tridentt150v

Something 'one off bench' tests don't take into account. When deciding, you have to also take into account the oil contaminating the AFM sensor. Dry filters don't do this, wet/oil type filters will do it. Even if you only oil lightly and correctly, some can still eventually get sucked through. And no filter lasts forever, regular cleaning and routine replacement are essential.

$6 million dollar question......... The attraction of HKS is they often [not always] offer packages. That is turbo, dump, oil/water hoses and fittings, bolt up nothing else required. Experience tells you that there will always be something they don't have in a kit, but essentially its a simple install. HKS are much dearer initially because they are a kit, and they are HKS. Garrett turbo's are just that........a turbo in a box. You can then set about organising your own [usually custom or second hand] dump/front, intake, and oil and water lines. Garrett are very cheap [for what you get] initially, but end up costing nearly as much and take a bit longer to install as you make things on the fly. They are much more expensive if you get someone else to do the work. I went with the garrett, but sometimes during the install wished I'd bought a HKS [when I was waiting on a part or something wouldn't work right]. HKS are generally thought to have slightly better performance figures, but it's hard to actually prove.

Only problem with that thought is you need tags or face being dobbed in and paying huge fines for shooting a protected species [yes, 'roo's are protected]. Don't get me wrong, I'd like to see the grey culled heaps, especially in the national parks and state rec area's etc where they are taking over.

As someone once said "Go west young man", eastern/western grey's are every where out west, I've seen plagues of them from Deni/Hay/Balranald to Bourke/Wilcannia/Nyngan. I actually feel for the red and the blue flyer, I reckon they are being eaten out of existance by the grey. The only way we can add balance to the wallaby/wallaroo/red etc is to cull the grey to give the others half a chance.

What I don't get is if they intend relocating them, to where? What idiot wants 500 eastern greys? Answer = nobody!!! What they should do is microchip the roo's and then give each Pro Roo protester 10 each for their back yard - now that I'd like to see.

Just about eliminated fuel and spark: Only other thing........have you tried tuning it without an air filter, is there any improvement? An apexi power unit should be OK. Otherwise, the simple things are pretty much all used up and you'll have to listen to the doomsayers.

I would have said a dodgey FPR, but you say that the fuel pressure has been checked. Is your Z32 a real one?

you get what you pay for, but any brand name belt would be OK, not saying that yum cha specials are no good, but they have no reputation.........

creek

When you swapped actuators, how did you set the boost level? It sort of sounds like your miss problem is seperate to the flap hitting. If the flap only hits when it is already fairly wide open then it may not be the reason for your miss. High revs on cold mornings with dense air and better cooling means better boost.

if you mean that your wastegate valve hits the dump pipe flange on the inside, then use a grinder and mod the dump so that it has clearance.

probably temp gauge sensor, if your running an evc then the hose connects to it, otherwise to pipe

Power delivery can be the defining factor. My previous turbo set up made 240rwkw and it would break loose in 1st and 2nd too easily, and in the wet was a handful. Now I make 290 and the difference is brilliant. The power is a bit higher, but the delivery is much more progressive, so I can control it that much better. Not saying suspension doesn't have a part to play, it definitely does, it is the combination of the whole package that ultimately determines a vehicles driveability. OOohh and a button clutch is murder on uphill starts on wet days - god I hate those traffic light types, just waiting for the 'tap on the shoulder' from the porkers as I spin away!!

Clyde

rb25, iridium, 0.8mm, 17psi, 290rwkw

Who actually did the test? if it's not done correctly you can get sh1t results. ie car should be warm If results are still the same, squirt a bit of heavy oil down one of the cylinders and try again, if results are better then its rings, if results are still poor its valves and guides [and probably rings as well].

retread

Petersen

You need to do a search on the net and see what: 1. Cams 2. Cam pulley wheels/gears are and how they work. try 'How Stuff Works'.

x3 HKS cast low mount - the ONLY true low mount [std manifolds are side mount, not low mount!!!!]

Sounds like spark issues, maybe gap your plugs down to say 0.8mm....but your tune is not coping with the extra boost provided by the fmic. Just make sure your not getting det, cos you will destroy that motor. You need a tuner, buy a magazine and look for ads...........

3lit3 is correct, but decel will vacuum suck oil in from a few places, even up past the oil control rings in the bore [although rings usually also smoke after an idle period then accel]. I think you need to determine if the white smoke is oil or water/coolant as well, this could help you determine where to look.

hunger

I was told [note not me, but told] that the stock BOV will not cleanly handle the extra flow. But there are several shops that will mod your std BOV so that it can, mine was done when I installed the GT3076. Its no bling bling bright thing, it looks bog stock [which I think is good], but so far it has worked. And the mod didn't cost the $400 a HKS/Greddy etc BOV costs [it may not sound as good either, but I DGAF about sound]. Others on here may have different idea's.

and budget for a fmic and ecu to get anything out of your new turbo