46n2

If you have a clean record for 3 years (no speeding fines etc, parking fines dont count).. then you should contest any fines as you will most likely get a caution, presuming you write a real nice letter with a decent explanation of why you were speeding. Well of course you will probably only be able to get one caution, but its always worth contesting fines, gives you longer to pay at the worst. ~hellrazorette

Well I wasn't too keen on rebuilding it myself at the time, so I spent the money on a new cylinder, and just did all of the labour myself Still saved Pennies

I now have a 2nd hand Air / Fuel Gauge and it's not working properly (or maybe at all? ). Sorry for the long post, but any help appreciated Now working from the autometer installation guide, i believe that i have wired the whole thing up correctly. What i did detailed below: Should be connected to: The black wire to "a good engine ground" The red wire to + when ignition is turned on and the violet wire to the O2 sensor wire at the ECU. When testing with multimeter prior to connecting the gauge: The + and - wires sees 12V when ignition is turned to ACC or ON. This reads ~14V when the engine is running. Testing O2 Wire: The +ive probe on the O2 sensor wire at the ECU The -ive probe on a ground Multimeter reads 0.2V thru 1.0V when the car is turned on (which from looking at the autometer installation instructions seems correct). When only the POSITIVE and NEGATIVE wires are connected to the gauge, and the ignition is switched to ACC / ON only ONE LED is lit (on the RICH side of the gauge) - and it is very brightly lit. When the O2 sensor wire is hooked up to the gauge: And the ignition is switched to ACC: The first SIX lights on the gauge light up (from the LEAN side) And the ignition is switched to ON: The first NINE or TEN lights on the gauge light up (from the lean side). In both of the above instances, the LED's have different brightness levels (i.e. one bright, one kind of dimly lit, one bright, one halfway?) When the ENGINE IS STARTED, the gauge does the same thing and initially does not move. When the throttle is opened >80% the A/F signal should read RICH (according to the Autometer install guide) as the ECU ignores the signal coming in from the O2 Meter. when openning the throttle the a/f gauge did not move, and the same # of lights stayed on (approx NINE or TEN). After 2 or 3 minutes of the engine idling (and a couple of stabs on the throttle) the NINE or TEN or so LED's started to illuminate further towards the rich side, and by the time it had moved to te rich side some of the lean LED's had gone off. When removing the O2 signal wire the gauge goes back to showing 1 LED on th righ side. When re-testing the voltage coming through the O2 Wire still shows 0.2V-1.0V Please help. I've spent ages trying different gauge wire, and different power sources and grounds, and i've had no luck. Thanks Michael Please help

EDIT - Sorry Wrong Section. New post here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...287#post1137287 MODS please delete

that would be great! 14/30 days or something would be enough I should think.. doh! been logged out apparently -hellrazorette

lol...nice is troy's engine stripped down yet could be helpful lol Apparently the easiest way is to buy a brass T-Piece adaptor and tap the sensor for the standard oil pressure fitting. Problem is, to order such a piece, i need to know the thread length and size of where the pressure sensor fits into the block, and obviously the size of the temp sensor to be fitted (whihc i already have)... Anyways, anyone's help would be handy - thanks Michael

Ive run Motul 8100 for the last 3 or more changes. Found the response a little better than Mobil 1, but i have no idea about wear on bearings etc. I'm thinking of changing to Castrol Formula R (a lot thicker tho) to see how it goes.

Damn..if i had a garage like that I wouldn't be able to afford a car to put in it

...and if the wheel alignment doesn't sort you out you might need to look at adjustable camber bushes

and if the wheel alignment doesn't sort you out you might need to look at adjustable camber bushes

LMAO AE86 Bumblebee nice

Nice mate Can't wait until I can get out there too give it a bash (hopefully not into a wall ) Only 2 things bothered me about the day: 1) FLIES FLIES AND MORE FLIES :crazy:, and 2) an hour (or more) worth of burnouts and bikes... 46n2 46n2

oh and obviously before you pull it out you'll need to remove the panel with the globes in it

I've done this in my 32, and I can only assume it's not too different for a 33. You'll need to pull out the boot lining, and there are a few nuts on studs on the rear of the tail-lights - you'll need to remove these (I think that there were about 5 or 6 on my 32). Then the taillight can then be removed with a little force (not too much) to get past the sealant (something like sikaflex or similar). I don't know if it's necessary, but i had my rear bar off the car as i was doing some other work at the same time. Good luck, Hope that helps 46n2

