djr81

I used bolts that replace the normal ones in the floor. The normal bolts secure the buckle & the bottom of the lap-sash belt tot he floor. You replace them with eye bolts & hook the harness into the eyes.

OK, well first things first - it is nice to be nice. So maybe it is not so polite to tell people to ^*#@ off all the time. Secondly, it is usually an indication of someone having a lack of proof that they trot out their qualifications. So if you want to get into pissing competition about how qualified an engineer should be before making a statement then I would submit my degree from UWA & 10+ years as a practising mechanical engineer. Now, with regard to stored energy. There are two situations we need to consider: 1. When the clutch in disengaged, ie there is no drive. In this circumstance a lighter flywheel will reduce the inertia of the motor & allow it to gain or lose revs more easilly. You notice it when you blip the throttle & also to a lesser degree when you dump the clutch. It usually makes the car more driveable except off the line. 2. When the car is being driven by the motor the motor & the flywheel are connected to a few things. Like the clutch, the gearbox, tailshaft, the diff, the halfshafts, the wheels etc etc. It is also propelling the body of the car along. So as I said the engine "sees" approx 1500kg of mass that is needs to propel. In all that a lightened flywheel makes next to no difference. Lastly, you said "A lighter flywheel can't store as much energy, hence, you need to supply more energy from the engine to go up hills." Now I had thought the idea was to ACCELERATE up the hills, not just coast up them. That being the case a lightened flywheel will allow the car to accelerate that little bit faster both because of its lower mass & its lower rotational inertia. The faster you go the more energy is stored in the flywheel, so unless you are trying to get up the hill and slowing down whilst doing so you cannot recover ANY of the energy stored by the flywheel. As an aside: Seeing as you are an engineering student you would remenber that the energy of a rigid body in rotation is described by the equation: T=05xIxwxw. (read as Tee eqauls half I omega squared) So lets assume our new flywheel is 80% of the rotational inertia of the heavier,older one. It means you need an extra 826 rpm (ie an increase of 7000 to 7826rpm) to store an equivalent amount of energy in the flywheel. Unfortunately you will also be storing much more energy in the crank, pistons, conrods, cams, pumps, drives etc etc. So the difference in stored energy is more likely to be down near a couple of hundred rpm.

Please don't take this the wrong way, but that statement is just plain wrong. The motor will be dragging 1500kg of car up the hill. So a kilo or two in flywheel weight imakes no difference at all.

I have a 3.5 inch system on my car. Can't hear the thing over the tyre noise. As for sizing it is important to remember that pressure drops of gas flow through pipes are strongly a function of the gas temperature. What does this mean? Well the MOST important bits to get right are the front bits. The least important bit is the exhaust tip...

In todays paper... A Victorian man has become the first driver to permanently lose his car under the state's anti-hoon laws. son of rajab, 43, pleaded guilty to four counts of driving while disqualified between January 23 and February 14 this year. Under laws introduced in July last year, drivers caught drag racing, doing burnouts or committing other "hoon" acts such as reckless speeding and driving while disqualified, can have their cars impounded for 48 hours for a first offence. They face a three-month impound order for a second offence and the permanent confiscation of their car for a third offence. Victorian Police Minister Bob Cameron today welcomed the magistrate's order. "These tough new laws hold hoons accountable for their actions and hit them where it hurts most - by taking away their vehicle," he said in a statement. The best bit: In a hearing at the Castlemaine Magistrates Court yesterday, Terrence son of rajab, from the central Victorian town of Drummond, was ordered to forfeit his blue 1980 Toyota Corona fastback You're kidding me, aren't you.

The other fun thing some aligners do is confuse per side with total. So I asked for 2mm rear & got 2mm per side. So I just write down 1mm toe in per side rear etc. Do the same for the front too as most shops don't understand toe out or why anyone would want it. To be honest I found that 2mm per side rear toe just made the thing bump steer at the back. But maybe that's just me.

All gone quiet on the Davidson front, however. He was sort of the next big thing last year too.

