wrxhoon

I still dont recomend it for any car , i have a smaller one that i use on my jetski and it will start a car no worries . Its 2 years old now and still works very well on the ski , if it was in car though i would have problems . Why do you want a very small battery ? space ? if yes move it to the boot of the car , thats another advantage of the sealed battery.

They do but i dont recomend it as it will be to small and it may let you down .

There is one for sale in Sydney at the moment . Its bayside blue , the owner says its a 2001 nur spec , however its a 2000 v-spec II in good nick , the usual scrapes in the front lip and a dint in the rear carbon fibre defuser. About 10 k k's on the clock but in my opinion it has done about 50-60 k k's , front brake pads changed already and some other stuff that i could see indicate to me that its done 50 -60 . He is asking $85 k o.n.o. P.m for his number if you are interested , i have nothing to do with this car , i looked at it for a friend .

Thats the case with any alarm mate , if you know what you are doing you can start the car in seconds . I have a 02 sti with the brant keypad ( a pain in the ass i might add ) . Every time the battery gets low you have to go back to Suabaru to get a master code put in and the good thing about it has to go on a tilt tray . People are paying for the tow track $80- 150 + 45-60 to the suby dealer just for 2 minutes work . They wont give you the master code for obvious reasons . My battery went flat a few weeks ago and when it wouldnt accept the code i desided it was time to bypass it . It took me about 10 minutes to locate the unit and about 10 minutes to work out how to bypass it . Now that i know how its done i can do it in about 30 seconds , so much for the fantastic brant keypad system . I may add that the sti has another brant unit in it that is controlled by the subaru key ( a little button on it ) and a third one that comes with the car from japan . All very easy to bypass with a little know how .

To protect the local industry .

You wont see any oil around the seals if you do it would pour out and run on the ground . If they dont leak they should be dry and maybe some dirt caked on . Same with the crank seal , up to you if you want to replace them or not , just remember to replace crank seal you will have to do the same amount of work as you are doing now . Cam seals i can replace very easy with just taking the top cover off and the cam gears . Water pump is very easy to but you can only judge how old it is , from the pic it looks old but i cant tell . no one can tell how long a water pump will last , you may put it back and a couple weeks down the track starts leaking . To remove the crank gear you only havr to take the outer keyway out not the inner but you may need a gear puller ( 3 claw ). Dont be temtwd to hit with a hammer you will break the teeth .

Its the restrictor they put in for compliance , sometimes they fix it with sikaflex , the fuel melts it na then it leaks , common problem with most imports . You have to take the restrictor out and fix it with a fuel resistent substance .

It should have a little steel bit attached to it that bolts under the inlet plenum . Its a diff breather and the reason they bolt it high up is so no water goes in it .

Very hard to tell anything from pics , as a rule i replace both the tensioner and idler bearings ( i press them out and replace just bearings when possible , or if its very expensive to buy a complete assembly ) . The bearings should be quiet , if noisy replace . Check the bolt that holds the tensioner as well , if unsure replace cause they are known to break if overtighten , make sure you do it with a torque wrench . I would check the cam and crank seals as well , replace if the slightest sign of oil leak or sippage , they are very cheap . Water pumps , i usualy replace unless it looks like new , hard to tell form the pic .

Usualy they just come off once they come out that far , just pull the big bolt out and woble it off .

Did you pull the big bolt out ? if not its not going to come out . You only use the gear puller to pull a few mm then it should just come out but after it cracks loose you must pull the big bolt out ! Yea i'm in the hills area.

If the pulley is almost off as you say ( if it moved a little you should be able to pull it off by hand ) . its off . When you are ready to put it back you just sit it there and do the big bolt back on . If its rb 26 you will need heaps of torque ( 446-544 ntm ) rb20 + rb25 142-152 . I'm a little to far otherwise i would give you a hand to pull it off and put it back on . Do you have a workshop manual ? If you dont make sure you know how to time the belt and ajust the timing belt tension !!

Did you get the pulley off ? You must have a realy cheap gear puller !! Where in Sydney are you ?

The puller you have there should do the job . If you have a heat gun heat it up a little while you have tension on and it should come .

They can be very tight . You dont need to undo the big bolt more than 10-20mm . Are you sure you undid it 75 mm . At worse the little 6mm bolts will snap not the pulley .

Its very easy to wire them up , i made a kit for them as well , wire and plates for h1 globes .

Sorry mate can't do cause i have to have 5 orders to get that price .

Yoou are correct in your example and i know that i have paid it often enough . Now 21% is much closer to 20% than 25 % to me , i dont know about you or others . If you knew how it works why didnt you say 21% in your earlier post ? Or just say 10% +10% on top . By you saying 25 % people think its still 15% duty + 10 gst which we all know is wrong .

They are much cooler than halogens and use less power but produce a lot more light a bit like fluros do . Self clean is needed cause they say that when the lens are dirty they are not very effective . Self ajusting is needed so you dont blind other drivers when your car points high , speed humps or crests .

That was a long time ago , we had another group buy but the price was $140 . They all gone too but i can still get them for $140 each and we need to order 5 . If you are not in any great hurry i'm sure there will be more people that want them . Postage interstate is an extra $20 if you are not in Sydney .

15 % duty has gone for ever on cars and parts ( 10% ) as of 1st of january 2005 and it will reduce to 5% from january 2010 .

The voltage regulator is stuffed .

Where did you get 25% from ? Import duty is 10% and then add another 10% gst , thats nowhere near 25 % .

Your thinking of the wrong spacers ! You cant use them the studs are not that long so you can put spacers and then the wheels on . You can buy bolt on spacers and they have their own studs .

The 02 rexy has 14 psi stock boost !! Although 02 is the slowest of the late model rexes you need a fair bit of work to beat him . Stock 02 rexy and stock r33 the rexy will leave you for dead . You will need a power f/c , front mount and more boost just to keep up with him . Get a bigger turbo as well and then you will chop him for sure . If he wants to beat you then he will have to spend a few $ on bigger turbo and ecu , then it will all come down to traction , dont forget he has 4wd . 5 speed rexes have a weak gearbox though ( they pop second gear ) . So there you go and i speak from experience , i have owned a few rexes ( still have 02 sti ) and i have a couple gtrs as well , rexes are not a match for gtrs though .