djr81

Well I think the following Spiderbait lyrics may help explain the above post: I saw Johnny Cash Saw Johnny Cash And he was smashed Johnny Cash... Just a joke, so please don't get all riled up. But anyway to the specifics. There are any number of items on a GT-R that are cheaper to maintain than their equivalent in an RB20. Like the gearbox for instance - simply because you won't wreck them anywhere near as often. There are also any number of items on a GT-R that don't need upgrading whereas a GTS-T will eg I/C. Further there a large number of items that are common to the two cars. Yes an RB26 is more expensive to buy second hand than a 20. But is it more expensive to rebuild than a 20? Not much & you will get much more hp & more reliability from the big brother motor. I own a GT-R & you can be damn sure it is not so I can brag about it. Quite the opposite as there are two downsides to GT-R ownership. Firstly the bogons who think you care for their opinion about its merits relative to, say a Monaro. Secondly the teenagers who think it is fully sik just like the one on their playstation. Which means I very much prefer to shut up about ownership unless I know who I am talking to. Lastly if you want to run RWD because you are of the opinion the GT-R is not as much fun to drive based on its AWD drivetrain I can assure you you needn't worry on that score.

Simple rule when it comes to cars. Any money you spend on upgrading them is essentially lost money. So unless you do all the work yourself fitting up whatever you will certainly lose money. Best bet is to get it clean & neat. If you have to spend a few hundred dollars on panel & paint then so be it. Beyond that & fixing any glaring faults, just leave it alone. That is pretty much what the car yards do - which tells you all you need to know.

Hmm interesting. I was always of the understanding that the pad in the Brembos on the Nissan was bugger all larger than that of the Sumitomo's. Any chance of a compare & contrast? Gold: The new black? Or Gold: As camp as a row of pink tents?

The drift box is really just a GPS system. It works out your speed by working out the change in latitude & longitude as you drive around. Hence it is independent of wheelspeed. The downside of this is you cannot then detect wheelspin via the data log. Which limits its usefullness for people not wanting to drift. The most common serious damage I see to cars is when they slide off the track sideways. I have seen a couple of people do this on sprint days, but oddly never seen a drift car turn turtle. It is actually quite surprising how slowly you can slide off the track sideways & still end up upside down. I think the sprint guys tend to do it more often because they are carrying more speed through the turns & particularly on corner exit - which is where some people get sideways & run out of talent to coin a phrase. If you think about it properly a sprint car should always be going quicker than a drift car simply because it is using all of the tyre available grip whereas a drift car wont be because the driver is intent on getting wheelspin. Sliding friction < static friction. Immutable law of nature & pretty hard to argue against.

The 140R corner at Suzuka is a fairly famous & hairy corner that as of last year was taken flat in an F1 car - sort of destroyed the mistique really. It is named because its radius is 140 metres. How did I get from one to the other? Well the accelration due to gravity is 9.81 metres per second squared. So if you chuck yourself off a building one second later you will be doing 9.81 metres per second, or about 35km/h. One gee is the same acceleration as that due to gravity. It is just a bit more user friendly is all.

Did they, at any stage, turn right? If so it was probably champ cars. IRL isn't exactly powering along either.

One inch, ie 25.4mm.

Baron, NFI to most of that but I think you will find the V-spec 32 master cylinder & the 33 are the larger size. So maybe check out a V-spec 32 photo or two. You will get a longer pedal for the povvo pack 32 master cylinder with the Brembo calipers, but probably only 5-10%.

Well I am confused (there is alot of it about at the moment) because the listing specifically mentions R32 & even the build dates from 8/89 to 04. I would have thought with the adjustability of the damper you could pretty much chuck whatever spring you liked at it.

Actually Baron I have had people knock back offers of a top up of Mobil 1 for their old school (in this case Alfa) motor because they were too scared to put a synthetic oil in it. Believe it or not....

Don't be silly. The only reason people occasionally recommend mineral oil is that for reasons partly unknown some synthetic oils do not agree with old fashioned push rod engines. Specifically the cams & cam followers suffer. It is sometimes blamed on the amount of friction modifiers in the synthetics & the large surface areas of the valve train components in push rod V8's. Old fashioned motors are a world away from your RB whatever. Use a good quality synthetic oil of appropriate viscosity & overfill it if you are going to the track.

I am sure that took quite a bit of effort. It demonstrates that you are a very strange man. or, to put it another way Effort large conform to taking. Personage for not ideal unstrangeness.

How about some of these.... http://store.yahoo.co.jp/mudjayson/suspjpn-bils-nissan.html Specifically: http://store.yahoo.co.jp/mudjayson/bps-jpn4.html

Thats only because it does. Basically lateral acceleration increase with the square of velocity. basically acceleration = velocity squared dvided by corner radius. So if you are doing, say 160km/h (44.4 metres per second) through Suzuka 140R you get: Acceleration = 44.4 squared/140 Acceleration = 14.1metres per second squared Acceleration = 1.438 gees. Same sum for 161km/h gives 1.456 gees. Finding 1.27% more grip is a MASSIVE gain in a race car. Which is why you need to bust your arse to do even 1kmk/h quicker through a corner than the next bloke. By the way the reason you can tell people are spanking themselves when talking about silly cornering speed is as follows. Say we are doing 1 minute laps of a 1 mile long circuit. This means we are doing 60mph, obviously. If we do 61 mph the lap time reduces to 59 seconds. So if some nugget tells you of a heroic speed through a corner you may suggest, in the words of Dave Allen: "Stop it or you'll go blind."

