djr81

There are two fundamental problems with the "Hoon" legislation. 1. Our beloved state government(s - it is happening elsewhere too) are deliberately targetting (vilifying) car enthusiasts as a community. For every bogan doing a burnout in a Commode there will be some self righteous copper who wants to hassle people just because they happen to take pride in their car. 2. The penalties imposed are a very long way from being proportionate. Now I for one hate people doing burnouts. Frankly it gives me the shits. BUT, last I heard no one had ever been killed doing a burnout. Can anyone else offer up an example of an offense that carries with it the equivalent of a $25,000 fine? Lastly, for my 10 cents worth, I would refer everyone to the Lyrics from Frenzal Rhomb's song "Who'd be a cop?"

A turbo anything in a clubman amounts to a well scary ride. Best advice is to make sure you understand what the laws are in your state relating to home built cars. Also, it will take longer than you think. (always does) By the way, the photo is of the ex clubman motor after number 4 cylinder chucked a leg out of, um, both side of the bed & the sump aswell. If you look closely you can see right through the block.

The other suspect is tyres. I (once) had some el cheapo rears (mis)matched to some good fronts. Made the old dear oversteer like a cat on lino & also lock the back brakes. If you don't find anything untoward it might pay to chuck the old rear pads in. (Or atleast a set with a lower frction coefficient, DS2500 should be about 0.5, so try 0.45 or similar) Are you confident you bedded in the DS2500's properly?

Mmmm, where to start. Nitrogen is a denser gas. Um no it isn't. The major constituent of air is nitrogen. The second most common elements if Oxygen. Which is more dense than nitrogen, so... You don't need to check your pressure as it remains constant as it is not as affected by temp changes. Sorry, but nitrogen, like any gas held within a constant volume (like air, too) will increase in pressure when heated. Good salesmen at Bob Janes........

Well you can, but it takes a little bit of work... Have a look in the stickies section at the top as there is a post from Gary about how to work it all out. It will tell you what measurements to take of what bits of the springs. Second thing to do is to find out what brand gear you have. Then someone can help you track down what rates are available from that brand. Match the measured up with the catalogue & bingo, you ave an answer. Have a look in the groupbuy section for your particular car for the Whiteline gear. It is good stuff & will give you an indication of what to expect in terms of costing. Oh, in my humble opinion Pedders suck dogs bollocks, so don't go there.

Um, from the GT-R manual they are as follows: front: 2.4kg/mm on a 380mm ride height rear: 2.7kg/mm on a 380mm ride height Suprisingly soft, really. Most aftermarket springs use a stiffer front than rear - which can give you bad understeer unless you are careful about how you set them up.

As a start you need to find out what springs your car has been fitted with. They aren't stock, obviously. Many Japanese spring/shock packages run stupidly high spring rates. As a general guide a Skyline with stock suspension should ride reasonably well.

So what are you chasing?

What kind of a car are you chasing, Jamie? I ask because they sometimes need a third party compliance shop for cars they themselves don't have RAWS compliance for (Common practice) Wait varies, depending on all sorts of things (How hard the car is to find, shipping, how busy the shop is etc etc etc) The cost calculator you will find on their website is pretty accurate. Something you can't say for many others.... And Shaun, if you are going to use German, get yourself some umlauts. Please.

You are getting the RB74's at a really good price... You don't need RB74's for the back. Racebrakes usually just tell you to use a Bendix Ultimate pad or similar as the back brakes don't really do much & you don't need a pad that deals with high temps. If the friction coefficients of what you have matches the RB74's I would be very tempted to leave them alone. More important than pads is good fluid. So get some Motul RBF600 or equivalent.

Um, unless you are getting pineappled for the price of the DS2500's, they should only be $80 more than the RB74's or thereabouts. How much are you paying? You need to make sure that the friction coefficients of the front pads matched that of the rear pads. Understeer? No. What an imbalance can do is make either the front or rear brakes lock prematurely & degrade your overall braking performance. Dusty, yes. Harsh, no. (Compared to what?) If racebrakes recommend them they are probably pretty good.

Use the contacts on the PWR website. You should get a pretty quick response.

Ah, well maybe I have got myself confused aswell. Can anyone offer an opinion of what the y (vertical or load) axis on the PFC is, if not a MAP input. The horizontal (X) axis is clearly rpm.

What I mean is that the inputs to the Power FC (Not the Jetro version) include both the manifold pressure (This is the y axis on the maps) as well as inputs from the AFM's. So the system actually uses both. Most ECU's are more reliant on the MAP high up in the rev/load area of the maps than on the AFM's. Hope that makes sense.

That is the stupidest shit ive read today Yeah, but it is only early....