Always interesting to see the long line of fixes for the same/similar problems Well i replaced the relay on sat arvo and drove out to Calder on Sunday and all seemed OK, but it did misfire here and there, but nowhere near as bad as before. But i did only replace the relay, not the plug (which was also corroded). I'll try replacing the plug tonight / tomorrow and see how goes I'll check the ECU Harness too Cheers 46n2

Hey People... Does anyone know where the relay for the fuel pump is in an R32?!?! Wiring diagram shows that between the ECU and fuel pump there is a relay and i need to know where this is asap please. Michael

Well I've had the immobiliser "Bypassed" and it stalled again when idling in the garage... With the help of a fellow SAU'er we quickly got into the boot with the mukltimeter and checked the voltage in the fuel pump wiring, and was reading 0.00 with ignition ON. Turned the ignition off and back on again, and i think it read 0.00 again, but the 3rd time it read ~12.0V. So definitely something dodgy going on with the wiring to the pump. Checking the wiring from the alarm / immobiliser, it looks as though only the ignition immobiliser circuit has been looped, and we had difficulty finding the 3rd point immobilisation. An interesting theory put forward was that if the 3rd point was installed in line with one of the other immobilisation circuits, and another relay was installed on the fuel pump line then this could be causing issues (there's already 1 relay installed when it came from the factory according to the Engine Manual). With the way it was explained to me (2 relays in line with each other) the "THEORY" made sense (step forward and explain away if you feel the need anonymous ), and it would also explain why I'm able to recover when i know it's happenning by pressing the accelerator pedal more. So a few questions for the poor lads who are having similar issues... 1. Do you have a 3 point immobiliser circuit installed in your cars? 2. Where (Physically) is the fuel pump relay (factory) located? Cheers guys... Michael

i'm planning on going sat, but based on past events (twilight drifts) i'm assuming that if there's rain it'll be called off : that and my 32's complaining again, and just doesn't wanna zoom happily

Sorry to Hijack basket case. hopefully we can both get our RB's sorted glad it's not just me... inark...I'll get my earth checked to my fuel pump (cause immobiliser was 3 point and included fuel pump). Don't know about Basket Case but mine stalls at random. Cruising along a highway, cruising down the street. Slow decelleration coming to lights. and just like basket case, sometimes it'll start again straight away, and other times it'll take 3 mins to crank over again

thanks lads... Sydneykid. 'scuse my ignorance but what's a leak down test? (*EDIT* cancel that, I overcame laziness and ran a search). VL-TRBO-RB20 yeah i've had that prob before. I took it to a place in brisbane and they didn't do up any of the hose clams (among other things) on the intake side and the car would overfuel like a mo-fo when i gassed it... If that's what u mean then it doesn't feel like the prob this time. 217/r33: Nah standard BOV. SAFC2 installed so if i get an aftermarket jobbie i that will correct it anyway shif_tea: thanks mate. I'll get a multimeter and check the resistance on the coils. 0.7 should read OK yeah? Anyone else have more i can try...It's a real pain in the arse I've cleaned the AFM plug (few wks back) but still happenning. Connection didn't really have any corrosion anyway.

I have EXACTLY the same thing happening to my RB20!! :confused: I thought that it might be a f**kup when my immobiliser was installed, but now i'm not so sure. My immobiliser gets bypassed this wk so i'll find out then... Gonna x-post this in the tech section for more coverage. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...656#post1105656

Sorry Lads, Guess the forum DB screwed things up for me.... I'm having probs same as basket case. Identical desc'n... I have a next to stock RB20 K&N M's Pod filter. Oil just changed Plugs new and gapped to 0.8 SAFC2 installed and tuned (but this was happenning before the SAFC went in). In my case it only seemed to start happening since the alarm went in, but since someone else is having the same troubl in an Rb i'm not so sure. The alarm is getting bypassed on Thursday to eliminate it from the list of possibilities. Any help appreciated. Michael X-POST...any help would be great pls http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=55512

koko at crown was pretty good too

well i guess now i'm signed up after a brithday pressie membership see how goes, but we'll try and make it

well roy keep friday clear perhaps. Birthday boozing. I have to try for at least one night on the weekend So is anyone going anymore??? (to Pie-land that is)