djr81

Pic of the Ohlins dampers - do they include springs etc?

Yeah I particularly liked the way he drove him straight off the road. Excellent race craft. Genius in fact.

To them it is a special order or something - hence the stuff around. The ridiculous thing is the $500 the yocals want for the damn things. Using a 324x30. Just wanting to know if anyone has used an 18mm pad on a 30 or a 32 rotor with a F40/F50 calliper. Someone must have tried it, knowingly or otherwise. Does the rear on an R35 have a wear sensor - I dont think it does?

Be realistic Roy, how do you jump a few places if you are on pole?

I am a bit neither here nor there about F3000. Like all the other lower formulae it doesnt demonstrate you can cut it in F1 - just that you may be competitive. Many of the F2/F3000 champions careers have spluttered out and conversely many of the lesser lights have gone on to shine. Look how Ricciardo has treated it. He doesnt really care anymore and didnt all this season near as I can tell.

I got this back from Zeckhausen. The DS2500 pads we carry for the Brembo F40/F50 is the FCP1281H, which has the sensor slot, but is 18mm thick. The 16mm version is special order and costs $254. So now I need to work out if the 18mm pad will fit a 30mm rotor/F40 calliper or I just fkd up last time I fitted pads and hadnt pushed the pistons all the way back. Of some note is the rotor on the Falcon is 32mm thick & they use a 16mm pad. I guess the questions is: will an 18mm pad fit? Perversely if you go through the part numbers the pad fits the rear of an R35.

Dude what is your navigator doing? Right six over crest, extreme caution, do not cut, falls away on exit into change the fkn damper setting into left six etc etc.

Cheers. Cant make sense of their pharken part numbers. 63-360-0810 ??? Guess an email is in order. Also see here: http://www.ferodoracing.com/catalogue/detail_car_racing.php?cat=brake_pads&code=FRP3028 http://www.ferodoracing.com/catalogue/detail_car_tuning.php?code=FDSR3028&cat=brake_pads Oh and it may pay to be carefull on the pad thickness. You can get 16 or 18mm. From memory the 16mm just fit on a 30mm rotor. The knowledgable cool kids look at my bucket of bolts and say stuff like V-spec 1, yeah? Sorry mate this one is the poverty pack. They assume the calliper is the stock Vspec jobbie.

Well good luck to them. Grosjean wasnt much of a chance really anyway.

Ah ok. damn. Not like the F50 is short on piston area anywway. Yeah the cool kids wont even talk to me anymore. Dont worry about the F40s Troy. They are being looked after.

Nah they are fine. I went the F40's because they matched the piston area of the Brembos from the 33's. They use the same pads as the BA Falcons with four pots Brembos so they are a good thing IMHO. I have often wondered if the Ex Falcon Brembos could be adopted for the front of the GT-R's - makes more sense than the Emo Brembo idea. Never really persued it as I had the callipers anyway. I probably have used it before. It was one of the things I had in my mind when looking for a calliper. Would have been a better photo if it had have been in focus. It was a case of more pad area, larger effective radius & more airflow (from the larger rotor size). Win, win, win. THe thing actually stops now and I dont destroy a set of pads every couple outings. Down side is I cannot find a reliable source in the States to import the Ferodo Ds2500 from - part number FRP3028H/FDSR3028 (without the cutout I thinK). I did briefly find one but they went bust. Cant remember where the delamination was to be frank. I would guess on the rear of the pad as logically that is where it would be the hottest.

To be honest the biggest difference I noticed was the SR2 were alot quieter. The old compound used to make a shed load of noise from 80km onwards. It is actually pretty hard to get a GTR to oversteer. One problem you can come across is on cold tyres when the front, because they work so much harder than the rears, get warm & sticky first. You can get some transient oversteer. But it usually goes away fairly quickly. Probably not an issue with a the classic as you tend to have a reasonable amount on. The rake thing is hard to impossible to get sorted out of the box. Be aware that the measurement usually used is from the centre of the wheel to the underside of the guard. The thing to keep in mind is the rear guard is lower than the front - even when the car is nose down. Neg camber can make a nonsense of any suggested measurements too.

