknowledge that any recall on this vehicle carried out in the next 10 years shall be the financial responsibility of myself as the customer. As for #1 - well I would be somehwat unhappy (to put it mildly) to have to pay for the disposal of a car bought through the same broker/RAW. #2. Not sure why it is my responsibility to do this when clearly the broker is engaged for this sort of thing. #3. The language here is a bit loose. I understand that they meant to say a recall from the manufacturer. I don't see how a recall on their work (compliance work especially) can be held to be my financial responsibility...

I meant in the instance of the vehicle being "not fit for compliance" & unfixable rather than just plain failing an inspection. I had thought that the RAWS had certain obligation to fulfill BEFORE the car was shipped. Obviously I got it wrong. Given that the broker is the same company as the compliance shop I would like to see how they would wriggle out of paying for it in any case.

Just a quick question. I ahve been asked to sign a disclaimer from a RAWs workshop (Standard doc) which amongst other things says that the cost of dealing with a vehicle not fit for compliance was mine. Now I was under an understanding that it belonged to the broker/RAWS workshop? I was digging through the sludge in the DOTARS website but I can't even find any reference to it. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Oh, and before anyone gets fired up, no there is no problem with any workshop or any car.

Power steering fluid will find its way around to the drivers side quite easily. Mine does when it gets too hot & I have put too much into the reservoir. If it is red it is probably just that. With regard to the oil pump, no an oil leak is not a sign of impending failure. Remember that the oil filter, if it is leaking leaks on top of the front diff. It is unusual for it to get hosed all over your strut tower, hoever. My bet is that it is power steering fluid. Check the level & maybe empty a little out. If the problem goes away you have found your man.

I suspect the car (Adrian Newey, Renault engines & bulk cash aside) will be rubbish for most of the year. Looks like Webber will have to spend another year dragging an unwilling heap of rubbish around the track. He did that last year & spanked Rosberg in the process. Didn't hurt Rosberg's career any, so here is hoping it won't do any damage to Kryten.

Well at the time it looked to be the sensible thing to do. Williams were winning GP's & Renault couldn't make their minds up whether to stay or go. (Joe Strummer style) One of those things that looks stupid in hindsight. Mind you there will be a bit of competition next year for that seat.

Wow, I used to want to be the airbox on the Williams FW13B. Either that or Mauricio Gugelmin. Ahhhh, happy days. Unfortunately it looks to be Ferrari first, daylight second. Hope I'm wrong. Gees I hope Flava Flave has Webber sorted for a Renault drive next year.

Could I get a build date on the following: BNR32311609 Thanks in advance.

With vented rotors you have to be a bit careful. The width of the rotor is not necessarilly the whole story when it comes to temperature handling. Bear with me for a little bit.... The ventilated rotor is mostly just fresh air. You have the middle section (for want of a better name) where the vanes in the rotor provide the cooling. The more vents the more cooling. The more vents the more weight. The actual bits of the rotor that do the work are the sections on either side of the vent. These are not the same thickness for all rotors. By way of an example an R32 GT-R will allow you 2mm wear on these. Some aftermarket rotors only have a 1 mm limit. Guess which one carries more metal? Always check the allowable wear limit when buying new rotors. You may be in for a nasty shock. In short if you buy aftermarket buy hatted.

I think you are overselling them a little. They aren't even that good.

They are not an industrial part - so Blackwoods etc won't be of much use to you. Maybe try http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/search....amp%3B+Steering Or better yet www.gogear.com.au - these blokes are in WA, however.

Any half decent motorsport supplier will be able to sell you rose joints. Just look up the yellow pages.

I can recommend the second & third businesses on that list.

Take it to a dyno. Get them to run it up & check the AFR's. How much boost you can run will depend on the state of your fuel system & your AFM's. Just make sure it isn't running lean or it will die.