Too true. The main difference between an ECU that runs solely on the MAP sensor & one that uses the MAF (Actually Power FC uses a combination of MAF & MAP, so this is a fairly gross over simplification on my part) is that getting an engine to run well at idle & low TPS measurements is much easier using airflow meters than manifold pressure. The tune should get done quicker & be cheaper. An amazingly inept comment. Can you name a PNP ECU that will run both the motor & the auto trannie? Not the Power FC, but then no one with any sense would recommend and ECU install like that simply because it will destroy your transmission in pretty short order. People can also quite easily run data loggers, ensure that they are not running too much ignition advance use the peak/hold function on the display etc etc etc. Unless you are continuously modding your engine, you should only need a tune done once. Get it done properly. There is nothing inherently wrong with the Wolf.

You will most probably find you have to leave it with someone as when I needed mine done exchange master cylinders couldn't be found (last year sometime). Perth Brake Parts may be a good start.

Careful, it is not swing arm IRS. More like semi trailing arm IRS from memory.

ATTESSA takes input from rpm as well as wheel speed differentials as well as gees. Sit still, blip the throttle & you should see the gauge move. Means you get some front wheel drive action immediately on clutch dump...

Yeah, about that order. Depends on what kind of steel & its alloying content.

Coating was applied to the turbo dump pipe. Unsure what you mean about the direction of flow of the gas (right to left if that is what you are wondering) Have a look at the temperature of the flange metal. It is below the temperature of the RHS of the pipe, ie the dump pipe. Makes what you are saying impossible. WARNING: Science content (oh shit) For a two layered ie coating + metal system the steady state one dimensional heat equation looks like this: Q = (T0 - T2) ---------------------------- (delta X1/(k1A)) + (delta X2/k2A)) Where: Q = heat flow T0 is the internal temperature T2 is the external temperature Delta x1 & delta x2 is the thickness of the metal and the ceramic. k1 is the thermal conductivity of the internal metal and/or coating (whichever way around you arrange it, measured in W/mK k2 is the thermal conductivity of the external metal and/or coating (whichever way around you arrange it, measured in W/mK A is the surface area. For the anoraks this is simply an externion of Fourier's law. Salient points are: Doesn't matter if the coating is internal or external. For an individual layer the two fundamentally important variables are the k value, ie the thermal conductivity of the material & the thickness of the layer delta X. This is why I have made the point that with the thicknesses typically applied, the coating doesn't have any real chance of insulating the pipe. My old textbook (Janna) puts asbestos at 0.113W/mK and glass fibre at 0.035 which are two of the best insulators, although you can't use asbestos anymore for good reasons. To anyone using the heat wrap tape, please note the following: DON"T BREATH IT IN, PARTICULARLY AFTER IT HAS BEEN HEATED. You have been warned.

What I am saying is that in the thickness typically applied the product does not demonstrate any sustantial heat insulating properties. I have explained the photo & reasons for my opinion. However, in light of your eloquent reply I am at a loss to further explain anything.

Thanks, I enjoyed that immensely. :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: Infact I believe the expression is ROFLMAO or similar. Have a search for infra red thermometers. Look at the instructions. You will find that they DO NOT work on anything other than matt black surfaces... The coating was sold as heat insulation. Good insulators do not change their coefficient of thermal conductivity much with changes in temperature. My contention is that the coating is not effective, not because of anyshortcomings in the characteristics of the ceramic, but simply that the applied thicknesses are insufficient to create any meaningful resistance to the conductivity of the pipe.

Brakes are really hard to do unless you drive the car, but anyway. There are some possibilities: You have glazed the pads. You haven't got them hot enough, ie not bedded them in as yet. The heat paint should permanently change colour, from memory they all go white (although the middle one may go yellow, can't remember)

How many would you like? Five, ten, fifty, a hundred? The stuff claims to be a good insulator. The degree of temperature difference over the short length of pipe shows that the coating doesn't work. Why? The claim for the coating is that it is a good insulator. Dumping that amount of heat in that short a pipe shows that it is not effective. Why? The reason the stuff doesn't work is because of the thickness applied, not because of the properties of the ceramic. Assuming the coating is homogeneous (If it isn't it will delaminate & fall off) the number of coats is irrelevant. Ofcourse insulating thickness plays a part. We use 100, 150 & 200mm in heat insulating refractory bricks & castable refractory on pressure vessels & tanks etc. If we could just spray on a few thousand microns of ceramic that is what we would do - & save huge sums of money in the process. Consider this: Motherhood has been around for even longer. Motherhood has excellent child rearing benefits. I raise the two points because they are about as relevant... Good luck finding a supplier of this stuff that can provide good scientific facts, or any for that matter. You might want to ask what the coefficient of thermal conductivity is. Glass fibre is about 0.035W/mK. This ceramic stuff would have to be orders of magnitude better to work as advertised.