slippylotion

More info on said switch in brake line please.

59k and all genuine as I imported it myself and have de-reg cert for it. Only had it for a couple days so no problems as yet.

I'm keen to bring our new M35 on the 25th. The new wheels should be here by then.

The other spacers are 19mm so even less chance of fitting. If they are 15mm it might fit the cover but then might not give the same torque gain.

Fitted a 17mm plenum spacer today that I bought from Ryan. Nice and easy to fit although missing 1 of the long bolts and didnt have any washers for the replacement bolts, quick trip to coventry fastners fixed that. It needed washers as the bolts bottomed out before they made contact with manifold. Tried to keep the engine cover but no luck. I could fit all 4 bolts on the cover but when you close the bonnet it just touches the felt and leaves an indent. I then gently pushed on the outside of the bonnet while closed and can feel it's sitting hard up on the cover. This means the felt will wear holes in it and if the engine moved enough possibly put a small bulge in the bonnet. Otherwise feels like a nice little increase in torque down low so very happy with the result.

E10 100oct is now back in stock at United servo pooraka. Been waiting a couple months for it. I'm running it in our M35 and now I can use high boost setting in my 180sx now that it's back.

So the same as mine. My aero front bar is 130-135mm off the deck. I wouldn't mind it 10mm lower but the front arms already have a slight upward angle on them, not really keen to increase that as steering and handling start to suffer a too much.

Daleo, what are your hub to guard height measurements ?

Not sure what you mean here. My rear is higher than the front. Don't look at wheel arch measurements, look at the sill panel, this is the level line of the car. Wheel arches front to back are often not the same height. How will the spring move around when they are captured?

Part number please

Im sure this is the car that is owned by a crash shop guy around the corner from my work. I see it every day at his crash shop as Im going to work, then a few weeks agoI seen it sitting there looking like this.

Measuring from the sill panel, mine is 30-35mm higher at the rear than the front. Its hard to tell by eye that it has 30-35mm of rake now. IMO it sits nicely. I might adjust it slightly when the new wheels arrive, this will depend on what tyre sizes I end up using. When I was younger and into Valiants we would run the rear lower than the front and it understeers badly. And out of interest, how many of you guys loosen all of your suspension arms and preload the hub and then tighten it all back up when lowering a car? I always do this as it takes the twist out of bushes. If you don't do this it twist the bushes quite a lot. A lot of people don't do this and then wonder why the bushes wear out quickly.

Had to raise the sus today as the heights were at F 335, R 330. Now they are at F 350, R 345. Looks a tad more sensible now. Also bought a plenum spacer from Bigkevracer, hope to have it fitted ASAP.

Rex Kelway sells s/steel dump pipes for $380. PM me if you need more details.

Well, I decided I would fit the coil overs today. The stock sus was in very good condition but these Tanabe coil overs ride sooooo much nicer. Not hard at all, nearly the same as standard but just ride the bumps a little nicer. It does sit fairly low with the guards sitting level with the tyres. Looks awesome! Ill try and post a pic over the weekend for those interested.

I like to think of it as being organised. I ordered the wheels for it the same day I won the car at auction I even bought the Tananbe sus before I bought the car

Thanks guy's. I just felt as though people did think you are some sort of mong for changing at 5k. I do it because I feel more comfortable and I do it with my 180SX pushing 270rwkw. I like to treat all my cars the same so the new M35 will also be changed at 5k intervals.

i picked up out NM35 Stagea from the compliance shop yesterday, registered and ready to go! With a day off today Im trying to decide if I should fit the Tanabe sus (at home on stands) or wait until next week so I can get it on my mates hoist. Overall just excited to have it and start some work on it.

Not having a go at you. More so at iamhe77 for pretty much discounting everyone else's opinion." If wondering about service intervals, see Iain and Craig's responses" I thought these tech forums is somewhere we can share our thoughts, knowledge and experiences, be them good or bad.

As they are the only guys that know anything??? Im out!

Don't forget that some manufacturers also add interval changes for city use , giving you 7500km. I know for a fact my brother doesn't service his at 15k intervals. Anyway, all the engines I've built for myself have had oil changed at 5000km intervals and very clean inside with no oil flush used. I'd prefer to spend a bit more on more frequent changes to keep it clean.

The new cars I have seen have changes at 7500 intervals. Im sure my parents ford territory and brothers xr6 turbo run these intervals. I'll stick to my 5000 km intervals. Also not a fan of oil flush. I havent heard of dealers using them and if I did, to me, the oil just needs changing more often to avoid any sludge build up. Oils these days have good detergents so when changed at correct intervals you shouldnt need to use oil flush. Water temp maybe 82deg but I would have thought the oil and water running through a turbo would spike the temps until cooled again. Just thinking out loud.

I understand an import is no different to any other car. I look at it like this. Newer engines run a lot tighter clearances than older engines and also newer engines run a higher water temp as standard, most NA petrol engines run at just over 100deg C compared to our 82ish. The higher water temps helps with fuel economy. I would assume that will translate to the oil working a little bit harder. Then chuck in the extra temp from a turbo and bam! I therefore change every 5000km.

Most manufactures still do oil and filter at 7500km intervals. In a turbo engine I wouldn't go longer than 5000km even with a quality oil and a quality oil is what you should run regardless!

your best option will be yahoo auctions via Steeter.