Please dont get me wrong it will be better - but it is not going to be perfect by any means. I bought some second hand F40's with brackets. The gain from the basic R32 gear to that , even with a 324 rotor is a good one. The cost doesnt have to be huge either. Yes you may make a small gain - but the difference in pad size will only be a small one too. If you have a look at the photo I posted you will see where the smaller pad has broken up. I found this to be not uncommon at a track day - so I was paying again & again for pads. Some cheaper pads (no names, sorry) would, once they got too hot, lose their friction coefficient and nothing I could do would get it back.

You will find if you run a harder anti roll bar the amount of neg camber you have to run is less. The RE55 changed a few years back from SR to SR2 compound in the hards. Is that the discontinuity or are the SR2's on the way out also?

Try here & go to the reimax oil bits. http://www.greenline.jp They list different thicknesses & diameters. I am not at all sure the RHD Japan site is entirely correct in what they are saying. Maybe this is the same as the all pumps are now N1 rumour?

I would recommend the following: Front sway bar on full soft, rear on full hard. Wind as much neg camber into the front as you can. Set the castor so the tyre is in the middle of the guard. Run as much toe out at the front as you feel comfortable braking with & a little toe in at the rear (total 1mm from memory) Take as much out of the rear camber as you like ie less negative. Go and get some RE55's from Bridgestone tyres in Bentley (the motorsports distributors in WA) and use the Yokies to tie your yachtup with. Run less than 40psi hot. Try 36 & get a proper guage not some $5 special from Supercheap. Revolution racegear have the good longacre ones.

Um, is there? As far as I know (& I could be wrong) there are two different crank drives for the pump - the early R32 (Pre August 91 perhaps) being the least strong. The OD of the N1 & stock pumps is different the stock somewhat perversely being larger than the N1. I wasnt aware that the outside diameter of say a stock pump changed over the life of the RB26 but I could be wrong.

A week & 60 bucks is neither here nor there. Which pump do you have - the Reimax ones are for the stock & N1 pumps - different sizes for different pumps. By the sounds of it the local offering is for a stock pump?

There are two inherent problems with the Sumitomo calliper (for track work). 1. The calliper itself flexes under load - hence you will always have a mushy pedal - doesnt matter if you install a brake cylinder stopper and braided lines it wont entirely remove the problem. 2. The pad area (Dont worry about radius etc etc) is small. The photo below is of a pair of pads - one from an F40 and one from a Sumitomo calliper. The smaller size means more heat for the pad. I found a big difference in pad life between the two callipers - then another change when I swapped rims to a more open design (CE28 versus an old BLitz 2 piece). Another gain is from brake hoses/ducts. By the way anyone imported Ferodo DS2500's recently?

Amen to that. They are brilliant at turning petrol into noise. The old ones also turn some of the oil dumped through them into noise and stinky fumes aswell. Bonus. As for the rest of this thread it was stuffed when SK posted a bunch of half arguable "facts". But then people should never let the facts get in the way of a good internet trolling.

A small increase in od makes a big difference in the rate - probably of the order of 20% in this instance (A rough estimate). The Nismo items will be hollow. The steel grade has little to no influence on the spring rate.

It is not just bearings that can make this noise. Stuffed gears do it too. Check the oil for metal.

Yeah that is all fair enough. What any random scrutineer will choose to care about on any day is really up to them. The people who do the historic stuff particularly so. I just wouldnt want the bloke who started the thread to overly worry about stuff that once happened to someones mates uncles friends significant other.

Bring back the foot operated clutch I say.

What you want to stay away from are suspension packages (Chinese, Japanese or any other) that use high spring rates and have adjustable dampers. A good adjustable damper is worth the huge money if: A: You know what you are adjusting. B: The adjustability is linear, repeatable and there is little cross talk, ie a that a low speed rebound adjustment doesnt affect anything else for example. Unfortunately ANY adjustable damper that doesnt cost drug money fails to meet these tests. So a fixed damper is what you want. In anycase a damper without adjustment can handle a wide range of spring rates. So it is fine. Bilstein do nice dampers by the way. For the money they are excellent. The spring rates for the Nismo gear are fine for the track and for R compounds and will also do ok on the road. You will need to adjust the camber settings for track work, however.