The Bogan

Quick release and omp style wheel sold. Only the deep dish suede wheel left.

What I do and have never had a issue: 1.Turn on ignition and set the heater to max temp, do not start car 2.Remove radiator cap then remove lower bung from radiator draining all coolant 3.Turn off ignition 4.Replace lower bung on radiator 5.Fill radiator and overflow tank with fresh coolant 6.leaving the radiator cap off start the car ensuring the heater is still set at max temp (this stage removes any air trapped in the system) 7.Run engine topping up as needed until the coolant is hot (I wait for about 5 min) 8.Let the car cool then top up coolant and replace the radiator cap 9.Run up the car and go for a drive to get the car up to working temp 10.Let car cool and recheck coolant level (I push down on the top left of the radiator as it holds some air) Warning: A hot radiator will be under pressure and you will end up getting burnt if you attempt to open it when its hot. Sounds like common sense but Ive seen people open up a hot radiator and they usually end up with massive burns.

GSL RallySport

Sounds good too. I imagine it would sound like war on full song.

Buy another car thats been built, it will be cheaper.

NCOP11 Section LS Suspension and Steering V2 01Jan2011 [PDF: 1319 KB] 4.2.3 Clearance No part of the wheel must touch any part of the body, chassis, steering, braking system or suspension under any operating condition. To check this, the vehicle must be fully laden and capable of negotiating raised obstacles that would normally be encountered whilst driving such as speed humps and driveway entries. This test should be conducted from lock to lock without any part of the rim or tyre contacting any other part of the vehicle. Test weight for passengers is 68kg plus 15kg per person for luggage where luggage space is provided. Section LS Tyres, Rims, Suspension and Steering Version 2.0 – 1 January 2011 Page 21/LS85 The wheels must be contained within the bodywork , or mudguards (including flares) when the wheels are in the straight ahead position. Steering and/or suspension stops must not be modified to provide clearance for wheels.

LOL Your link was the one I posted up before, YOUR link states. The wheels must be contained within the bodywork, or mudguards (including flares) when the wheels are in the straight ahead position.

Build a old modern classic, new bikes are so common, if your not going to race it that is, if not be the coolest dude at the milkbar will a old slabside/katana/CB1100RR/Ducati 900 MHR/Kwaka Z My 2 Favs of all time, when my old 86 GSXR1100 was parked up no one would be looking at anything else. Not mine but the same. The Honda, well I didnt have the coin.

Well then how about a link to said docs, as during my engineering process this came up as well, all the information I have come up with states that you cannot have wheels or tyres outside the body line, this is also what my engineer said, but if you have some new relevant information that can be backed up by a legal document that the local (i.e NSW RTA for example) will use for compliance then I shall be proven wrong. Until then just saying Im wrong holds no weight.

Sorry but no. The wheels must be contained within the bodywork, or mudguards (including flares) when the wheels are in the straight ahead position. http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP11_Section_LS_Tyres_Suspension_Steering_V2_1Jan_2011%20v3.pdf http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx And the code is still in draft and live so it does not come into play legaly, your state authority guidelines are the ones you must comply with. Its a good read though.

Pulse regassed my aircon, after finding a leak in one of the lines and after pulling half the car apart to get to it. Excellent service and a good price for the amount of mucking around to get the pipe out which needed to be welded. +1 BE AWARE WHEN BUILDING DUMP PIPES TO ALLOW ROOM TO GET AIRCON REGASSING FITTING ON.

do you have a link to the code, as far as engineering a car goes they need to be inside.

The wheel and tyre must be contained within the body work or mudguards (including any flares) when the wheels are in the straight ahead position. http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/downloads/vsi/vsi09_rev4.pdf

High speed runs was not the problem, I went to the drags and got a 134 mph trap speed and it held fine. The problem is the spongy/soft rubber compond it is made from, as soon as it grounded it tore all of the RHS off and chewed out the rest, the top of it was still attached to the bumper, the lower section of it was dragging behind. There was only about 400mm of it on the LHS that survived unscathed. Be wary of any slightly steep driveways or inclines.

Update. Mine lasted 4 days before the stuff ripped to shreads going into a servo, it was double sided taped and screwed on. My cars ride height from the lower part of the bumper to the groubd was 160 mm, so not overly low. I did look good for 4 days though but served no other purpose as it was too flexible for any form of aero. A waste of money is my official opinion. I should have bought 6 pack with the money.

Boss sold. Buy the rest for $75

You gotta love mates rates.

Who through mate and what price. Mark

I too would like to know as mine has quit. Mark

Harness $80

All for $100

Orange jacket and cream trousers armed with a "sharp object" ....... sounds like a real psycho Is this the prick

You dont want 30mm hose, I think its about 22mm ID, but dont trust me on that, pull a hose off and measure it mate, the 30mm bits I was refering to was the vent filters on the catch can if you are running it to ATMO.Ive attached a pic of my can for referance.

Engine out is the only way I would do it, if your tapping or welding the head you will get swaff or other crap inside which will f**k your motor, sump must be removed and a fitting welded to the highest point on the cold side. Is oil spewing out? if not dont worry about a head drain/vent, if it is what restrictors are in the block and what oil pump are you using? If its just breathing a bit hard just get the cam cover vents sorted, 1 line for each vent and at least 2 30mm vents on the catch can. Hows the compression?

What is the car going to be used for, if your going to hit the track or the strip I would go for a nicely modded 33 as it will be well cheaper than a standard 34 and you will have cash to pay for tyres, brakes and other consumables, if you just want a daily then its what ever floats your boat. Me, even if it was a daily, I would get a good late model 33 that someone has spend a shit load of money on "sensible" mods, maybe a rebuilt motor with good service history and engineered, it would still end up cheaper than a good 34 but be a much better performance package for less.