djr81

I have it on good authority that Beer Baron is now 13. But to answer the second question it goes fvfvfv - thump. Obviously the car is posted on the website to generate a bit of traffic. Which is fine but no one would be in the slightest bit interested in importing it. Why? Because you couldn't reasonably register it & secondly because you could build a quicker track car for much less coin.

Well, back in the day people used to overbore motors in increments of 10 thousands of an inch ie 0.25mm. If you had (for example) a Cleveland V8 you binned it after 40 thou. Which is why you have to be careful with going too much over size too quickly. Like the Baron says a block out to 88mm is on its last rebuild - so why pay extra coin for something in that condition? Anyway, to anyone looking for a stroker crank & larger capacity from their RB26 - be careful about which size pistons you order. Oh, and by the way. Combustion chamber volume has nothing to do with motor capacity. But piston diameter certainly does!

I say this without knowing anything about your car and/or driving experience. So please don't flame me if I have this all wrong. A common mistake people make is to try to carry too much speed across the apex of the turn & hence run out of road on the exit. They then start on about understeer. Try a bit slower in fast out & make sure you are on the loud pedal as the apex slips by.

Hmm, baby got back. Err, anyway. I have managed to wedge my arse in a Recaro & like Humz says they are probably your best bet.

Well how much oversize are they? Oversize pistons can make a bit of a difference to the engine capacity. Remember stock GT-R Bore: 86mm Stroke: 73.7 Capacity: 2.568 litres If you overbore the thing by 1mm (Not that you would necessarily want to straight up) Bore: 87mm Stroke: 73.7mm Capacity: 2.629 litres. So a 1mm overbore doesn't make it a 2.7 litre motor - you need a longer throw crank. If you go to 2mm Bore:88mm Stroke: 73.7mm Capacity: 2.689 litres. Which can be claimed as 2.7 litres. Remember though, if you bore the block out to its limit (2mm or whatever it is) it will be a throw away item the next time you need to rebuild it. All that for 60cc's?

Another street race to add to Monaco may well be amusing (I am not counting Albert Park). Atleast Spain has discovered F1 now, before it used to be all bikes & no one could have cared less about the F1 circus.

Welcome to my nightmare. Bride do a nice recliner, but they are only for slim hipped nancy boys. Recaro are probably your best bet. Unfortunately I have NFI who is the local agent. Velo do a good fixed back seat, as do Sparco. Bail up Dick Ward from Go Gear as he can help out with the seat mounts etc.

Rule 1 Don't volunteer anything. Rule 2: See Rule 1. Cops always (or almost always) 1: Try & pretend that they are either doing you a favour (I could have booked you for blah, but I will only do you for blah blah...) or 2: "They are only doing their jobs". Both these approaches are rubbish because 1: They don't actually have to book you for anything if they don't want to. 2: Unemployment is at historic lows - which means they can get a real job. Anyway, take the pain that is coming to you & resolve to keep the car legal. That way you wont have to go through all this rubbish a second (or third, or fourth) time.

WASCC membership (Silver membership) is $210 for the first 12 months (Plus nomination fee of $50 in the first year). You get: Free admission to ALL club race meetings including V8s & SuperTrucks. (& drift stuff) Access to drive on the circuit in your road car at club tuning days for a nominal fee. Participation in motor sport as a driver. Minimum level required for CAMS competition eligibility. Voting rights. Ability to nominate ONE immediate family member or partner as an Associate Member. * Ability to nominate Junior Member(s). Newsletter The Racing Line Members' Key Ring Access to McCrackan House at the V8s. One FREE track hire voucher valued at $55 (not redeemable for cash). Which is a pretty sweet deal - particularly if you have hung out in McCrackhead house when the V8's are in town & all the plebs are sweltering in the sun - err, like I was. Damn. Anyway, you need to be a member of a CAMS affiliated car club to get a level 2 license. I think the $12 for the No limits thingo covers it.

There is thread on the subject in the WA section. The short answer to your questions are as follows (to the best of my knowledge): The circuit promoters have actually bought the land. They are supposedly developing a business park to generate the cashflow/capital to build the circuit. The periodic announcements that a race will be held this year (there have been atleast three such announcements) are complete rubbish. Work on the circuit has not progressed in any meaningful way. The website will be updated very infrequently (the haven't even fixed the spelling mistake on the front page FFS) Any linkage between the circuit & the race series listed is, overwhelmingly, in the minds of the promoters. CAMS recently tipped an absolute bucket on them for telling people formula Nippon was happening this year. Not without CAMS/FIA approval, boys. Most people in Bunbury have developed a healthy degree of cynicism regarding the circuit. In short, there is a small chance it may get up, but don't hold your breath. Allegedly, apparently, in my opinion......

Surprised? No, not really. Remember these are the same people who periodically confess they are unable to actually do anything about curbing the road toll. How long would you keep you job after you told your boss you didn't know how to do it? Or for that matter completely misrepresented something that it takes all of 10 minutes to verify (ie drifting was in Japan)? Accountability for both the police & for journalists is completely non existant.

There are only two ways to deal properly with them: 1: Don't watch it. If the show comes up in conversation tell anyone who is prepared to listen not to watch it. Clearly the stories & the "journalism" on the show are from the bottom draw. In fact how the have the gall to call it current afairs is beyond me. None the less while ever they can get ratings that are in any way acceptable they will continue to broadcast such rubbish. So stop watching. This will both lower their ratings & also stop everyone from getting upset... 2: If you want to complain, you have to do it first to Channel 7. Effectively to complain to the ACMA (Australian Communications & Media Authority) you need to give the broadcaster (channel 7) the opportunity to resolve your grievance. The link is here. http://www.acma.gov.au/WEB/STANDARD//pc=PC_90137 You can also try the Chaser & Media Watch. But this happens all the time & the tv stations have a hide as thick as a rhino's.