For the sake of the discussion the right hander follows the only left hand corner worth the name on the circuit. The left hander (Formerly Shell, now C-Red or X-force or something) is taken in 3rd (in a GT-R on R compounds) and you then turn right over the brow of the hill & hope the thing doesn't understeer too hard into the (unsighted) saw tooth kerbing on the exit. So yes, you can punch out of there at somewhere near 160. Which is massively different from 180. Which in turn is massively different from a car on road tyres or a drift car because at this point the thing is still pulling as many lateral gees as it can when the throttle is full open. Maybe it is just me, but as I have never seen the drift people use the long track (which the corner is a part of) I fail to see what difference it makes. Remember you need almost 25% more grip to take a corner at 200km/h as opposed to 180km/h. Finding 25% more grip by means other than bolting on stickier tyres & massive amounts of downforce is next to impossible.

My 10 cents. The number of tracks in Australia with corners that anyone in something without wings & slicks can enter as 200km/h can be counted in the fingers of one hand. Which is handy because far too many people are clearly using the other to spank themselves.

Hmm, how about because they cost a large lump of money & don't do a great deal to help your motor. Things to think about: 1. The most convincing reason to run a single throttle body is to allow a MAP sensor to work in a more stable airflow environment, ie allow it to work better. 2. If you are running AFM's the half the reason disappears. 3. What else can you do with the $1000 odd dollars? 4. As mentioned the closer the throttle butterfly(s) are to the motor itself the better the throttle response will be. 5. The Group A cars ran the manifold with out mods so how about "It was good enough to win three SATCC's & two Bathursts" as an argument? 6. I think bkc meant coherent rather than cogent. To ne a cogent reply would entail it having a persuasive argument in one direction rather than the more balanced approach that was taken.

Really, choosing an oil for hp gains is pointless. Even so the differences in the results for the different oils is only a couple kW in 200 odd. Which is to say within the margins of experimental error. Which is to say it makes NO WORTHWHILE difference. A fully synthetic oil will deposit less crap (technical term) in your motor than a semi synthetic & a mineral oil. That is why they are better. I used to run my old N/A motor on Shell Helix & you could eat your dinner off the damn thing. As turbo motors have heat stress issues much more than atmo motors (& therefore more issues with deposits) it is much more important to run good quality oil.

Could you do me a small favour. Measure up the wheelbase of the car before & after you wind all that caster in. just curious to see how much it changes. Also curious to see how long the upper wishbone bushes last....

I am clearly missing something here. I gave you the build number of a NISMO edition R32 GT-R in the other thread. They were the evolution model that the group A cars was officially based on. They had all the extra bits of spoilers/cut outs etc. If there is any difference between the part numbers for the front spoiler on that & the povvo pack GT-R it will show up. My thing has the slots in the front bumper. They are nothing special - you just need to trim the bumper to suit. Other than the holes the bumper is exactly the same. They aren't at all hard to put in as there is nothing behind the bumper on that location. If you want NISMO bling there are tonnes of other bits & pieces they make. Most of it is hideously expensive. In all honesty the Nismo add ons are nothing special in terms of quality. The extra spolier bits warp, distort & bend & generally look pretty awful after a few years. I have bought an after market replica of the rear lip spoiler on the back of how bloody terrible my Nismo item looks. Carbon fibre generally looks prettier than plastic in any case. As far as I know the only option you could get on your standard R32 GT-R were heated external mirrors....

Please don't take this the wrong way, but f^%k you city people do my head in. For anyone who lives in a regional area channel ten don't broadcast the F1. Win television do. What does that mean? Well for me atleast it means no digital commercial telly. It means fun broadcast times - like the Malaysian GP went to air at 1:40 on TUESDAY morning. I knew it was the Formula 1 because the telly guide had it listed as round 2 of the A1GP. When that Big Brother shite is on the F1 never gets shown until about 2.00am. So you have to turn of the radio on the way to work to avoid finding out who won the race. Lucky the West Australian newspaper thinks sports includes only football, horseracing & cricket. You would get Foxtel to make up the difference - except the satellite gives up the ghost every time it rains. Just great for a winter sport. And don't even get me started on GWN, football & V8's. Until this year I never even saw any of the Saturdays races. If it wasn't for the fact that I dont need to spend four hours a day stuck in traffic jams.... Gretal Kalleen. Mutton dressed up as hooker.

I am sorry, but I don't understand that at all.

To quote someone famous: Dont use AVGas. Just use a properly designed fuel like Sunoco, C16, Elf Turbomax and the others that dont come to mind If you do use decent fuel, you should be able to make 420-440rwkw with as much boost screwed in as you can Avgas is designed for aero engines that turn over at a low rpm setting at constant speeds for hours on end. Not for an RB26. Use the proper fuel as it will burn better & generate more horsepower.

Yes it works, but I would question whether or not it is actually worth the effort of putting in a double skinned pipe. It you do a quick calculation on the flow rate & then work out the heat transfer difference between the single & double pipes I suspect you will get pretty close to sod all difference. If you are worried about it (particularly where it goes over the radiator) just wrap it in tape. Also, by reversing the flow of the I/C you will be getting a larger pressure drop across the system. Simply because the hot gas goes further in your set up. Just some things to think about.

Psychic powers? Because the KBNR32RXFSLM2G build identifier is the same as for the early R32 Gt_R's The N1 editions had completely different sequences. There is NO DIFFERENCE between an N1 bar & that for a Nismo version. Apart from the slots & the intercooler mesh there is no difference between the N1 version & the ordinary GT-R. So why do you want/need an N1 version (not that there is such a thing?)