The Bogan

Thankyou for clarify this issue, its good when a subject matter expert helps out a newbie with a quick and to the point explanation, its good to see them help people with their wealth of technical know how, I would say its even good for business.

Not enough black Looks good though But not enough black Do you have a build thread ?

A yes with a reason and I shall never be seen in this thread again. A no with a reason and I still wont be here again because I have said what I believe to be correct due to many hours of searching and my own prior research on spark plugs and correct gap sizes. .

I know this topic has been done to death but if you find my method flawed please enlighten me as I am always open to opinions that may prove me wrong. I may be old but Im still open to some learning.

Iridiums will still lose some effency after 10-20,000 klm. If you service your car every 5,000 klm put in fresh coppers every second service, on every other service pull the plugs and clean the electrodes with some fine emery paper and regap. I have always done this and never had a problem even running 380 @ 22 psi. Iridiums are designed for lazy people who do not service their own car, the less plug changes over the 100,000 saves some money but will effect performance. I want all my killer wasps all the time. The $30 or $40 dollars every 10,000 klm makes good performance sense to me.

Car cleaned, serviced and packed, already, Im not heading down till around 0430 Sat morning though, but then Im a big fan of: Prior Preperation Prevents Piss Poor Performance Plus the missus is at the shops getting her hair done so Im at home alone "getting my shit done" whilst drinking beer. At least she told me she was getting her hair done ???????? Who cares, Im going boosting on Saturday and then filling my gut with dead animals whilst drinking beer and talking car shit in the evening, I call that a win win win win situation.

My old 380 killerwasp boat with standard size DBA 4000 rotors and A1RM pads were good for about 10 minutes of circuit duties, any more than that and they started to go off quit quickly . My vote is still the packaging protecting coating or oil residue from installation was not cleaned of and it has got into the pads. After a big oil down I had a while ago the front rotors got some oil on them and they went to shit and had to be replaced. Either that or the bleeding/flushing process was flawed., how old was the fluid and was it sealed prior to use or had the bottle been open for a while.

If you go to a fixture specialist shop for your nuts and bolts they will cost you you about 30 cents each, m5 x 10.

I take it that no prizes were ever given out.

Even on the lowest stetting I was still getting around 130psi (9 bar) from it, thats why I had to get the regulator installed which bleeds of the extra pressure with a return line to the sump.. Now it sits at around 100 psi (7 bar) @ 7000rpm, seems fine, at least I hope that it is, quite a few track days and some drag racing later and the bearings are still where they are meant to be anyway. Anyone know what the max psi that should be run ???? On a side note Im heading out to UNIGROUP this arvo to pick up a new 1mm restrictor, if your cars running and you need me to do some rev limiter bashing hellies in it just let me know......

MLR was here. Regulator ? Like mine ? We could be like brothers that look nothing like each other but have the same demon pressure oil pumps. .......

People in a range of $200 shit boxs doing skids till the tyres blow, or the engines blow leaving oil and coolant down on the skid pan at the end of the return road, but do they stop there, hell no, they keep cooking them till the tyres come of the rims and leave debris and fluids everywhere. The guys try and clean it up but bits of wire and shit from the tyres get stuck on the surface which then get stuck on my/everyones hot sticky tyres. The monkeys get about half a hour to do this which eats into about 60 runs per lane. So 120 people miss out on runs because 4 or 5 $200 cars want to impress the people with there awsesome skills at doing lame skids in crap old bombs. As I stated before, the only highlight is when they hit a wall. Anyways, if I get there early I usually get 5 or 6 runs in before its "STOP, MONKEY TIME"

Have talked about this but the logistics is a PITA, does it get tuned boost/road speed for the drag radials or the semi slicks or the road tyres. To be honest its only the drag radials or semis that get a flogging but the traction difference between the two is fairly large. The drag radials on a prepped strip are near perfect for the boost, the semis could do with some more work in this area though, but the poor old Hankooks Ventus RS3 street tyres though are in trouble everywhere under the top of third. For a all rounder the tuning does suffer a bit due to the different amounts of traction for different disiplines, if it was street or track only the issues would be easly fixed, but alas Im trying to do three things with the one car. Is fun though.

Did you clean the rotors with brake clean before instalation, mine had a heap of protective "stuff" on them which needs to be cleaned off. If that stuff has got into the pad it will wreck them fairly soon I believe. As with most things it is possible that Im totaly wrong !!!!!!

http://www.lewisengines.com.au/category9_1.htm

Explain point please

Put 215,s on it and dont worry about rebuild, as I stated, useless power is useless.

Not shattered, enlightened. Mine pushing just over 500hp ATM on 98, all I need is bigger fuel system to run E85 for more powers. My new engine set up cost around 15k, that was a built 25/30 with a steam pipe exhaust manifold, turbo, Ross balancer and CAS, and some fabrication and tuning. BUT At 500hp the traction issues with a RWD become blatantly obvious, useless power is useless unless its a dyno queen. Remember though a well set up 500hp RWD car should do a high 10, or so Im lead to believe, mines run a 11.130 so there is hope. Think, plan, appraise, plan, do.

Built 25/30, TO4Z, E85, + all supporting mods ( brakes, diff, fuel setup, manifolds, fabrication, clutch, exhaust, stuff) 20k should do it. Or buy one built for less so you can keep your car for when the other one breaks.

On a side note the night is better off finished at 9 pm as the idiots doing burn outs on the return road leave bits of wire and other rubbish which can get stuck in or on your tyres, they do clean it up but from my experience (which isnt really alot) there is still crap left behind after them.. If you havent guessed I hate the rubbish cars that take up strip time and cover the return road in crap, the only good thing about them is the LOLS when they hit a wall.

Im under the impression that you dont want to idle car at all on initial start up, you need to load it up as soon as possible to ensure you get good piston ring and bore seal, if you dont load it up you will not get the "sweet piston ring/bore/hone seal" that is needed and you will lose any hope of getting it later as you will have worn down the hone. My boat was run in hard on the dyno then the next day it went to the drags, that was two years ago and its still going strong after a heap of track days/supersprints/drags. A old mate of mine use to race his bike (2 stroker) and he also rebuilt his engine, he would swap out the piston and ring and hone the bore, he would then thrash the hell out of it straight away, it never had a issue. Starting up cars/bikes/any motor because "its been sitting for a while" is the worst thing you can do to a motor, you can prep them for long stints of inactivity which will be 100 x better.

Last chance to do some runs before SAU NATS Post up if your going. The weather forcast is looking good. Wednesday 14 November Summary Min 15 Max 24 Partly cloudy. Sydney area Partly cloudy. Light winds becoming easterly 15 to 20 km/h during the day. http://www.wsid.com.au/?m=events&a=event_page&id=150 Ill be there from around 1730. Be there or be square.

Compression test would be my first port of call, could be tolerances maybe ????????/

When to tank releases the pressure it will drop down but due to the small hose/line trying to fill it it will not repressurize or hold a standard pressure.