djr81

Mike, There is a post on this forum about the different RE55 compounds. Do a search under RE55. For Wanneroo I found the harder compound good, but they do need one to two laps to get them warm enough to grip well. Before that it is understeer city which kind of kills your speed coming onto pit straight. If hill climbs are your thing take a look at the softer compound. I have found most of those running in the local www.speedeventseries.com use RE55's. Guess that says something, not sure what. Added bonus of running proper R compound tyres is that your GT-R no longer feels like it is cornering on its door handles. Stiffer sidewalls make a huge difference.

Mike, I have recently done a not dissimilar thing, ie shopped around for R compound rubber. I have found that the Toyo R compounds in the smaller sizes are well priced & in larger sizes the Bridgestone RE55's are a $100 a corner cheaper than such brands as Dunlops, Yokohamas etc. Both brands grip well. My 255/40/17 RE55's cost me $380 each, whereas everything else was well into the high four hundred dollar mark.

Bump

Set of 17x9 Blitz 2 piece 10 spoke rims to suit an R32 GT-R.

Does anyone have any data from a GTECH RR version that they may wish to share. I have uploaded a couple of comparison plots to my gallery of some slow(ish) laps around Wanneroo by way of a starter. Also, am working on an excel spreadsheet to help interpret data is anyone is interested.

45 degrees. Assuming your timing sensor on the exhaust cam is set on the correct 20 BTDC mark the power FC timing will read total degrees BTDC, ie when it says 45 degrees it means 45 degrees.

Ok, thanks for that. Mine are about half way gone after a couple of track days. So I guess that ties in.

Can anyone pass comment on the life expectancy of a front pair of RB74 pads when used for circuit work? My front pads appear to have worn pretty damn quickly.

Thanks SK. What sort of pressure do you start with? I was led to believe 20 - 22 psi. From what I gather, in terms of wear, punishment handed out at the track is much worse than tooling around the suburbs. Certainly proved so for my last set of road tyres. It is 300kms to get there by the way. Another 300kms home. The joys of living in country WA I suppose. Maybe one day Pimm will come good on their promise & built the circuit in Bunbury. There again, maybe cops will fly.

Will be getting the SR compound because from home it is a 300kms to Wanneroo & 70ish kms up to Collie. Hence the track tyres still need to travel a bit. So the harder of the two compounds gets a guernsey. I am getting sorted for spare rims & road tyres, but a set of rims & tyres won't fit in the boot of the Skyline for getting to track days. Thanks for the info. Any tips on using the RE55's, pressures, roading them, warming them up etc?

Just bought some new Tyres (Bridgestone RE55's) for my R32. The bloke from the tyre shop rang & said they had fitted the wrong type of RE55. I asked him what the fcuk was going on and by way of an answer he said that there are apparently two compounds available. Can anyone confirm this?

Any help with the following is most welcome... I have some springs which I believe to be from an R32 GT-R. Can anyone confirm if the following dimensions are correct: Front Rising rate spring Free height 325mm, ie the spring height when taken out of the damper. Wire diameter: top 13mm, bottom 10mm Rear: Rising rate spring Free height 360mm Wire diameter 12mm Photos attached Even if anyone could confirm the wire diameteres I would be grateful.

Make it three for Motul RBF 600.

I have some springs which I believe to be from an R32 GT-R. Can anyone confirm if the following dimensions are cororect: Front Rising rate spring Free height 325mm Wire diameter: top 13mm, bottom 10mm Rear: Rising rate spring Free height 360mm Wire diameter 12mm Photos attached

32PSI cold... For those that want to do some circuit work you can (to a degree) dial in a lesser/greater amount of understeer/oversteer by changing the tyre pressures. To make the thing understeer drop the pressures are the front. To lessen understeer increase the front pressures. You should be able to easily detect a 2psi change tested back to back. Higher pressures will reduce a tyres slip angle - limited at the top end by the tread face crowning. Lower pressures will increase slip angle, but provide a better tractive force. Unfortunately low tyre pressures will kill your tyres quicker than most other things (burnouts aside) & cause problems running at high speed due to heat build up in the carcass. In short look after you tyres by keeping the pressures right (go buy a $10 gauge) & rotate them after any track days to equalise wear. The outside front after any track day will look pretty ordinary.

Fellas, Skyline oil pressure guages are well known for this problem. The best thing to do is to get it to a mechanic & get a proper gauge put on as a check. Failing that, replace the sender unit which, from memory, is located near the filter.

Um, it's not that complicated. The original Mitsubishi Magna was fitted with a 2.6 litre four cylinder, called an Astron II if memory serves. It was a dog of an engine: no grunt, no economy & no reliability. The only redeeming feature is that it is fitted with a pair of Lanchester balancer shafts (named for the famous engineer). The idea is that these shafts cancel out the second order harmonic vibration inherent in all four cylinder motors (also inherent in flat plane crank V8s as well eg the Ford DFV, but I digress). The point of the comparison was to suggest that an RB26DETT was pretty much the same as an Astron II. For further information on 1980's vintage Magnas please contact your local Mitsubishi dealer.

A conversation I had back in the day... Commode driver pointing to my GT-R: What size engine has it got. Me: 2.6 litres. Commode driver: Like a Magna you mean. Me: Yeah the same, just without the balance shafts.

Couldn't agree more. I get sick of seeing obviously tired cars presented as having low kms. This one is as honest an example as you would come across.

If people are worried by this they can go one better at the moment. There is an R32 GT-R in the Imports 101 work shop presently. It has had all the compliance work done on it, is ready to rego & is for sale. I think the ask is less than $25k & from viewing it, it is a very nice unit. This is probably the most pain free way of buying a GT-R presently.

No, the shipping was not pre paid. I don't know exactly how Danny arranged it, however it was very nearly put on the previous months ship until I asked for it to be sent at a later date. One of the advantages of working through a local broker is that the Japanese companies will look after their more regular customers (ie your local broker) before they will look after one off customers. This is fairly typical of the way all companies operate.

For what it is worth. Bought my R32 GT-R in November. Asked for it to be shipped to arrive in early January (to take advantage of the import duty reduction). It arrived in Perth on the 13th January - from Nagoya. I only paid for the shipping when I paid for the customs clearance. I bought it through Imports101 (Danny) & couldn't be happier with his service. Anyway, that's my 10c worth.

Danny is good value. He looks after you better & tries harder than most others. I have used his workshop previously & will be sending my R32 there as soon as it clears customs.......

Paul, Please put me down for one also.

Can anyone recommend a user friendly multi plate clutch for my R32 GTR? Presently it has a full face organic Xtreme HD single plate unit, but this will shortly run out of torque capacity. Is there a multi plate clutch than can deliver the same useability without all the rattling and savage bite that most multi plate clutches suffer from.