Not knowing what the hell I am talking about never stopped me from expressing an opinion. Try this, pretty straight forward. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/faq_rotorsystems.shtml

Actually, for much of his life James Hunt was a reefer smoking pisshead. He cleaned up his act in the end - just before he died from a heart attack. I think there is a lesson in that for all of us. Favourite James Hunt quotation. "We can't quite see the pits from our commentary position." Explanation: The commentary postition was in the BBC studio in London. The race was in Mexico.

The only reason I changed my airbox to pod filters was to allow the use of larger Air Flow Meters. The Z32 units don't even look like fitting. For the kind of hp you are talking about the airbox is fine. Just use a good filter eg a K & N.

The thing that used to sh!t me about Murray was the number of mistakes he used to make/still makes. WOW! Oh, sorry, got carried away. Bring back James Hunt I say. "Ricardo Patrese is complete rubbish etc etc"

For my 10 cents AP. A question for you: What type of connection is there between the rotor & the hat on the AP disc? They promise great things for the strap drive. A second question: Compare & contrast such things as piston area & pad size. This will tell you which is more appropriate for you car. A third question: Price up the replacement of the rotor only. They will wear out eventually & it is best to find out now if there is a substantial difference in prices between the two.

What brand did you get? I usually find the ABV gear to be pretty good.

So, are they still lunching gearboxes like there is no tomorrow, or has someone found a fix for that?

Well first thing to do is check to see what kind of suspension you have. Are they aftermarket coilovers by any chance? Secondly no RB20 ever had any bottom end. You can't fix this.

If it is an R32 GT-R the most common sizes are 255/40/17 235/45/17 Both are as common as muck.

They are very beautiful. Can I ask who you bought them from?

Well my guess would be they are probably the 332mm rotors, either 28mm or 32mm thick. Probably Perth Brake Parts is as good a place as any. If the brake pads aren't new I would be replacing them anyway. If they are new it will be pretty easy to identify them. Have a look at the AP racing site for the pads that suit the caliper you have. There is a whole list for the CP5200's. Did the kit come with adaptors? Also what about braided lines?

Hmm, well when they are on the track & if used properly (ie not nannad around) the treadface temperature should be well into the 70 degree mark & sometimes into the 80's. It is difficult to get anywhere near this when storing the tyres, wherever that may be. So just be aware using them on a track day will for example heat cycle them half a dozen times. Keeping them stored won't cycle them at all. Bottom line: tyres are for using, not storing. If you can get more than a season out of them you really should get out more.

Hmm, I use DS2500's & I am very happy with them. Some things to note: They really aren't that dusty. They will make a little noise when cold, but the best cure for this is to bed them in properly. They come with instructions - so follow the instructions. They appear to be fairly gentle on the rotors. Mine cost <$300 for the fronts, delivered.

Well the answer to your question (& you probably won't like it) is to talk to the people who sold you the kit. On the assumption it was Racebrakes or similar they should be able to help you out quite quickly. There is very little good info on the net with regard to matching up brakes/master cylinders. The CP5200 is a 4 piston caliper with 49.5cm2 of piston area. What rotor are you running it on. Also, what have you got at the rear? Fluid? I use Motul RBF600. 600 degree dot 4 fluid. About $28 for 500ml. Probably best to buy two bottles.

For the unitiated he was clearly joking. Don't put that shit anywhere near your good tyres.

Er, no. I was kind of hoping someone else may have had one.

Has anyone seen the BP & GT40 adverts. They were made at Monza way, way back along time ago....

Well out in the world, yes. But on the dyno it is different. As I understand it (Read, probably don't) the inertia of the dyno mechanism needs to be taken into account when the power figures are worked out. Now the dyno somehow needs to differentiate this inertia from the cars drivetrain inertia. So what I am trying to say is that if you lessen the cars drivetrain inertia it will accelerate faster (Without any extra horsepower) but if the inertia figure in the dyno for the car doesn't get changed it "sees" it as more horsepower. Now my head hurts.