wrxhoon

Why do you want it out ? You should be able to undo it but the left side is a bit hard if you still have the airbox , you may have to remove it .

If it was gtr33r it's my old car !

no ,subtract from +55 offset 20 that gives you 35 ,your standard offset should be 38

Nissan , they are not cheap though. Is it a v-spec / Whats wrong with it ? does it work at all ?

What kind of car ? Usualy 2 little screws hold it in undo them and just pull it out , don't handle the globe .

20 mm it will give you 35 offset .

Next time you want to rebuild a donk let me know and i'll guide you to the right people . Anyway his standard prices are not that bad , try $ 120 for bore and hone ( any 6 cil ) rb 26 cil head service for under $300 including seting the valve clearences ( rb 25 $220 ) and the crank bloke will grind your 6 cil crank for about $150 . Most places would charge $6-7 k for a drive in drive out rb 26 rebuild with new pistons but using your old rods .

That would depend on what you have replaced Duncan . For instance if you use a new oil pump , water pump timing belt , tensioner and iddler pullies that would not be enough . When i did mine about 18 months ago , i replaced all the above plus pistons , rings , bearings and rebuilt the turbos ( new cores ) at garrets ( $1350) . Got the rebore , hone and crank reground and cil head done at mates rates ( all for $380 ). It still cost me around the $4 K mark and my free labour of course . If he gets it done for $2000 its dirt cheap .

$ 2000 wouldnt pay for the parts and machining ! Good luck if you get it done for that .

Be carefull the person that imported it should get that , it may have been imported as a race car only. Check the import papers .

It has a broken exhaust wheel as you are in Sydney comeand have a lookat it if you want it .

I havent seen a subaru with xenon lights in Australia , only in Japan , wich model subaru are you talking about ? Gtts and gtrs have the same xenon lights , you probably seen them after they have been converted to halogen and they install the blueish globes in them .

Yes they have silver caps on them , they dont remove them ( they are reflector lights not projector ) . You can see the base of the globe though if you look in there . If it looks like the one in the pic its halogen . You will find they pull the xenon globe out and install a halogen in the fitting , once they do that you cant reconvert cause they damage the fitting . If you take the light assembly out you will see there is no ballast there either , they cut the wires and take the balast out .

Mine has a lock on the glovebox , series II gtr .

Well i have seen gtss's with ar 60 compressor but i cant remember if they were for a gtr or sr20 . Mine are the little housings ar 42 thats for sure , i have them here .

Double sided tape maybe?

Of course they have the xenon writing on them , they can't remove that . They just change the globes and cut the balasts off so you cant reconvert them . If you look in front of the lights you can see the halogen globes . Xenons take a few seconds to light up when you first turn them on .

What do you mean ? They left the xenons? Under the new system they don't comply so they must convert them .

I did mine and i still have the kit that i made , converted xenon lights are crap .

$200 for the 2 ?

The series II have steel pedals( on gtrs , i don't know about gtts )and clear front and side blinkers . Gtrs have gone back to plastic radiator tanks in the series II ( alloy in S one ) , different oil cap on series II and darker rear glass .

I have a set in sydney , one with a broken wheel , If you are intersted make me an offer .

Your first post is a bit confusing , i thought you checked it on the loop at the rear. Pull the timing belt cover off and check to make sure all the marks line up .

If you ask any engine builder they will tell you to use mineral oil , some will use run in oil ( monograde ) . Ask any oil company and they will tell you the same , in the end its your call . Keep in mind while you are runing it in , don't idle for long periods of time , don't stay at the same rpm or load and don't rev it to the limit . Vary the speed and load as much as possible , short bursts of full throtle , she should be run in by the time you do 500-1000 k's . If you use mormal mineral oil ( not run in oil ) change it and the filter after 1000 km . If you use run in oil after 500 km .

A lot of timing lights wont work in the loom loop , unplug number one spark plug and fit your timing light there , that will give an accurate reading .