The Bogan

Not shattered, enlightened. Mine pushing just over 500hp ATM on 98, all I need is bigger fuel system to run E85 for more powers. My new engine set up cost around 15k, that was a built 25/30 with a steam pipe exhaust manifold, turbo, Ross balancer and CAS, and some fabrication and tuning. BUT At 500hp the traction issues with a RWD become blatantly obvious, useless power is useless unless its a dyno queen. Remember though a well set up 500hp RWD car should do a high 10, or so Im lead to believe, mines run a 11.130 so there is hope. Think, plan, appraise, plan, do.

Built 25/30, TO4Z, E85, + all supporting mods ( brakes, diff, fuel setup, manifolds, fabrication, clutch, exhaust, stuff) 20k should do it. Or buy one built for less so you can keep your car for when the other one breaks.

On a side note the night is better off finished at 9 pm as the idiots doing burn outs on the return road leave bits of wire and other rubbish which can get stuck in or on your tyres, they do clean it up but from my experience (which isnt really alot) there is still crap left behind after them.. If you havent guessed I hate the rubbish cars that take up strip time and cover the return road in crap, the only good thing about them is the LOLS when they hit a wall.

Im under the impression that you dont want to idle car at all on initial start up, you need to load it up as soon as possible to ensure you get good piston ring and bore seal, if you dont load it up you will not get the "sweet piston ring/bore/hone seal" that is needed and you will lose any hope of getting it later as you will have worn down the hone. My boat was run in hard on the dyno then the next day it went to the drags, that was two years ago and its still going strong after a heap of track days/supersprints/drags. A old mate of mine use to race his bike (2 stroker) and he also rebuilt his engine, he would swap out the piston and ring and hone the bore, he would then thrash the hell out of it straight away, it never had a issue. Starting up cars/bikes/any motor because "its been sitting for a while" is the worst thing you can do to a motor, you can prep them for long stints of inactivity which will be 100 x better.

Last chance to do some runs before SAU NATS Post up if your going. The weather forcast is looking good. Wednesday 14 November Summary Min 15 Max 24 Partly cloudy. Sydney area Partly cloudy. Light winds becoming easterly 15 to 20 km/h during the day. http://www.wsid.com.au/?m=events&a=event_page&id=150 Ill be there from around 1730. Be there or be square.

Compression test would be my first port of call, could be tolerances maybe ????????/

When to tank releases the pressure it will drop down but due to the small hose/line trying to fill it it will not repressurize or hold a standard pressure.

1) The odometers have ALL been clocked back, I replaced everything so point is mute 2) Insurance is a dog, If you want something fast pay for it 3) Car thieves LOVE these cars, Security 4) They've all been thrashed hard, Not as hard as Im thrashing mine 5) They're old and hard to re-sell, Not interested in selling, I would part it out it if I didnt want it any more. 6) Cops will pull you over to try and give you a yellow sticker everywhere you go, Not me, mines engineered and Im old, and I also dont have shiny wheels, stupid useless body kit, or break the road rules, I track it or go to the drags like grown ups do. I got mine because I wanted a sporty 2 door. I modded mine mine because I wanted it to go fast and go around corners. As for price and insurance, who cares, I dont, if you want something fast pay for it, if not by a Falcodoore or Camry.

It seems I am paying for it according to my electricity bill

Fingers crossed

I got a big roll of the stuff that was going to get binned because no one could find a use for it. Grab a couple of meters if you want, the roll is .900 x 20 mtr.

Ive been a bit scared off with the sensor, Ive heard (google farkin) there has been a bad batch of them giving iffy readings, Ill give it 12 months and if it seems that the issues are sorted then Ill go in balls and all. All I need is the sensor thingie, injectors, fuel pumps, lines and tune, and around 3-4k of loose change. And I still need to get the Link tuned for PSI Vs road speed, gotta love the Link.

Tyres = M/T Street Radials E85= When Caltex (or any other supplier) have it in every servo, like they said they would in 2010

This is true. On a side note, I dont think I will have time (read:UNIGROUP) to hook up launch control, so all the cheater AWD vehicles may have a slight advantage at the NATS. Im drunk, punch me in the face, I deserve it................... Horse power is how hard you hit the wall. Torque is how far you drag it behind you.

Ill be rolling down early Sat morning (stupid work), leaving at around 0500 (breaky at chew and spew at Sutton Forest on the way), Im only doing the airport run (unless I can convince the missus that the SnS is more important than the gardening (lolololololosssss)). See you guys on the road or at the event/s. Ill be bringing some clear contact adhesive for the rear guards (and front guards for cheaters) if anyone needs some, in case of lots of gravel/stones. Im expecting coupious amounts of skids, lols and fun for all. BRING IT ON

If it was silver and had the guards punched in I would think it was my "Das Boot"

Yummy yummy

But where, my good man, are your bishes ???

11.130 @ 130.45mph, 1.779 60ft Camber was 0.5 deg positive with 0 toe 12 psi in the tyres So far so good, only had 2 runs tonight as I blew a cooler hose near the turbo, it was to hot and to much bother to try and fix it there. Next week Im hoping for even better.

bugger, I blew a silicon pipe near the turbo, to hot to fix. lots of monsters here though.

So far, 11.130 @ 130.34 mph, 1.779 60 ft. Do close to the 10.99999999

Look at a radiator filter while your getting it ready, after my rebuild it caught a fair bit or sealants and other crap, even after the chemical clean it still collects bits of crud that would have other wise gone through the water pump and maybe got stuck in the radiator. TEFBA Radiator / Cooling system Filters Like dis > http://www.ebay.com....=item20bddab6b4 Disclaimer: The RB30 that went into my boat was probably 30 yrs old and no matter how much cleaning you get done it will not remove all the old broken down rusty crap that has had that time to build up inside its cooling system, which it seems, is quite alot. P.S. Numbers Farkern

Ive had thia issue with my Falcodoore, every time I try and go fast it seems like something is holding it back, I even installed a Chevy badge on it to try and improve responce but to no avail. Mod list is: chrome floor mats Racing seat style padded seat covers 22" chrome rims on the front with chashers on the rear A METAL MULLISHA stiker covering the rear windscreen Std exhaust with a hole cut into the rear box Chevy badge Do you think it could be fixed by fitting up some neons?

Good day guys, all I need now is a 3.4 stroker crank and a neo head and the boat can re to 10,000rpm. That and a fuel upgrade and the other associated bits and pieces that would be needed. Twas a very informative time. That little gremlin was a angry little thing.

Wednesday 31 October Summary Min 17 Max 29 Mostly sunny. Sydney area Mostly sunny. Light winds becoming northwest to northeasterly 20 to 30 km/h during the day.