I thought the same thing. BMW reckon the tyres were shite, but even so that ain't a real impressive time.

The kit as I understood it was for a non hatted rotor with a CP5200 caliper. Don't remember how much other fruit came with it - ie pads and or braided lines. I do know of a cheaper option than that which is basically the cheap arsed AP caliper that HSV etc use on a DBA rotor. I am not sure that constitutes an upgrade however....

To be fair, Baron, you are comparing new with used. Also much of what AP & others offer retains the Sumitomo rears & the standard master cylinder. So you don't HAVE to spent all that money. You can get a new front AP kit with 330ish rotor for less than $3k. Nonetheless if you can get the job done for that kind of money with 4 new calipers that is pretty good going.

Rotational inertia (Properly called the second moment of area - I) is measured in mm^4. As in Torque = I * alpha where alpha is angular acceleration measured in radians per second squared. This is the rotational equivalent of Newtons famous Force = mass * acceleration. The only reference I have ever seen to the direct effect on steering was in reference to the Indy cars where some drivers noticed a change in steering effort due to a change in gyroscopic effect when they changed the material the rotor was made out of. This was at rather ridiculous speeds, however. What a heavier rotor/caliper does do is add to the unsprung weight of the car which affects the ability of the suspension to keep the tyre on the road. This is something to be avoided if possible.

Well they are noisy as all hell at about 80-90km/h & when they are pressured correctly the ride is pretty terrible.

The 88 McLaren was the MP4/4. Actually all of Ron Dennis' McLaren are part of what he called project 4 - needless to say the first three didn't work nearly so well. The car itself was designed to a fair degree by Gordon Murray & a number of others who's names don't immediately come to mind. I think John Barnard had either gone or was in the process of going to Ferrari. Anyway with two hacks by the names of Senna & Prost the thing won 15 of 16 races that year. For my money, however the prettiest McLaren of all (M6A aside) was the MP4/13 which in pre-season testing wore the traditional McLaren orange along with the West sponsorship logos.

Simple: Different brake bias causing different temperatures. Also those temps aren;t that high (Rotors get much higher than that) hence you have to factor in different cooling rates.

I cannot be 100% certain from the photos, so I cannot be 100% sure about this but: It is VERY POOR practice to use bolts to connect to blind, tapped threads. What should be done is that a stud bolts (Think threaded rod) be used & it be loctited in place. Only then should the nut be torqued up to the outside of the stud. What typically happens is that if you try to use a bolt you either don't get enough tension on the one or other of the bracket or the hub. The result? The things rattles loose.... The problem is that you either don't get to use the full depth of the tapped hole or you don't get sufficient clamping force on the caliper.

Easiest way is to check the CAMS website. www.cams.com.au Second esiest way is to make enquiries at your nearest CAMS affiliated track. Bail up one of the officials & they will surely set you in the right direction. Lastly, have you thought about buying an already imported car from a fellow competitor? Most competitors have an eye to their next car & pretty much everything is for sale all the time. So if you find something you like, ask. You may be well surprised by the answer......

I like how everyone gets hung up on a particular model and suddenly there is a world full of experts on price. What you need to understand is that you would have got a fairly similar reaction if you had have nominated what colour you wanted your car to come in..... From buying too many cars (GT-R's among them) I would offer the following. Buy a good car not a specification. What does that mean? Well it is far less important to get a black, V-Spec 11 1994 & a half or whatever than it is to get a good car. Like Baron said a good R32 is netter than a poor 33 & vice versa. The cachet of a V-spec badge is meaningless if the car is tired. All GT-R's are inherently fine cars. Buy a good car, not a price. What does that mean? It is less important to spend, say $25k or $30k than it is to get a good car. If the thing costs a couple of thousands of dollars more then pay the money. At the end of the day the car is more important than the price. Buy a good car, not a list of modifications. What does that mean? With Skylines there is a slight tendency for everyone to want either a fully built car or, more commonly an untouched example. The best bet is to take them as they come, if you don't like some of the stuff on it, wait a while by which time you will probably have come round to liking it. Make sure you know what to look for. This means both knowing what to inspect for failure/wear to prevent you having to pay heaps to fix it & also what to expect will be tired/stuffed because it is a traight of the car.

Yes he is sure. Or atleast I am on his behalf. Rear diameter is 297, front is 296.

I am not advocating turning up to the track without a spare. Clearly if you stuff a rim/tyre you change it. If you stuff more than one, well mostly I find people at track days are willing to help out. Failing that there is always a tilt tray....

Well if you want to do it get yourself some gear like a rattlle gun for home & maybe an electric version for the track. That & a proper jack. Otherwise it is just a time consuming pain in the arse & you will end up not bothering. Personally i think that unless you have to commute more than about 200km's each way it is just not worth the effort. It is 600kms round trip for me to get to Wanneroo & frankly I cant be bothered changing wheels. Remember the wear rates on the track will be massively more than those on the road. The only caveat is if you are running bulk front end -ve camber & toe out you can chew the front tyres on the roads. The other thing to worry about is tyre pressures. Get a gauge & keep track of them.